supercub

Looks like tar! I ordered both pan gaskets. Going to put 10W30 in it. The head says 202 on the top of it. I ordered a new temp sender on ebay. It was the only one I could find. I lucked out at NAPA, they let me look in the back for some preformed radiator hoses and I found ones that will mate up. I brought all new coolant hoses. I havent looked at the brake fluid yet. Everything has to be looked at to have confidence. Someone had replaced the brake flex hoses. Hopefully the brake fluid is new but I will have to check it out.

I can change it for 10W30. Unless the engine is really sludgy inside, but probably its not. But yes, for the winter, I need 10W30. I disassembled the blower motor, it was pretty rusty inside, but I cleaned it up pretty well so far. Need some electrical contact cleaner to clean the armature. The shaft end is stuck inside of the end cap, I have some PB Blaster soaking in there, not getting it on the windings. I'll use dome synthetic oil on the bushing and maybe replace the end bearing if I can find one.

Thats tonights rainy night project.

I have a bunch of Lily Pons 78's throughout her career. She is my favorite soprano. Thanks for sharing the pics and her car history.

I ordered the engine and trans pan gaskets from Ace. I got the heater blower motor out. It was locked up from sitting but now is turning but hard. Going to disassemble and clean it, hopefully its salvagable. It doesnt have brush ports do it must be the permanent magnet type.

Ive had new condensers fail in a short time but most often a bad one just results in rough running when they heat up and not a complete failure.

The oil on the stick looks pretty clean but I found Shell SAE30, going to start with that, with a clean oil pan.

Someone replaced the temp sensor, I believe with the wrong one. I put a 10 ohm resistor across it and the gauge registers about 3/4 to hot. I read somewhere that this is a common mistake, that the tapered thread has to be opened to the next size for a correct replacement. The thread measures .535". I havent removed the wire to do the upper and lower gauge limit resistance test with the 9 and 11 ohm resistors yet. One thing that comes to mind, the teflon tape could be preventing continuity?

Very cool!

Does the grommet actually transfer power like a u-joint?

My Wasp really is a Hash, the door handles are different on each side. I just noticed! I think someone swapped the right side doors, the handles are the lift-up type.

The Twin H had 15 more HP than the single carb 100hp. It has a different cam and higher compression. The Wasp doesnt seem too wide to me, and I drive a Yaris. I looked at my electricals. The terminal block is getting power at both legs. The radio fuse, 9A, is blown. The heater fan pot is getting power. The fan has no continuity to ground and is unresponsive to jumped battery power. I need to remove it, will that require a complete dissassembly of the heater box? Missing the bulb for the glove box and one under dash bulb. I found the tiny toggle switch to turn them on, so cool! The dash lights arent working, havent checked that out yet. Looks like the oil pan should drop straight down after removing the skid plate. Will it be hard to reassemble, getting the pickup tube back into the oil pump?

Its pretty wide but the Hollywood Hornet I looked at was even wider, and longer. It had a V8, ran almost silent but had an oil leak, looked like rear main. Was out of my price range anyway but only in the next town so I went for a look. I scoured the whole underneath with a bright light and my phone camera when I went to see it, the only rust spot was on the right rear door skin. Looking at a partial view of the oil pan in the manual, it looks like the pick-up is within the oil pan and the tube end fits into the oil pump like a water tube fits into an outboard lower unit? Does the trunnion have a rubber grommet that could perish? Have to take a look. They say that switching to synth oil on an old car can lead to oil seepage, did you notice any or is your engine freshly rebuilt?

I may pull the pan off and clean it. If the pan is clean without sludge, perhaps I would use 10W30 in it for this winter. May pull the pan on the trans also. Im not in a hurry to start putting miles on it, I have to deal with the DMV with appointments, 2 trips there and a vin check, plus getting tires on it. In the mean time I will sort out the issues. The hood and doors need adjustment to seam match. Alot of cleaning and waxing. Things that I can do and enjoy, with some beers and tunes.It looks a little better with just a wash.

I did join the hetclub. I was looking into oil types, the manual states SAE20 for winter, I havent found any for engine use, at 47,000 miles, would it be risky to use a multi grade oil? Maybe I need to remove the oil pan and check for sludge to make a decision.

I picked up this Wasp, its got 47,000 miles on it, 202 with hyrdramatic. The engine runs real smooth and clean. The body is solid, just one rust spot along the bottom of the right rear door. Came with 3 Hudson service manuals incl. the transmission manual. From what I see, It has had a new head gasket, wires, plugs, gas line and filter at the tank end, rear shocks, brake flex lines. All of the lights are working except for the under dash lamp and missing bulb for the glove box lamp. I wound the clock and its keeping time. It needs new tires. The temp gauge, radio, and heater blower are not working. The shifting is a little harsh. The paint needs a good waxing and some touching and I'll live with it. I found some tires that seem to be tbe best available fit at walmart, Nankang 165/80R15. They are 25.6"OD, the stock spec is 6.70-15, 27" OD.

Early autonomous conversion...

I paid $5900 for it. Someone had recently replaced the rear shocks, brake flex lines, exhaust, head gasket, plugs and wires, radiator probably recored, and the carb was rebuilt. It needs tires. The radio, clock, heater fan and temp gauge arent getting power or are disfunctional. All else works. The car ran for about 20 minutes, maybe not enough to register on the temp gauge. The wiring diagram I found online shows various fuses. Included in the trunkare the FSM, parts book, and another repair book, look to be dated about the same as the car. Havent got it delivered yet, cant wait to get into it.

I just brought this Wasp today. It was on Craigslist. Its solid and runs well. Needs some sorting but not bad. Funny how someone chose red with a blue interior. I'll try the McGuires on it. I'll start a thread on it soon.

I just joined the forum. I just brought a 55 Wasp. Its real solid and runs good, 48,000 miles. I have some electrical issues to iron out, and need to replace the old coker tires.