old-tank

John, if it does it again, start removing things like the fan belt, fuel pump. In the meantime, in case it is sticky valves squirt some Risolone around the valve stems, let it sit overnight, start it and pour some MMO into carb and add some to gas. After that a 200 mile trip with fresh oil and gas is recommended. Sounds like it runs too good to be serious and it is my understanding that nailheads are not interference engines...no damage from a rebuild where the timing chain was installed like a chebby. Willie

I had a few more things to say before may thread was locked: http://forums.aaca.org/f115/55-buick-bugle-article-questions-comments-345566.html This could have been handled differently, like having a private communication before locking or deleting. I am finished dealing (on this forum) with editor Pete Phillips and hate mail because I am so mean. I'm going back to the tech forum and fix some 55's. But like my chihuahua one last statement: (no response needed or wanted) --- Willie I don't expect perfection, but I demand excellence!

I just saw the first "restored" car with the trunk handle / ornament that had the recesses painted. Months have gone by and still no correction by the editor of the issues I and others have pointed out. Post #7: "While I regret some of the errors..." is the only admission by the editor. It has been suggested that I submit a "Letter to the editor". I offered post #1 if they cared to use it (Post #37). Most editors use a 'clarification' or 'errata' section. The Bugle"Letters to the editor" are too often seen as merely another opinion. Now to all you nice folks that sent me PM's and emails reminding me of how totally worthless I am, I say "no más".....I get it.; you think I am mean. Sorry. Like I said in post #1, I don't want to try to sell one of mine to someone who insists it is incorrect based on the Bugle article and itis already happening: I just saw the first trunk handle/ornament with the recesses painted...how many more will we see at National meets? The editor wrote the article and needs to correct it.

personal problem?

You can remove a dynaflow using this method, but to remove a standard transmission, the rear end and torque tube will need to be completely removed. Even then the rear of the engine with transmission attached will have to be lowered to allow the transmission to clear the cross member ( that is because the pilot shaft of the transmission not only has to clear the flywheel, but also the clutch splines ). Depending on your equipment, it may be easier to remove the engine. Willie

See your radio installer. That radio may require a stable and 'clean' voltage that may not be possible with the old generator/voltage regulator.

On my first rebuild, I was having trouble finding gears; chain no problem. I told the machinist and he looked at my old gears and said as long as there is not a wear pattern you can catch your nail on, they would be fine. The chain was so tight that it took some time to get the two gears to slide on their respective shafts. 30+ years ago....

John I have no clue...probably a communication problem between engineers and document makers...gotta just look past it. Willie

http://www.buickrestorer.com/heaterhose/heaterhose.htm I added another Low Tech Tip to my website. Three hours or less even if you are an amateur. Willie

Brian, where did you read that?

Ok, now that it have been determined that that only the 400 point judged cars will be in the host hotel lots, where are the step-children going to be parked? St Mary's College? (lots here are 200-600 meters from the host hotel.) Is there designated parking for the general public? Where? I have choices and decisions to make: Stay home (not an option, since it means that you won) Forgo registration and park with the general public (and miss out on the hospitality room?) Cancel host hotel reservations and get a much cheaper room miles away since I will probably be driving anyway. Register the car for judging; park it lock it and leave it on the show field ( I'll be close with the 55's...just have to hide when the judges come around) One more time: where are the step-children going to be parked? Willie

Where?? Mike? Anybody? I want to be pithed-off now and not when I get to the meet (that way I will have gotten over it)

I can't find it now, but it was in publication called "Dynaflow Doctor"

SEALED POWER Part # 222491 Add this to your search. Currently made ones may be the same old loose junk, but if you find one made when the cars were contemporary, you will find a better one. Willie

It is my understanding the the National Meet Committee did not make this decision as a group...it was a decision made by Mike Book and Alan Oldfield (members of the committee) with input from Rick Schick. So what good is a committee if other members of the committee are as surprised as I am. So, where is the proposed parking? A satellite map of the host hotels shows a large mostly contiguous parking lot. Will all of the registered cars be parked there or on some other remote parking lot. I registered a the host hotel so I would not have do much walking or driving this year. Willie

This needs to be reconsidered. Doing it this way puts the 400 point show cars together (perception: rich peoples' trailer queens get the good spot and others get the step-child treatment and get parked remotely) and perpetuates the existing class warfare. All of the cars need to be parked somewhere. What is the problem with parking a large class like Reatta in the area you now have designated for the driven class or display only cars. So the only way for me to be parked with other 55's is to have it judged; I don't want to have it judged since I have proven the point that I can will awards and I am too lazy to detail it after driving 1200 miles (and here we have another car to add to the judges' workload). Parking an Archival car next to a Senior Preservation car would be educational; even having modifieds here would be nice. The way it is now, it might be better to forgo registration and park with the general public...same difference. I haven't registered yet... Willie

That "arc in the tip" is a stylistic drawing of using a wire gauge to gap a used plug ....the plugs looked j The Autolite 75 should be gapped at 0.035 in. That is the gap range they were made for. Even though your new ignition may support a larger gap, you will need to talk to them about plug recommendations. As an example of plug recommendation for my Olds: AC-R46 has a recommended gap of 0.040 in; AC-R46SZ has a recommended gap of 0.060 in and AC-R46SX has a recommended gap of 0.080 in. Willie

For your reading pleasure: How to Use and Interpret a Vacuum Gauge Vacuum Engine Timing | MILEPOSTS Garage (Tech Tips)

You can use the vacuum gauge to set timing and move the distributor to get the highest vacuum. I advance the timing until I get the highest vacuum reading (maybe back off a little) and then check with a timing light. The completely original 322 in one of my 55's likes 5* btdc just like the factory specs. The other 2 322's with repro cams likes 7-1/2*. The 264 in my truck likes 10*. Once you get the readings, write them down so you can duplicate later or if big changes in the reading, you know you have to investigate. Willie

The only thing I would add is if you disconnect wires, tape the ends before turning on the ignition. The (+) wire to the coil and the wires to the carb switch are not fuse protected and if grounded will fry your wiring harness instantly! I agree at this point, ignore vacuum and compression and drive it when you can stop it. Willie

This may be part of the problem. The stock nailhead cams had a long duration and overlap to the point there were a lot of customer complaints (lumpy idle) in 1956. On my first 'rebuild' I reused the original cam and when I took it to the machine shop to check if it was still serviceable, they asked what race engine it was from. (There is a definite visual difference from a stock chevy and nailhead cam --- I would guess that if the nailhead profile was used in other engines it would be considered a race cam) The original 264 engines had a different cam than the 322's (I don't know what the differences are), but the available cams from Egge list the same part number no matter what engine. The 264 in my 51 F-1 truck was rebuilt before I got it and an unknown cam was installed (it does not have the identifiers that the stock cam had) and it is lumpy, with lower vacuum than my 322's and runs better that it should (scary fast!). My point is, we have no idea what effect the cam may have on your engine. When you get the brakes sorted out drive it! Willie

That changed in 55, earlier dynaflows had the detents or clicks elsewhere like in the steering column. For testing off the car there was an available "selector quadrant" you attached. Willie

That's the one. It needs bumpers at the 4 corners...sold separately.

Road trip! Change the oil and then run it 70 mph for a couple of tanks of gas. If that does not help, try adding Risolone to the oil and 44-K to the gas and repeat the trip. Or, if you don't like driving it that much use the additives on the first trip. Willie

Back in the 60's a spoiled kid from down the street would regularly thrash his daddy's 59 Invicta. The U-turns brought back some memories...flying fins and howling tires. Thanks, Willie