Jim

Sounds like you have some odd problems and I am guessing some of them are not related to each other, but you could maybe have a bad BCM ( body computer module ) or a bad CPS ( central power supply ) or maybe just dirty connections on one of those items. Generally the Reattas had pretty good reliable electronic systems. I have several Reatta parts cars and can maybe help with any parts you might need. I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com On your not cranking problem, If your car is a '90-91 I have had a couple of instances where the chip on the key was not making contact and the "pass key system" did not recognize the chip ( its actually just a resistor ). When this happens the system automatically shuts down for about 5 minutes because it suspects someone is trying to bypass the system or steal the car. After 5 minutes it will reset istself and you can try and start the car again. If you do have a '90 or newer try a different key in the ignition.

The CRTs/touch screens should work in any year car but the style is different. The '88-89 Reattas and Rivieras used touch screens with 6 manual "hard" keys 3 on top and 3 on the bottom. The '86-'87 Rivieras used a touch screen that had the 6 keys as soft keys. As far as the instrument panel clusters ( IPCs ) go the '88-89 IPCs were interchangeable but the earlier Riveras '86-87 used an IPC that looked the same from the front as the '88-89s but will not work in an '88-89 and if you compare them from the rear you will see the boards internally are completely different. I do have an IPC for an earlier Riviera that I will sell cheap. I will send you an email. I have several '88-91 Reatta and '88-93 Riviera parts cars. I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

The window is held to the plastic track that is riveted in the channel of the vent window frame by a small "T" that is bonded to the main window. It is not uncommon for this "T" to come loose and the window then will not stay in the correct position going up and down. The only solution to the problem is to replace the main window. I have sold quite a few of these because of this problem. I have several Reatta parts cars and try to sell my parts at a reasonable price. Unfortunately I am away from home until about April 5. and unavailable for shipping or emailing. ( I am using someones else's computer )

George, Get the hammer and tell the junk yard owner someone else did it. Sorry I forgot to get back to you on looking at one of my '88s. It is now dark out and I am leaving early tomorrow for a trip to Phoenix/Tucson for about 10 days.

I will be away from home from Mar 24 for about 10 days and in the Phoenix/Tucson area and unavailable for emailing or shipping.

I have several good Reattas and many Reatta parts cars and I have had two instances where the crankshaft pully ( harmonic balancer )was faulty. The rubber gets bad and the unit gets loose. Take the tension off your serpentine belt and with your hands see if there is any movement in the pulley at the bottom of the engine. I will be away from home from Mar 24 for about 10 days and unavailable for emailing or shipping.

Several of my gauges didn't work on my '91 and it turned out to be the BCM. I may have one but I am leaving for the Phoenix/Tucson area tomorrow for about 10 days.

It's not real commom but it does happen. It is not serious unless you are leaking a lot of fluid. A puddle about 6 inches in diameter is actually only a few drops. If the puddle is small and you don't mind the spot on the ground I would just leave it and watch the level of your transmission. To replace the seal you have to pull the axle and are probably looking at $100, mostly for labor. Jim P.S. I sent your parts out today.

I have lots of windshields for $ 200 each but I do not want to ship one because they are so fragile. It would have to be picked up here in Duluth Minnesota.

No 90 BCM 1228786 91 BCM 16137944 90 ECM 1228253 91 ECM 16141470 I am pretty sure I have all of them available.

My opinion is, like Greg says buy a parts car if you can store it and buy it cheap otherwise the only part I would watch for and buy if you can find one cheap is a CRT/touch screen. I have many Reatta parts cars and the parts business has dropped off dramatically. The reason is the cars are now between 16 and 13 years old and there are a lot of them showing up in junk yards and for sale by private parties simply because they are high mileage and worn out. There are always items for sale on eBay now and I believe will be for years to come. I used to travel the whole country to buy parts cars and recently I passed on one for $ 500 100 miles from me. An example is the vent windows, a couple of years ago they were almost impossible to find, now they are on ebay for $ 40 I will have Reatta parts cars for a long time and I try to sell my parts at a reasonable price. I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com On the other hand if you do want to stock up I can sell you one of everything

I suspect it wouldn't work as the door has to be closed to make the tape player work and the wire from the cassette would get in the way. I had one Reatta that had and aftermarket 10 disc player mounted in the trunk up below the rear window brake light and this worked very well.

The schematics for electrical parts are not in the manuals, only the external wiring. Unfortunately I also have several bad IPCs and no schematic.

I have several Reatta parts cars and have the belt you are looking for. I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

At the "Reatta Reunion" last summer in Flint there was a pretty extensive discussion with one of the engineers who was involved with the bumpers when the cars were being built. The bumpers are indeed polished aluminum and then anodized. This anodizing process protects the aluminum from corroding but as a result the bumper will not look like chrome but have a very slight yellow tint to it. Many of us saw Barney's old Select 60 at Flint last year and the bumpers on that car had been stripped of the anodizing and polished. They were just like chrome and the owner stated he had to polish them about twice a year to keep them looking shiny. The cheapest way to make your bumpers look shiny would be to strip the anodizing and then keep them polished as reanodizing would cost about $ 300 per bumper. On the down side the bumpers would then be too shiny and at a judging meet you should have points deducted for "over restoration". Last summer I experimented with removing anodizing on some damaged bumpers and tried different clear coats. I tried lacquer, enamel and poly based clears and didn't have real good success. Another problem with clear coating is getting the paint/clear to stick to the aluminum for the long run. Professional shops do get good clear paints onto aluminum but to do it right I am guessing the cost would end up being about the same as if you had them reanodized. My advice Roger, would be to send the bumpers out, have them stripped, and then reanodized if you want the car to be correct.

Ed, Barney and Wally's ideas and suggestions are excellent. The only thing I can add from experience is sort of monitor the amount of fluid coming out when you are bleeding the rears. After about a cup or less comes out stop and refill the resevoir as you can deplete the fluid quite fast when the rear bleeders are open and stand the chance of running low and maybe getting air into the system. If you get too much in the resevoir you can always siphon it out as a last step.

Here I am. I did go out to Montana/Idaho snowmobiling but am back and as Greg mentioned I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com Greg----- I have talked to Bill Porter a couple of times now, nice fellow. I didn't realize PEI is a ways away from anywhere else. Bill was telling me it is free to get to the island but pretty expensive to come back across the bridge. Thanks, for the referrals. Jim

I have several Reatta parts cars and have the part you are looking for. I will send you an email. I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

I sent you an email with my prices. Jim

Last fall I went to Cancun looking for Reatta parts and didn't find any. Tomorrow I am leaving for a week to the West Yellowstone area to look for parts in the mountains of Montana and Idaho. I bought a Polaris 700 RMK and plan on looking on Two Top MT. and Lion Head MT and many places where the trails don't go. If I find any Reattas I will post them here. I will be unavailable for shipping parts or emailing from Jan 29 until Feb 7

I have most of the parts you are looking for. Send me an email at jfinn@cpinternet.com and I can give you some prices. Include your zip code. Jim

I have several Reatta parts cars and have the window and mirror you are looking for. I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

I have several Reatta parts cars and have all of the parts you are looking for in red. You can check my reputation on this forum and I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

Thanks, Greg, for the recommendation. Henryjfinn is my user name on Ebay but Jim in my user name on this site. I do have the door handle cups and can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com I don't know where to get better headlights but it is VERY important to flush your brakes asap and I would then do it every two or three years.

I sure wish it was warmer out there also. Today it was about 5 above zero and I was out laying under a Reatta parts car trying to remove the emergency brake cables that I now know I sold way too cheap. You guys had some really cold weather last week.