Rock10

Too late on the eyes. 🤕 I did try to shoot some in. I can't see it coming out anywhere. When I blow air into the bottom of the pump well, it doesn't seem to come out anywhere in the carb throat. There are small copper tubes curling around the venturis on the outside. I think those are supposed to be the discharge tubes, but nothing comes out. Like I said, this worked fine before. Don't know what happened.

I can't get any fuel to pump out. Where is it supposed to discharge? I took the power valve out and it still won't pump. Could the passage be clogged. Is the plunger on the power valve supposed to go down below the slot? This worked before.

Well, I need .048" and I don't think they make a bit exactly that size. I have a .043" bit that fits easily in all 4 jets I'm checking. I'm pretty sure they are all the same size and that's what I was looking for. I may check around locally and see if I can find maybe a #56 and #55 bit for a go/no combination. We had thought that someone may had changed the jets at some point before we got the car. They are all stamped .048, but as carbking said, "NEVER BELIEVE ANYTHING STAMPED ON A JET! "

How do you measure the jet?

Wouldn't that have to soak up a lot of power? I wonder how many watts?

1110801 is for a 1938 (all series) through 1948 (most series) at least. That's as far as my book goes.

All of my 663s have two pins.

https://www.menards.com/main/hardware/fasteners-connectors/specialty-fasteners/metal-fastening-pins/midwest-fastener-reg-1-8-x-1-tension-pins-1-count/80665/p-1444440041415-c-8902.htm?tid=-2826937121539166089&ipos=37

The upper pin only turns the distributor shaft. The bottom one turns the oil pump. I would only use a solid one on the bottom.

I don't know that roll pins were available back then.

The pin that holds the shaft is not under that much strain is it? I've seen other models of distributors that use roll pins for both holes from the factory.

I just did the same thing to the ends of the roll pin. I think it should be OK.

Getting the angle right was the big problem.

I had trouble getting ours to line back up. You have to get the splines in the right place and the right angle. I finally got the floor jack under the rear end at the right height while I was putting pressure on the come along and slightly rotating the shaft by hand until it popped in.

That's the plan once I get the main jets out and back in.

Are the main metering jets usually replaced in a rebuild?

What is the price for a rebuild kit. I made the slotted screwdriver tool to remove the power valve, but I don't know how it was installed originally. We are looking to buy a tool to remove the jets.

I have one check ball valve and one power by pass jet as pictured below. The ball moves freely in the check valve. I'm not sure how to test the power jet. The center post moves easily down and springs back up. The plunger seems OK. it's only been installed for less than a year. There was some gunk around power jet that I've cleaned out. Haven't tested anything yet.

36 Buick Series 40 Stromberg EE1

Thanks. I'll look.

Yes. The pump plunger. It may need replaced. I haven't got the carb back together to test it yet. I was wondering if it was available by itself. Don't need a whole kit. Still trying to get the main jets out.

Check valve in the very bottom had some crap on it. I have clean that up. The check ball seems OK. Is there a separate accelerator pump available.

Does anyone know how to remove the main jets in a 1936 Series 40 Stromberg carb?

I was worried about using a roll pin until I realized the only stress on that pin is the turning of the shaft and rotor. The bottom pin drives the oil pump. I used a roll pin from Menards for my 663Y.