Jim

I have both the vent window assemblies and the mirrors available and can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

Reattas did not use the twilight sentinel prior to 1991 but I do have both of the switch assemblies you are looking for. The wiper module and the headlight module with the twilight sentenel for your Riv. I will not be able to do anything about them today but if you can wait for two weeks I should be able to help out. Send me an email at jfinn@cpinternet.com and I will respond when I get back. Jim

I will be away from home from Feb 19 until March 7 and unavailable for emailing or shipping of any parts. Jim

My first Reatta had about 36,000 miles on it when I got it. At about 50,000 it started to develop a miss when it went into closed loop at about 140 degrees. I checked everything I could think of and looked at the plugs and they looked good with a nice square top on the center electrode. After doing everything I could think of, I took it to my local GM dealer and the mechanic and I worked together on the car and even with all their machines couldn't come up with a reason for the miss. We talked about the plugs but agreed they looked OK. I took the car home and out of desperation put in a set of plugs anyway. Cured the problem. I then took my original plugs and put them into a Corsica that I had been doing some work on, and that car ran fine with my old Reatta plugs. Bottom line------- with all the computer controls I think you did the right thing changing the plugs when you did.

My thoughts are fuel filter or fuel pump. Should be at least 40 pounds pressure at the Shraeder valve on the fuel rail.

Nic, I went and looked at my Select 60 and it has a flame red cover on the tonneau cover. For you to find one you would have to get one off another Select 60 or a '91 convertible with a red interior. Either is going to be almost impossible to find. Jim, Your car has a burgundy interior and the cover on your tonneau cover is more of a burgundy color than Nic's red. I do have an extra burgundy cover from a '90.

From my experience F14crazy is right. The pumps rarely go bad but do sometimes and usually it is because a relay or the pressure switch went bad and caused the pump to continue running when it should have shut off and then ruining the pump. I do have good used pumps, pressure switches and accumulators and can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com I should also mention I will be away from home from Feb 19 until Mar. 7.

The ones NAPA and others were selling are for the '91 Reattas and these same handles also fit some other GM cars of the period. The problem with these handles is they do not have the extra casting and bracket on the back for the switch that is mounted there on the '88-90s. To the best of my knowledge the handles for the '88-90 Reattas were never available aftermarket and if Reattadudes did buy up all the stock I would guess they are sitting on a bunch of handles that are not in much demand by Reatta owners.

You get a replacement from me. The outside handles on the '88-90 Reattas are specific to Reattas and no others will work. The '91's are different.

I will send you an email. The Riv columns will not work, for 1 1/2 reasons. Reason one is they are wired slightly different because the Reatta has the cruise control on the directional arm and the Riv has it in the center of the steering wheel. The 1/2 reason is Riviera didn't use the same tan color as Reattas and you would need to paint the colored parts to match your Reatta.

I do. I sent you an email. Jim

The red reflectors are separate from the main lens. The red reflectors are a red front glued to a black backing and most of the time the glue will separate in a spot or two and water will get inside the lens. If, when I take one off one of my parts cars, I find water inside I usually drill an 1/8 inch hole on the back side down low to allow the water to drain out. I have several Reatta parts cars and have a good reflector available. I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

At the judging meets we have not been taking off points on those center caps that have been stripped of the clearcoat and then polished. The mirror housings when they came from the factory were pretty shiny to start with. They were not clearcoated so the black paint does tend to get dull. Hand compounding followed by waxing will restore them to their shiny finish. You do have to be careful though and this is why I recommend hand compounding as opposed to using a machine because the black paint is pretty thin and you can buff through it. I have seen quite a few mirror housings with the grey primer coming through. Points are deducted for a tail light lens that is not clear. The reason is the lenses came from the factory clear and that is the way they should be just as points are deducted for dull paint or dirty undercarriages. The judging manuals are now on line and they tell us the cars are to be judged according to the way they came from the factory. You cannot have non original items in your car. eg dash covers, non stock floor mats, any items in the trunk or accessories on the car that did not come from the factory. We are also told not to "kill" a car. If we judge a car that obviously has many items we can take off for, we are supposed to just note some major ones and let the others slide. Normally this way the owner probably won't get an award but also won't feel too bad if we were to point out all of the defects. The idea is to help the owners no discourage them. Again, the cars need to be clean inside, outside and upside down. They didn't come from the factory with aftermarket accessories, dirt, rust, corrosion or fading.

Jim, I don't know of anyone in the Duluth area that can reanodize the bumpers but maybe in the Cities. I have a bunch of bars that have bad anodizing on them and one of these days when I have nothing to do ( about 2010 ) I am planning on stripping them of the anodizing, buffing them and putting them on eBay. The anodizing can be removed by people who rechrome bumpers and can also be sanded off but it is very tedious. You can then use finer and finer sandpaper and then polish them. Once they are polished you can either clean them with aluminum polish about once every 6 months or spray them with a good urethane clear coat. When stripped and polished the impact bars then look like chrome instead of the slight yellowish color of the anodizing. In answer to Nic's question, I am of the belief that polished bumpers on Reattas are not correct because they are too shiny and points should be deducted, however, the BCA judging officials say we cannot take off for "over restoration" and at each meet where I have judged and the subject comes up I get overruled and the cars with polished bars do not get points taken off.

I also agree it's the harmonic balancer. I have several Reatta parts cars and have a good balancer available. I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

Since along with my several Reattas I own a 1924 REO coupe and have been wanting to take a tour of the REO museum I will be there. Thanks Ron and April for all the work you have done in planning what looks to be a fun weekend.

Larry, You need to insert some periods and spaces between your sentences. Jim

The original compressors can last a long time. They do seize up on rare occasion but simply by shutting off the AC will disengage the clutch from the compressor and you will be able to continue with your trip. Sometimes the clutches go bad but not that often. I have found on working systems most of the time you will loose the freon to a bad seal before the compressor seizes up and at that point you can replace the compressor. If yours is working correctly I wouldn't worry about it. I do not have any newer compressors on my parts cars, only used ones. You will not need the AC in Duluth anyway. We, as you know, are known as the "air conditioned city."

I agree with Barney's tests and ideas. The programmer is the black unit mounted vertically and has the moving arm on the top, visible by removing the glove box. To remove the programmer you also need to remove the black panel under the dash/glove box and the programmer is brought out from the bottom. The ECM, engine control module, is the silver unit located next to the programmer. I have several Reatta parts cars and have a good programmer available. I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

Usually when you have a hard pedal and no brakes the valves in the valve body of the ABS unit are sticking. This is a result of the natural tendency of brake fluid to attract moisture and this moisture causes corrorsion in the system. This is why it is very important to change the brake fluid every two or three years. I have complete ABS units available tht are in good working condition and can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

You were simply reading wrong what you saw. 64464 was actually B446H Low Refrigerant---- History 64824 is actually B482H ABS brake pressure problem-----History 65524 is actually B552H BCM keep alive memory error----History What that means is at one time these codes were present but not now, nothing to worry about.

Madsens, Selanders and Finns will be there and we are staying at the Quality Suites Maingate East 5876 W Irlo Bronson Hwy. Kissimmee.

I am not sure what he was referring to either when he said you needed an actuator. The pressure switch monitors high and low pressure and turns on the pump which pressurizes the accumulator ( black ball ) to 2600 pounds of pressure. When the pressure gets to near the high limit it will shut off the red and yellow lights and then shut off the pump. The pump might be bad and the motor good although I have never seen a pump go bad or you could have a bad pressure switch ( common to go bad ) or your accumulator could be bad. At this point it doesn't sound to me like you need to replace the whole unit on the firewall just one of the components mentioned. You can tell if the motor is running by turning on the key and putting your hand on the motor and you should feel it vibrating. If you do determine what you need I have several Reatta part cars and have whole ABS units, and misc. parts including switches, accumulators and pump/motor assemblies at reasonable prices. I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

I have sold quite a few window motor/regulators and from my experience when the window goes down a little and then clicks the teeth are stripped on the regulator portion of the motor/regulator assembly. I have good used motor/regulator assemblies available and can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com

I also have never seen one start a fire but I have seen several of them lock up and the belt then slips on the frozen pulley.