old-tank

635 lbs http://gasalley.thetumbleweeds.net/tech_archive/general/engine_weights.htm After lifting a 55 dynaflow a few times I would swear it weighs over 300 lbs.

Archie--I would not condem the stock cooler because of fear that water will contaminate the trans fluid...if a leak occurred it would be the other way around. The trans fluid is in excess of 15psi and would contaminate the water if there was a leak...which I have never seen. Ken--Hose clams are fine, just use heavier tubing made for trans fluid. Willie

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Pat If you can wait a little longer, I plan on getting pictures and description of this same project that a friend is doing to a 54 Century 322. It is a few weeks away from driving and stopping under its own power. After that we will make a date for a drag race to see if a more modern step gear transmission can beat a stock dynaflow. Willie</div></div> This from an earlier post in the same thread...I had a chance to briefly looks at the project (no pictures). My conclusion is that if you are set on changing the drive train you should do it. I had a lot of trouble getting a dynaflow rebuilt and had to change it 4 times (big pain). But after seeing what it takes to switch...well that is a BIGGER PAIN! Much more expensive and considerably more time. This friend has built dozens of rods and is using techniques he has used in the past, but everytime he solves one problem he creats 3 more...I noticed and pointed out a few things that he had not thought of or noticed. I am finding the same problem with my 264 nailhead engine swap into a 51 F-1...it would have been easier and less expensive to rebuild the flathead and even add some performance goodies and bling. As promise I will get some pictures and description eventually. Willie

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I traded nailheads and Willie gave me the flathead free!!! </div></div> Whatta you mean free...you're gonna be paying for a long time. Willie

Also, you can spot a classic car show long before you can make out the makes...the colors are brighter than current makes. My paint store that mixes my paints noted that all of the current colors have alot of black in them making them look 'dirty'. That and the choice of 2 interior colors: baby poo tan and steatorrhea gray. Willie

Lamar It is basically just going to be an engine swap (yeah right...). It will retain the original rear (3.92 gears), original tranny (4 speed granny with spur gears...meaning double clutching will take 1-2 sec on every shift), original brakes, steering and suspension. Biggest problem now is steering box interferance with the starter (even bought a mini-starter) and will need to be moved out and up, so now I need a good welder. The 264 is the smallest nailhead, but will double my power...any more and upgrades to steering, suspension and brakes would be needed. Mike OK, the flathead is not sick...just an excuse to swap engines. Willie

A good rebuilt original pump will serve you well for years. I have an electric pump on one of mine in addition to the stock just to fill the carburetor after extended inactivity, and also to treat cases of vapor lock. This is a high pressure pump and is not suitable for constant use. If you use an electric pump mount it as close to the tank as possible and be sure it is regulated at 4-6 psi. Willie

Archie I cannot get out to measure for a while, but find a spot to mount and measure what will fit. Willie

1955 264 nailhead into a 51 F-1...the old flathead was sick and this is a project that I alway wanted to do to this truck I have had for 32 years. 63 years old and my first 'rod'. Willie

Recently I looked at a last generation Riviera on a 3rd rate used car lot. It was obviously a well used car with in addition to other wear the headlite lenses were yellow and cloudy, one worse than the other. In the same lot was a mid 80's mid size 4 door Buick (Century?) that too was well used, but the glass headlites still sparkled and to me that made it a more attractive car. Two of my vehicles 92 and 97 have cloudy lenses. I tried removing and buffing on the 92 with only mediocre results. I checked with a shop that advertized 'restoration' of the plastic lenses and after inspecting some of their work it appears they can do no better than me. Both of my cars are in good shape except for the nasty lights, making them look 'old and tired'. Willie

While at the recent 'Buicks and Blue Bonnets' meet I was leaving a restaurant at dusk when a nice young man came up to my 55. He complimented the car and mentioned his concern over the fact that only one of my backup lights was working. I told him the other one only works when it is real dark. He then stuck his finger in a porthole and asked what they were for. I told him exhaust comes out when activated and told him to stand back while demonstrated. He nearly stumbled and fell when I revved tha engine. While traveling in Pennsylvania about 10 years ago on the way to a BCA meet, I pulled into a gas station with my 55. While fueling a very unpleasant lady(?) came up and asked what kind of gas mileage the car got. After telling her about 15 mpg she proceded to lecture me about wasting energy in that gas guzzler. I told her I was from Texas and in addition to a 10000 acre ranch I had about 50 oil wells and thanked her for using my product (none is true). She got into her Geo Metro and left in a huff. Recently near home again I was refueling the 55 when a young man pulled in with his low rider (63 Impala) and asked me what I did to that Chebby. I went through a long list of customization techniques and said that if did any more it might be a Buick...don't think he ever understood and is still telling his buddies about that customized 55 Chebby. And of course there is the old 'hands free starting' Looking forward to some of your Buick stories. Willie

I used one similar to THIS and seems to work well, but a big one in front of the radiator would be better. Just Google or Ebay 'transmission cooler'. Willie

If you are not concerned with originality, get an aftermarket cooler which will cool much better. The original cooler was barely adequate in normal driving, but was ineffective if driving in mountains or towing. I love my Buicks but this was a peace-poor design: the hottest water in the engine was directed to the 'cooler' instead of the coolest water from the bottom of the tank on later models. You can also eliminate about 20' of heater hose. If you need the direction of flow of the transmission fluid it goes from the front of the transmission thru the cooler to the back of the transmission. Willie

No numbers handy, but NAPA and Carquest sell filters made by Wix which is sold under that name by other parts stores. Willie

I hope that a machine shop mistake that happened to me twice did not happen here. Generic shims were placed under the outter valve springs and covered the recess in the head for the inner valve spring resulting in binding. It too ran for a few minutes and stopped. We found bent pushrods, bent and broken rocker shafts, broken rocker towers, broken rockers, bent cam and cracks in block at the central cam webbing. I caught the mistake on the second engine...this was after I insisted that they pay particular attention to this...I have heard of other nailheads dying this way. Willie

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Inside the outer retainer, there is vulcanized rubber bonded to the circumference, and this seals up against the torque ball. The torque ball needs to be smooth and polished for this to make a good seal. I don't know why Bob's told you that they wouldn't accept your old retainer as a core. It is exactly what they'll send you in it's place. </div></div> Not exactly correct. The original outter torque ball retainer was a metal to metal seal using a soft metal that is probably copper. This is where you used various shims and the broom stick routine to get the right tension. Later replacement seals with the rubber vulcanized to the lip served the same purpose, but was different...you cannot vulcanize rubber to an original outter torque ball retainer...it will not work. No shims were needed on the later retainer other than to serve as a gasket. CARS sells an outter torque ball retainer without a core, but it will soon fail because the rubber is not compatible with oil; Fatsco transmission will sell without a core and is a recommended product/vendor. Willie

Tom You should get whatever tire you feel the most comforable with. Two other points that I cannot believe have not been discusssed 1- Some radial collector tires can cost nearly twice the bias-ply equivalent. 2- Radial tires after 6 years are old and deteriorating (google "tire expiration date") It will be harder to drive your investment out of them. Willie

If the plug is not sealed/seated this will happen. Replace the plug and be sure it is tight.

In 1955 the Roadmaster, Super and Century used 3.41 early in the year and 3.36 later in the year. The Special used a 3.58 (referred to as a 3.60). Some Specials with standard transmission used 3.90 (rare). The late year 55's changed to a ring gear bolted to the carrier in all series ( the early model year units along with prior units had the ring gear riveted to the carrier).

I have not noticed a decrease in mileage on my older carbureted cars, but they are all pinging like crazy...and this is during the cool time of the year where high cylinder head temperatures are not a factor. On the other hand the newer computerized cars are getting about 10% poorer economy, probably because the computer retards the timing to run without pinging on the available fuel. There was some discussion on a local radio automotive talk show suggesting that selecting a higher octane grade fuel gives better economy, but the overall cost is the same. Willie

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You probably also believe in the Tooth Fairy. </div></div> Welcome back Joe...we missed your wise assesement of people and situations. Looking forward to more. Willie

Some more points as to why I vote to disassemble: the filter media is there to intercept oil droplets so none is lost out the draft tube...the intercepted oil drains back into the engine maybe with some of the crud that was loosened by attempts to clean; if you take one apart it will be apparent that that is the only way to clean; clogged media will result in too much pressure build up in the crankcase causing leaks; it will take 2 hours tops and can be done without disturbing pretty paint on the topside if you use JBweld. Willie

Rick Electric fuel pumps work best mounted near the tank...they push fuel better than pulling it. Also if there are any leaks between the tank and the pump, air could be pulled into line. Willie