Barney Eaton

There was a lot of discussion about allowing radial tire on 400 point BCA judged cars that did not come with radials. Out of that discussion, the radials grip better and put more stress on a rim than a non-radial. To my knowledge there is no documentation that goes into detail about this being a safety issue. My advise would be on vehicles that did not come with radials and you will be using the stock rims....... it is unlikely a problem because you will not be stressing the wheels/tires with the type of driving you will do going to a meet and in parades. There are probably several owners on this forum that have been running radials on older stock rims for years without issue.

Keep us informed........ probably not much help here as few swaps like your plan have been documented. If you go rear drive, I would look for a GM vehicle (with 115 bolt pattern) was offered in AWD That would simplify the rear suspension as it would be a modular unit.

Another option would be near the starter. Most early cars have inline engines and the starter is within view. A bracket on the frame or firewall near the starter (because that is were the positive cable is located) might be easier to install and use.

good choice on the rims and tires..... I have some Buick tri-shield plastic emblems.... some are silver some are in 3 colors. measure the hole you are trying to fill and I will see what I have. You just pay the shipping if you can use what I have (these are new parts) Update... here is photo of the colored tri shield.... the are 2 3/16 in diameter. The silver ones are probably the same but I did not search for them after I located the colored ones.

If the vehicle is new to you or the A/C has not been looked after for awhile, also look at the front of the evaporator. We have 30 + year old cars and all sorts of thing get sucked into the air intake. All the incoming air goes thru the evaporator and dirt, hair, etc all get stuck on the front. You can see it by removing the blower motor control. This may not be the reason the compressor is not kicking in but while you are working on it you might as well clean the evaporator. I made a flexible attachment for my shop vac....used 3/4 vinyl tubing with a 90 degree elbow on the end... you do not have room for anything very large. It is also helpful if you have good light, I have a small night light bulb that I put into the hole and it give enough light to get the cleaning done.

My neighbor just sold this 68 Cutlass for $250 frozen engine It had an am/fm radio and 4 rally wheels that were probably worth more than the selling price.

You can test a ECM without pulling the old one. They are accessed from the passenger footwell.... unplug the connectors, plug them into the one you want to test and it can lay on the floorboard.

I had a similar problem a few years back and followed the test procedure in the service manual which showed the ECM was not grounding the relay for power. Did not believe the results and did the test again, same results. changed the ECM and the A/C worked

I will respond to everyone that sent me a PM. Hope no one is in a hurry, I may have one I could ship, will get with the machinist Monday and try and get a projected delivery schedule. There is little set-up but if he has an hour, maybe he could do 4.

I repair power antenna and lots of the '63-'65 antenna have a damaged mast insulator. At one time Clarks had them but they no longer have them. I approached a machinist I know and ask if he could make them.... no problem as long as I was in no hurry. He does them as filler work when I let him know I am out... They are made of black delrin and $25 including shipping. At first I thought that was high but he charges around $100 per hour and you cannot make one in 15 minutes. Attached are some pictures and they can be shortened for later model Tenna antenna used on GM cars.

One last comment I have seen modern systems where the coolant recovery tank was also intended to be pressurized. The recovery tank had a filler much like the radiator and had a pressure cap. the radiator also had a pressure cap (which was probably dual valved) many new cars have the radiator cap covered with trim pieces and they must be removed to see and remove the radiator cap. These factory recovery tanks were heavy duty molded plastic.

I believe you have it correct........... it should work fine as shown.

Someone may have covered this in their post......... If the engine get hot enough to push coolant out the overflow (controlled by a pressure cap) that coolant goes into the overflow or catch tank. When the engine cools down a vacuum is created and the coolant is sucked back into the radiator. The second valve allows the coolant to return to the radiator The above is why the hose or connection to the coolant overflow tank must be at the bottom so air is not sucked into the radiator..... that is also why the overflow tank should always have maybe 1/3 of its volume filled with coolant. As someone noted above, so it does not suck air.

I also use synthetic in my cars (and lawn mower) when I purchase a '39 Buick I did not go with synthetic mainly because it would not be driven that much. I only put maybe 100 miles a year on the '39 and changed the oil once a year (if I remember to do that)

That cleaned up nicely...... the steering wheel looks perfect, many are cracked. Someone could buy it and uses as-is for weddings.

This started with a question about which lift to choose and looks to be covering everything you want in the ultimate garage. So lets make a list. * size (unlimited) * at least 2 lifts a 4 post and a 2 post. * heat and if you live in the south A/C * good lighting * lots of storage * a inside wash rack with drain * needs an office and/or place for clean quiet conversation * a toilet, refrigerator, TV, internet connection optional... soft music and a place to take a nap

here is a Ebay link to one of the available kits. https://www.ebay.com/itm/124148130601?hash=item1ce7ce2329:g:eggAAOSwHNhej5DM&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8FaOOk5V6baxKsZxZ%2FoFAgarodP%2FeOkjgeQgVhzgjFSsPt8K%2BnbnhBDRU66MUbfpp4oNB%2FYgCAJDFnykepycNP%2FGLNrWKGfW4E4Nz7umSZAyrWeZRFfJOzdYrPSJH%2BWEUPFqJHmpIByaOaeXEKdOQiPziUrTe57Td1ThylE9Fi6%2FfqSOW%2Bli8wseJvHiwY%2FfMBQ98ct8%2BRHDzkfkPADlk%2BiPIK%2FDy5Y2GhL0vhBwmlG2TCEv%2BGOgLasy33w%2B9AvCtc6kZWW0jDF74DkMDA8NEg6%2BDX1CU%2BZnSa%2FuMrzV%2Bjf8gqNyqBr1G%2FbaW%2B0mbcjBLw%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR5T44qmrYw

Go to the tire rack web site and select your size. click on the selection and it will give you owner reviews on wear and noise.

I worked in manufacturing for 38 years and have a pretty good working knowledge of fasteners. Have seen sizes from 3/8 to 1/2 reported as the correct size. I know it is a Buick but 1/2 seems excessive. cquisuila... what is the outside diameter of the stud you need.... give me metric and I will convert to inch measurement.

I don't understand the confusion and no sarcasm intended......... something must have been lost in the translation. If i had the studs he needs I would send them to France.

I would think the '63 Olds would have a narrow whitewall (exact size may be hard to find) as Joe noted white wall tires of any size are getting hard to find in the '60's sizes. Remember tire sizes went from 16" to 15" to 14" (and some 13") then started back up and look where we are today... try and find a 18" wsw

Poor guy, trying to repair an American vehicle with inch threads. Today in the US we have access to lots of metric fasteners, but trying to find something special in metric would be a similar issue for us.

What are the opinions on using nuts with lock washers vs nuts with nylon inserts. Also on a trailer like this one the fastners are low and will catch a lot of road dabris... I would probably go with stainless....... I buy stainless fastners online in bulk and they are fairly cheap.

You should not need to do anything with the radiator filler or cap. The hose from the filler goes to the recovery tank. Depending on your choice of recovery tanks, some have the hose line molded into the tank, if not the hose should go to the bottom of the tank.

Seems everything has been hit with cost reductions and poor labor. Now you know how the airlines feel about the 737