old-tank
-
Posts
7,829 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
24
Content Type
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by old-tank
-
-
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> not to be sarcastic, but the buick crowd has one foot in the grave and the other right behind it </div></div>
If you're talking about me get your description right: "one foot in the grave and one on a banana peel"
I've been accused of a lot the things but snobbish is not one of them.
I've not been accused of being nice to a first time poster that insults my (Buick) family.
Willie
-
Willis
I tried the fork oil about 8 years ago and the car rode like a truck and broke one of the shock links on the end. I used the 'standard' oil instead of the 'racing' that was also available at the Harley store. It was much more expensive than jack oil and more viscous. Maybe if a rebuilder changed the valving to match fork oil, it might work. As far as foaming, if the unit is at the normal fill level with no leaks there will be no air to contribute to foam production. Maybe other lever shocks will like fork oil, but 55 Buick Century rear shocks do not like it.
Willie
-
Kanter will not provide a picture or weight of the drums. Now I have to add another name to the list of people who [censored] me off...
Anyhow it is back together, just used the best of what I had on hand: rears are 0.090 oversize and fronts are 0.060 oversize.
Willie
-
Dan
Use any hydraulic jack oil. No need to buy the expensive specialty stuff. I still have an old can of Permatex jack oil that says to use in shocks also. I have used this to top off and for complete refill after a rebuild and it works well.
Willie
-
Dan
I thought that the service manual had this procedure, but I could not find it either.
Anyhow try this: Remove the drivers side front wheel to access the bolts that attach the steering gear to the frame. For the adjustment the steering column pivots on the lower front bolt; the other 3 are in slotted holes in the frame. Loosen but don't remove all 4 bolts. Then go to where the steering column attaches to the dash and loosen but don't remove the nuts on the horizontal bolts (the ones that are parallel to the steering column); these too are in slots in the bracket.
This is any easy adjustment on a new assembly, but may require some struggle with 51 year old crud. When statisfied tighten the frame bolts first so there is no bind on the steering column jacket.
When I got my second Century 4dr hardtop I kept bumping my head on the roof and my legs had very little room under the steering wheel. In addition to the steering column being adjusted all the way down, the seat was mounted on 1 inch blocks of wood. My wife liked it that way. I have since removed the blocks and later put in the 4-way power seat and that raised the seat higher than the wood blocks...the blocks are easier and cheaper...
Willie
-
Update: I finally got off my dead a** and braved 100* heat, wasps, scorpions and spiders and pulled 4 front wheels from 2 parts cars with wheels, drums/hubs as a unit (the brake shoes as usual were glued to the drums and leaving the wheel on gives me something to attach a chain to so I can pull it off with my truck). Anyhow after measuring I found one to be right on 12" (no oversize) and one at 0.060" oversize. That was good news until I detached the wheels and found that the one that was 12" was an aftermarket replacement drum that weighed only a fraction of the stock drums and had considerably less "meat". Bummer...I would try these lightweight drums if I had a pair. So now I will call Kanter tomorrow and see if they can provide a picture and weight of their drums. Right now I would rather go with up to 0.090" oversize stock drums than some lightweight units.
Willie
-
To me there is nothing more fun than coaxing a long sleeping engine back to life...it overwhelms all of your senses even taste. I think that Bill put "enough" trans fluid in the cylinders...I got a good taste ( but it did not hit me in the face )
Willie
...nobody bleedin' bad either.
-
RocketDude
Thanks for your input. This is a Buick and there are no studs, the wheel is attached to the drum/hub by bolts. The drum is attached to the hub by rivets, one of which is a locating pin for the wheel. I can grind and/or drill out the rivets, but I wonder what to replace them with.
Willie
-
I am replacing the brake shoes on my 55 Century and had the drums checked for turning. Seems that they are all 0.090 to 0.130 oversize now. The 55 service manual says that 0.060 oversize is the maximum allowable. The brake shop owner (in his 70's) says that the old drums could be turned up to 0.090 oversize. The car was stopping well before and even locked the wheels in a panic stop on my last road trip. I guess ignorance is bliss because now I am worried. Kanter has new drums at $135 a pop, but not including the hub for the front ones.
Does anyone have any info or opinions on over size drums and has anyone replaced the drum on a front hub?
Willie
-
Tom
I'm glad you found what you needed. Anyone else interested in this gasket before I put it back in my pile of excess gaskets?
Willie
-
If you reuse the steel intake gaskets use a small(!) layer of black or gray RTV (for cosmetics) on both sides.
To clean out the intake ports rotate the engine so that the intake valve for that port is closed and blow it out...repeat for the others.
The gasket for the bottom side is a special material not readily available for fabrication of a gasket. Anything will work for a while. I have some extra gaskets if your looks like THIS
(size may not display accurately..it is about 3" x 3.25")
I can mail to you if it will work for you.
Willie
-
Jake
What a great essay! It should be required reading for all the BCA board members. Maybe they should read the bylaws also!
Willie
-
Closing remarks:
2430 miles at 15.5mpg overall; 10% ethanol always decreased mpg by 10%.
Great show and great people, especially the forum members I got to meet.
Bill Stoneberg should get an award for always finding the best food and well poured booze and beer.
MiKe did not drown his sorrows about the judging thing...but he did give them something to swim in.
I did not touch a tool this year, but I did offer some advice to Scott Mich (standing with my hands in my pockets while he worked on his car).
Willie
-
Being old and slow, I'm still on the road, or off the road in McKinney TX....I gave up 300 miles from home. Leaving Kansas City area this am the temps were in the 90's after 9am and were 102-108* in southern OK and N TX. The temp gauge was pegged and the ac could not keep up. No problems other than the brutal heat. Still fighting poor internet connections, so I will wait till I get home for closing details.
Willie
-
Last night 21 warriors got together to eat Italian food. My last count of Buicks from Texas was 6 driven and one trailored.
Willie
-
What is the difference between the Kahler Grand hotel and a Super8?....the Super8 has intenet access! Dang snooty hotels.
But hey, I'm here to have fun. the car is washed and parked. Last 2 fill-ups=14.5 mpg (10% ethanol); 16.2 (the good stuff again).
Got to meet some forum members and look forward to meeting more.
Willie
-
We decided to stop in Cameron also...maybe I can out-fumble Bill for the check again. 430 miles; 16.6mpg. Mike (Buick5563)is back on the road again near Oklahoma City after a delay getting towed and replacing a burned distributor rotor...the same problem that I had last year. Pertronix struck again! He will look for a loaded distributor at the swap meet and will need a timing light. Hint: Jake??
Willie
-
I give mine to Bill Stoneberg and let him worry about them <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smirk.gif" alt="" />
Willie
-
We made it to Norman, OK yesterday ~460 miles. No car trouble, 16mpg. It was very hot 100+ in north TX and OK. The factory AC was barely adequate. Then last night were some heavy rain....at least i did not have to drive in it. Met with Bill Stoneberg and his dad for dinner and they report no problems. Tonight maybe Council Bluffs...need to get off this boring I35.
Willie
-
We had so much fun and adventure last year ( Batavia ) that we will try it again.
I will be driving the same car...the one in the avatar and will leave Seguin (San Antonio area) TX early tomorrow morning and try to meet Bill Stoneberg in Norman, OK.
Willie
-
Greg
On all 3 of my 55's the hole is just in front of the rear flange on the torque tube. I just looked at some parts and noted that if the hole is drilled 4.5" in front of the flange you can drill into the driveshaft to empty it if you suspect it to contain fluid.
I drill the hole to be tapped for a 3/16 bolt/screw.
Willie
-
John D
The following comments are about my 55...your 56 may have some differneces.
The fluid gets into the driveshaft either through the splines or through an imperfect weld at the rear of the driveshaft tube.
To get the fluid out of the driveshaft, drain the torque tube and hopefully it will come out where it came in. Looking at some of my 55 parts you could drill a hole in the torque tube and then into the driveshaft 4.5 inches in front of the rear flange. Otherwise remove the driveshaft from the pinion and drain/flush. The unit that I was referring to in my previous post had about a quart of fluid in the driveshaft when removed.
The vibration your are experiencing sounds like it is from fluid in the driveshaft...anything over 60 mph and the rear view mirror is a blur.
Willie
-
-
I tap the hole and install a small screw to act as a plug. This will keep dirt/water out and if you do have a 'leaker' then you can drain it regularly instead of having a mess.
Willie
Pics of the "new" garage
in Buick - General
Posted
I've been to this very nice shop..much cooler than mine. I don't remember that Blatz Beer sign...or any Blatz or Shiner Bock or Bud <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />...
Willie