Rock10

Head gasket leak wouldn't get better when it warmed up.

No, the felt piece that goes in the side of the housing under the spring and screw. It's shown as the shaft brake in the drawing at the start of this thread. END PLAY I tore down 3 units. There is a washer stack described by Gary W above. two had the thrust washer plus two steel shim washers, one had the thrust washer and only one steel washer. The steel washers are shims and were available in .005 and .010. I just wondered if there was a spec I could measure before I put them back together. Thanks

Does anyone know what the end play on the distributor should be? Also what function does the felt "shaft brake" serve? Thanks

I'm rebuilding 3 distributors. That's nine balls. 5 were .250, 2 were .228, and the other 2 were different smaller sizes. So I ordered some new balls. Had to order 50 so if anybody needs a replacement, let me know. Should be here by Monday.

That's a big motor. Sad there probably aren't too many out there.

344 wow. And they hand cranked them?

Wow, that's a lot of drilling.

That was a good day. I need one. Somebody replaced it with a smaller ball. I measured mine at .228 inches.

Does anybody know the size of the steel balls?

Here are my 663f vacuum units cleaned up and ready to send to the re-builder.

He doesn't have any for the 36 S 40. (663F) I probably will for the 663Y I'm rebuilding. That's the one with the slow leak. The two I have for the 36 won't hold any vacuum. I found a place in TX that will rebuild them. I'm thinking of going in that direction, but he has an 8 week backlog.

To get the car running while I find a replacement.

Don't want to hijack this great thread, but I do have another question. I have 3 vacuum advance units. 2 won't hold any vacuum. 1 will hold, but leaks off slowly. Since the engine is providing constant vacuum when you need it, won't that one still work?

Would 1/8" steel rod work?

Any source for a solid pin?

This is really great stuff as I am trying to rebuild 3 distributors right now. Couple more questions. Did you use a solid or split roll pin, where did you get it and how did you stake it? What did you use for felt in the shaft hole and under the rotor? Thanks again. Jeff

Where did you find an Allen wrench short enough to get to the octane thing. Mine are all too long to get under the housing.

OK, the fuel valve is new. Was replaced with the new needle seat. OK, those were probably the balls in the old kit. The new kit we got was from Bob's (sorry). No balls. I'll try to rig a pressure gauge to check at idle speed. We checked it at cranking speed and it was under 4. Thanks again.

Is there and exploded view showing all the parts?

Jon, Thanks for the input. (1) We have a new coil, points, condenser and cap. The sparks seems hot. Not sure how to test that. (2) No electric pump. (3) Where is the fuel valve? (4) Float is adjusted. If anything, may be too low. (5) Float is good. What other pictures or numbers could I get? The carb had been rebuilt when we got the car but had been sitting for years, so I took it apart and cleaned it up. We got another kit and I put it back together. In the box of extra stuff we got with the car was the remains of the kit the original owner used. There were some small metal balls in it. Those weren't in the carb when I took it apart. Are there any check balls in this carb? Thanks again. Jeff

Thanks for this.

Where on top of the bowl?

Will any of these pictures help identify what we have?

I'll have to check the numbers on the carb again. Thanks for all the info.

We are looking for a rebuildable carb for the 36 series 40. I believe it's supposed to have a Stromberg EE1. Right now we have a Stromberg from a Ford. The car runs, but too rich. I think the venturis are bigger on the Ford. We are going to try Dave tomorrow, but I thought I would put out some feelers tonight. The only thing I've found online is a rebuilt one for about $700. I hope we can do better. Thanks