Rock10

I'd think hot running is the best. It's a little messy and takes some practice, but you know you got the right clearance.

Wanting to buy I assume?

He has the price. $7500.

I tried to get that pin out on my 36 practice distributor. Beating drilling and heating, not a slight budge. ☹️

I did on our 36 with the blessings and aid of several in the forum.

What does something like that cost? What would be wrong with using the J B weld method?

I guess quiet is relative.

Can you JB weld those ears back on? I used it to fix a cracked block and stick a big hole saw bit back on the spindle. You can drill and file it.

You could check the cam lobe with a dial indicator, but I have no idea where to find the travel spec.

I would suspect a bad drum.

https://www.harborfreight.com/fuel-pump-and-vacuum-tester-62637.html?campaignid=12144811130&adsetid=117789279118&product=62637&store=743

Should be able to check the tank side of the pump for vacuum and the carb side for pressure. That will tell you if it's working.

Finally got it back together again! Thanks again to pont35cpe. for all the advice. Hope to have it on the road next weekend for the James Dean festival.

I think we are going to use it. Just have to make new holes.

Any thoughts on the extra gasket?

I'd be worried in that oil rich environment, the patch would fail.

Here are some pics of the ball and retainer. Some pits on both but not in the main wipe area. We had the small gasket included in our kit. It fits on the end of the ball where it meets the driveshaft but the holes don't line up. Is there supposed to be a gasket there in 36? Lastly, saw these marks stamped into the ball flange. Any Idea what they mean?

Ebay has become very buyer friendly. You can get your money back easily. It was not as advertised. Just my 2 cents . 🙂

BTW, I did find the rear shock link bushings at Old Buick Parts.(CARS)

It has some pits in 2 spots but they aren't where the seal rides. I'll post some pics tomorrow.

Hey, we got it apart today. Thanks again Pont35cpe. Now trying to figure out how it goes back together. The instructions from Bob's talk about a bevel spring that fits against the seal. We don't have one. I'm going to check the other torque ball threads but they are mostly newer models. The service manual is useless. Any help would be appreciated.

Well that's great news. I"ll work on that method tomorrow. Thank you soooo much. Jeff

I would pay less attention to the light and marks and go for what runs the best. Just my 2 cents worth. 🙂

Our torque ball seal is leaking so I started on the replacement today. It has not gone well. Many questions. I've seen other posts saying to drop the entire rear end and pull it back slightly to give the clearance necessary. I started with the shocks. I remove the nut on the downlink on the passenger side. It was tough, but it came off. Moved to the drivers side and the nut was rounded off. It had been loosened but not removed. The bushings on both sides need replaced. Are these available? I looked at the shackles to see how to drop the springs. It looks like I have to take them loose from the frame and the spring to get them out, right? Then the brackets holding the hand brake cable to the frame. Half of those bolts have rounded off. I'm not sure where to support the frame with jack stands when I lower the rear end. I had them about 10 inches in front of the shackle but when I lowered the jack, the whole car seemed to pivot backwards lowering the rear body. How much tension is on the leaf springs? Do I lift the housing and remove the shackles or lower it and let it hang? Thanks Jeff