ronbarn

Try this - right hand drive was picked up from the horse and buggy days. Most drivers, then as now, are right handed. That's the hand they used to carry the whip for the horses. Now imagine that you are driving a buggy, it is obviously better to have the whip outside the vehicle rather than inside, especially if you may have passengers in the back. Many of the tiller cars could easily be considered as left or right. The Model T was "always" LH, except for export cars some of which were RH. Most cars that were originally RH finally switched about 1914, for example the Hudson, but Stutz held out until around 1922. I have found no evidence that the original use of RH was ever the influence of the British choice of RH since they drove on the left side of the road. One of the most frequent question I get when I drive my 1911 Hudson is, "Was Hudson a British car with the RH steering?" Amazing that they do no know that the Hudson was very American!

Promo model history goes well back into the 19th century when miniatures were carried by a wide variety of traveling salesmen. However, for cars, one of my favorite pieces of history for promos dates to 1921. Marmon had limited display for the auto show in New York. Factory shop apprentices were instructed to build 1/4 scale models, two for each of the eight body styles offered for the 1921 Model 34B, plus at least two 1/4 scale engines. These models were well received by the public. Several still exist in the Los Angeles County Museum of Natural History and I have one of the engines.

Ron, I keep an old car bulb horn on the wall of my barn. When I finish a small project I press on the bulb a couple of times to signal that "I finished something"! I guess I'll wear out the rubber bulb if I ever finish a big project.

OldOlds, You have received some very good advice on this thread, but for my money the one just prior to this regarding photos and zip bags rates as number one. Even if you decide immediately after disassembly that you will probably replace the hardware (for example I never reuse lock washers) bag everything. That way you will know exactly what to get when assembly time comes. PLAN your restoration carefully - at least the sequence of activities. You can try to put dates on the plan, but be aware (and this is not a joke) a well planned restoration take only three or four times longer than you expect and a poorly planned restoration takes a lot longer. Be patient and set up your plan in small chunks (i.e., instead of saying rebuilt the engine, say rebuild the generator, rebuild the generator, rebuild the starter, etc., until you have the whole engine rebuilt) to you can see progress. Good luck!

Good thread, if a little multi-subject. By the definition of one threader, I am a collector of Marmons (5). And I agree that doing the wood in a frame is relatively easier than a woodie wagon since I am also doing one of those (a 1949 Keller). Maybe I missed it in my reading, but no one mentioned Kwik-Poly. It is a great product for "repair" of wood that is not completely rotted to the point when it must be replaced. It is amazing to see what can be done with wood that will not be visible or painted, but not a whole lot of help with the woodie wagon.

Good points are made by many of these posts, especially as related to winning an AACA award as "certification" of authenticity. What about certification from the government. Just the other day I saw an ad for a '34 Mercedes. It doesn't take a rocket scientist to immediately identify this as a replicar, especially when the ad says it has a Chevy 350 drive train. But some state DMV did allow it to be registered and titled as a 1934 Mercedes! Would be a very interesting discussion if the owner of this vehicle showed up at an AACA meet with his title and used that to justify showing it in the classic class.

I am using my second Backyard Buddy. The current one was bought because I got a car that was too big for the first. Have looked at several others (no names mentioned) and admire the intestional fortitude of the owners when they use their lift. When you can grab a post and easily shake the unloaded lift, I would be concerned about the stability when it has a car loaded. Take a careful look at how the locks on the posts work. Some are definitely inferior in engineering and construction. I highly recommend the Backyard Buddy based on seventeen years of use.

West, Thanks for the photos. This is a marvelous car and am waiting for the article. Meanwhile, could you or the owner (welcome to your un-lurking!) please explain the "gadget" just forward of the magneto that has six "terminals" around the upper edge and wires going back to the dash.

The original post asked about how many people attending Hershey actually belong to AACA. To do the math certain assumptions must be made. Rough estimates are that 250,000 to 300,000 people attend the Hershey Fall Meet. AACA Membership now is about 65,000 + or -. Out of that total membership, a good estimate of about 10-15% actually attend. We have a very active region here in North Alabama, but less than 10% will make the trip this year. Of course, all of the flea market spaces are assigned only to AACA members, but since members can have up to three spaces (more in the case of some of the larger commercial vendors, you cannot really say that the number of spaces available equals the number attending. On the second major thought in the thread, it is certainly to be expected to ask what AACA provides "me" for that amount of money (annual dues or life membership). It is too simplistic to just list the magazine and permission to show a vehicle. There are a lot of other things to consider, some direct and some indirect: 1. (Direct) Participating in tours as mentioned earlier. 2. (Direct) Services from the L&RC as mentioned earlier. 3. (Direct) Participating in the judging program either just for the education or actual judging. 4. (Direct) Participating with a local region or chapter (AACA membership is required) Some of the things that AACA does for members are more indirect and less tangible, for example: 1. Legislative efforts to support the hobby. 2. Membership development and Youth Programs. 3. Active relationships with other clubs to enhance hobby activities. 4. Active relationships with commercial operations to enhance hobby activities (such as literature publishers, insurance, tool and supply vendors, tire vendors, etc.) 5. And, don't forget, this web site and discussion forum is brought to you by AACA! I am confident that I may have missed a few items here, but collectively membership is a lot more than a magazine and a couple of car shows (and the Hershey Fall Meet). It is an investment in our hobby, and I think a darn good investment (especially since I got my Life Membership at $300). <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

I?ve heard that confession is good for your soul. Well after this, mine should be better. When I bought my 1911 Hudson it ran great. It started up on battery with 1/2 turn of the crank and ran so good on battery that I would sometime forget to switch to magneto. Then about 5 or 6 years ago, a problem started. It would start, but if I didn?t immediately run around and switch to magneto, the engine would die. So I started taking things apart to find the problem. I am a stickler for taking photographs, making notes, and marking parts during disassembly so when things are repaired and all back together again, everything will work. I thought I found the problem in the magneto, but after putting everything together I couldn?t get the engine to run ? not on battery and not on magneto. Nothing! One of my best friends always says that 95% of all carburetor problems are electrical. But that did not stop me from trying to blame the problem on the fuel system. So that was taken apart. I did not worry about the basic fuel flow since this is a gravity feed and my philosophy was that when gravity fails we have more problems to worry about than an old car not running. For the last five years I have disassembled, reassembled, taken photographs, made notes, and called friends and still could not get the car to run. I even read everything I could find on Bosch Duplex Magneto ignition, or thought I had ? nothing seemed to make sence. And then I found a scribbled note about two articles that appeared in the HCCA Gazette way back in 1992. They were written by an old friend of mine Greg Loftness. I dug into my stack of magazines and found those issues. I read them and they didn?t seem to help much ? I already knew all that. Or, at least I thought so. That night, as I was just approaching a state of sleep and recalled what Greg had in his articles, it dawned on me that for the Duplex system to work the polarity of the magneto has to be in sync with the polarity of the battery part of the ignition. Note in the previous paragraph I had been careful to photograph everything, but photographs do not show polarity. I had neglected to mark the original positions of the magnets. The next morning I ran out to the barn, pulled the magneto, turned the two magnets around, reinstalled the magneto, did all the standard start up steps ? transmission in neutral, gas on, spark retarded, pull the choke, grab the crank and pulled it up 1/2 turn ? and stood there in shock as I heard the engine start running just like it did years ago. Early in the ?repair process?, I must have reversed the magnets on the magneto. Somewhere in the process I must have ?repaired? the original problem, but the reversed magnets prevented me from finding out. The car is now loaded in the trailer and Thursday will be heading for the Reliability Tour in New Hampshire ? Harry Hudson is on the road again!

Few of the cars of that era had external mirrors, but in hindsight desparately needed them. If you intend to show the car, be prepared to justify this accessory. If you intend to use it primarily as a tourer or driver, I go along with the previous reply. That's what I use on my '34 Chevy. A lot cheaper and does the job. The next possibility is a long walk/search at Hershey.

I have a Schebler on my Marmon. Am sure it is not the same as yours since my engine is about half the size of the ALF, but it is the same general vintage. It has one interesting design feature that you might want to check for on yours. The needle valve for mixture control on most carbs is a straight in-out screw control. The rule of thumb I use when I have no idea where the control is (as it relates to proper position, is to turn the needle in until is seats and then back it off 1 1/2 turns. This will usually let the engine start and you can make fine adjustments from there. My Schebler needle valve is moved by a worm drive with the control on the outside (not a direct adjustment). I marked the gear on the needle valve rod and then seated the needle. Then, looking through the top (aux. air valve) turned the outside control until the needle gear moved 1 1/2 turns. This took about 20 turns. The car started well and fine adjustments were easily made once I understood that this arrangement is much less sensitive to small turns of the control. If your Shebler does not have this arrangement, please disregard this post.

If you add "incorrigible" to Maslow's Hierarchy of Needs just above "Self Esteem", then you have it all. Steve, thanks for adding me to the list. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

I visited Mobile Traditions in May and spent a good deal of time with the man who is working on the Flottweg. He is already trying to find me a carb. They bought their bike from a man that operates a museum in Bad Brukenau. He also has a Flottweg and after visiting him during our trip is also hunting for a carb. I met the guys from Mobile Traditions at Hershey thanks to Paul Ianuario (they parked in my spaces) and they gave Sally and me a super tour of their facility. Thanks for the tip - still looking.

Thanks for the heads up Steve! I'll be adding Flash Light Sales to my booth for the tradiditional Night Time Corral Tour. On second thought I'll bet Hershey Region will ban flashlight sales since they will want to make the extra money. Bob, Are those flashlights certifiably aged to meet the flea market regulations?

Did the same thing back in 1991. Wanted to show one of my mopeds and missed the registration by one day. Got a call from the meet chairman explaining how sorry she was that she could not accept my late registration. There I was, the AACA President, and could not even get them to bend the rules. In all honesty, I did not even try. It was my fault and rules are rules - especially for the Fall Meet at Hershey.

The Flottweg company was bought by BMW in the late '20s or early '30s. They thought the bike would be appropriate for their collection although is was made well before the purchase.

I made a mistake in my last post - my Prius has 69,000+ miles. No problems with the main batteries (high voltage set) and they are guaranteed for eight years. I did have a problem early on with the 12 Volt battery. It went dead twice within the first few months. I had gotten sloppy closing the doors. They need to be firmly and completely closed, or the interior lights will stay on and run the small battery down. Once I figured that out and forced myself to close the doors right - no problem. My on-board computer show that in the winter (without AC) I get about 44.7 to 44.8 mpg. With AC on, I get 44.3. I have not kept figures on gas consumption for the whole 69,000 miles, but several time have checked it on trips and the computer is pretty close. Mileage is better in town, but mileage on the road is still pretty darn good. As for performance, I can easily keep up with highway traffic. Have had it up to 90, but normally drive on the interstate at 65-75. I have no trouble with acceleration. I normally leave a stoplight at a moderate speed, but can out perform most cars if I am in such a mood (or want to show off). Dashboard displays are designed to help you guage you driving habits to do better, I live in the country so most of my trips to town are a minimum of about 50 miles round trip. This performance is certainly NOT based on 34,500 two-mile trips. Thus, I would not be inclined to spend money on the conversion unit.

The check for $283.26 (includes shipping and handling) will be in the mail tomorrow for two 6" reflectors, or Mangin Mirrors. Thanks for the info about Lancaster Glass.

Al, It appears that you keep hearing that BS because you are talking to the wrong people. As mentioned in another post, the computer system on the Prius senses when the batteries need charging. The engine then powers the car and charges the batteries at the same time and then when the batteries are charged they will share the responsibility for powering the car depending on load, speed, AC operation, etc. This is all done automatically and you do NOT have to stop after so many miles to charge the battery. I have 63,000 miles on my Prius and have never had to stop to charge the batteries. However, even with excellent gas mileage, there are limitations - I do have to stop sometimes to fill the gas tank! A "Hybrid" by definition should never have the limitations of an "Electric" car.

Restorer32 - Thanks for the tip and phone number. I just got off the line, but unfortunately the man that handles that department is gone for the day. They will call me back tomorrow morning, hopefully with the good news that they have two 6" Mangin mirrors in stock. Bob, these are for the 1911 Hudson.

I need to replace the thick glass reflectors in a pair of brass headlights. They are six inches in diameter. Am searching for a source or recommendation for a suitable replacement.

Flottweg is a moped made in Germany in the '20s. Three examples are currently known - one in the BMW Museum in Germany, one in a small bicycle/moped museum, also in Germany, and mine. The engine is above the front wheel with chain drive to a planetary transmission in the front hub. Am trying to find a carb and until then the restoration is on hold with no known date for completion.

Since I am one of the ones that stirred the bucket (and was asked to retire because of my attitude) I also offer my congrats. I suspected that was the car and in fact spent some time talking to you about the interesting features. I think our judges did well by you and the unusual vehicle. Hope the same happens when I show my Flottweg.

Eric, Am glad to see your active involvement in this website. I consider Harold and Corkey as friends and like some of the other responders have used Coker tires for years. Just please work with your sales staff to tell them the difference between the large flaps that are needed on the older spoked wheels and those skinny little "flaps" used on newer wheels. When people order flaps, be sure to identify the vintage of the car and the types of wheels and don't automatically assume that the skimply little thin narrow flaps are adequate. They are not. Otherwise, thanks for coming on here.