Jim

Bob, I have them and will send you an email. Jim

It is very unlikely your heater core is bad. Most likely it is the heater programmer which is located under the glove box, mounted vertically next to the ECM. You do have to remove the glove box to get at the rotating arm but it does come out from the bottom. There will be a bunch of vacumn hoses going to it. Another thought, it could be the ECC. The climate control unit above the radio. Both of these item go bad quite often on the '90-91s. I have several parts cars and have both units if you determine what part you need. I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

One of the reasons we were told was GM felt the CRT display would not show up very good in a convertible with the top down.

Once the band breaks internally you cannot move the mast up or down because the band needs to be connected to the motor to pull it back down. I have some good used antennas available from my Reatta parts cars. I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

The CRT is easy to remove and replace. The trim panel in front of the instrument panel cluster is just held on with some push in tabs so you just pull the trim panel away. Be sure and pull both the black outer trim and the black plastic backing. When you have removed this trim plate you will see two screws holding the vent and trim panel over the CRT. Remove these two screws and the other end has the same type of tabs and the first panel. After removing that panel you will see the CRT is held in with four screws. Remove them and the two connectors on the back you simply squeeze and they will come off. I also have several Reatta parts cars and have a good CRT available if the one you get from your friend is no good. I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

I have several Reatta parts cars and have some good used CRT/touch screens. I also have about 25 that do not work and last week I called Rex to have some of them repaired. The lady I talked to at Rex told me that their repairman was a Chineese national and he left last Friday for a two month visit to China. He is expected back after the first of the year and in the mean time they are not repairing any CRTs.

It could still be binding or it could be your window switch. One way you can test to see if it is binding is disconnect the connector on the end of the motor and apply a good strong battery and ground to the two terminals on the end of the motor. One way it will go up and reversing the battery and ground will make the window go down. If it is slow this way you still have a binding problem. You may want to cut the two wires, apply the battery and ground to the wires going to the motor and after you are done splice them back together again. If the speed is correct you probably have a bad switch. I do have some good ones at a reasonable price.

You can use striping tape found at most auto body supply shops. You may have to go to Brainerd but when you are done you will have an incorrect stripe as the originals were painted on the body. I have replaced stripes on several cars. A couple of times I took the car to a local sign painter and after watching him I decided to do it myself. I also have one of those wheel stripers made by Buegler and it would probably work good but I am NOT an artist and cannot paint two straight lines. I watched the sign painter and he took striping (masking) tape and taped off the stripes he wanted to add to the car. Using a small brush, and using enamel, he painted between the tapes and when he pulled off the tape it was perfect. Black would be the easiest because black is black so there will be no color matching problems. Just before you apply the paint you do want to press the edges of the masking tape down hard so when you pull the tape off the edges will be crisp and not fuzzy or jagged. Also before applying the tape and paint you will want to use some good wax and grease remover so the paint will stick. I have since used this method successfully several times. P.S. I have good photo cells available at a reasonable price.

I have several Reatta parts cars and do have the part you are looking for, although I am not sure specifically which item you need. I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

See my post titled " ply separation"

This is actually a follow up to the post titled "Re: Car pulls to the right at low speeds" From my experience and what I have been told about radial tires and modern front suspensions when a car pulls to one side it is usually the tires and as Padgett said you can swap the fronts and see if the car then pulls to the opposite side. A problem then might be possible ply separation. I recently went on two trips with my '91 and put on 6500 miles. Before I left Duluth, three weeks ago, my car was pulling to one side so I reversed the fronts and indeed the car then pulled to the other side. After about 100 miles around home I started out for Spokane WA but when I got as far as Fargo I thought I better put the fronts on the back, which I did at a friends shop in Fargo, because I could feel the car wobbling at slow speeds so I knew I was getting ply separation. I drove to Spokane and then to Sand Point ID and on my way to Colorado Springs I stopped in Butte MT and checked my rear tire. Look at the attached picture.

I wasn't going to comment until I read the last statement " soon to be extinct module". A little known fact is many of the radios GM used in the late '80s to early '90s were all the same. The radio in my '88 Chev pickup went bad so I put one in from one of my Reatta parts cars, exact replacement. The radio module in the '90-91 Reattas is the exact same as the '88-89s. In the later Reattas and many other GM cars the "radio" consists of several sections, the face assembly, the radio module, a tape module etc. Three screws hold the radio module to the face assembly in a standard unit and that module then can be installed into the console of the earlier Reattas. Externally ALL of the period radio modules look the same so if you do get one out of a GM standard arrangement you do have to make sure it came from a unit with an equallizer. If you don't get one from an assembly with an equalizer you will have "trebble" and "base" switches instead showing up on your CRT.

Before starting this procedure, BOTH transmitters must be present. Failure to use both transmitters will render the missing transmitter inoperative. If the customer uses only one transmitter on the vehicle, use this transmitter as transmitter 1 and 2. The entire reprogramming sequence must be completed within 30 seconds of grounding the connector. If the procedure is not completed, remove the ground at the connector and restart the procedure from step 1 1. Ignition "ON" 2. Ground green single wire connector ( located near the ABS module in the trunk. 3. Wait for the door locks to lock and unlock ( should take 2 seconds) 4. Press the "unlock" button on the first transmitter twice ( pauses for one second between presses) 5. Wait for door locks to lock and unlock ( should take 2 seconds) 6. Press the "unlock" button on the second transmitter twice ( pause for one second between presses) 7. Wait for door locks to lock and unlock ( should take 2 seconds) 8. Remove ground from green conector.

Dick, From my experience you will need to replace your window motor/regulator. I hve a good one and will send you an email. Jim

Your're not stupid, the manuals are not the easiest to read. I have an '89 manual and your '88 is similar. Look at section 8A-16 pages 0-3. On page 3 is a numerical listing. Look at the CPS line and it gives a location and also will show a listing for a picture ( figure ). In my '89 manual the picture is in section 201 and is picture 12-A. ( 201-12-A ) I have good used CPS's if you need one. jfinn@cpinternet.com

I have several Reatta parts cars and have the reflector you are looking for. I will send you an email and I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

Connie, I went to one of my '90 parts cars and disconnected all three of the connectors on the BCM and the car still cranked over, started up and ran. Maybe the ECM? I will send you an email. Jim

The hub and bearing are definitely different because of the smaller splined shaft on the outer end but, from memory, I think the inner (transmission) end is the same. I have about 20 of them sitting in my shed, I will go take a look.

'88 Reattas used a smaller axle shaft than the '89-91s. The splined outer end is smaller. I have seen many misrepresentations in his sales. Very often he will describe a part as being in "great condition" and one look at the picture tells a different story. Currently he has a window switch listed as an '89 but the one in the picture is of a '90-91

Tom, I have a friend in Rockford Illinois that might be interested, I will send him your email address. Jim

Dan, Rivieras from about '87 to '90 had an optional 15 inch aluminum wheel and it was referred to as a turbine style. I believe they continued this style in '91 as a 16 inch. I have a set of the 15 inch ones and will send you an email. Jim

Cliff, I do have the parts and returned your email. Jim jfinn@cpinternet.com

Kim, Your pump and motor are not running and this is why your level is high in the reservoir and you have a hard pedal. It could be a couple of different things. The fuse(s) could be blown or a relay could be bad. All of the relays in the cars are the same so you could temporarily use,say,one of your headlight relay to plug into one of the brake relay sockets on the firewall. From my experience the most common part to go wrong is the pressure switch mounted just above the pump. One clue to it being bad is if you disconnect the connector on the pressure switch look inside and if it looks like there is some brake fluid in there it is definitely bad. It should be completely dry in there. I may have a good pressure switch, I will have to check, and I also have all the relays. Your IPC going black and reading 0 and 00 is something separate, most often a bad IPC. I also have good ones of these available. Jim

I have several Reatta parts cars and have all of the parts you are looking for. I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com and I will send you an email.

I have both of the parts new for less than GM sells them for. I also have several Reatta parts cars for anything elso you might need. I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com