supercub

I bet you went for the jalapeno garlic.

Yeah who would think...

I can see the plunger rods in the peep holes, both styles have the same rods. I lubed the mechanisms, and all four work really smooth. The mounting is a little different for each but I can work that out.

We dont have have any old school junkyards around here anymore. Are lefts and rights the same?

My Wasp 4 door has it's right outside doors and handles from a Nash Statesman, I would like to change the handles to the correct push button style. Does anyone have a set for sale?

Funny to see jumpers in the trunk of a 6V car, who would have the luck to find someone with a 6V car to jump from?

Got my tank hammered out, cleaned and resealed by a radiator shop in East Hartford, CT. I just have to paint it. I sent my fuel sender out to be rebuilt, it died. It was working but I think the bimetallic strip was weak, when it was working it seemed inaccurate.

The thing hanging down with the old cloth tape wrapped around it is the broken off piece of the brake cable that would pull the rear brakes to stop the car in the event of a hydraulic failure. The other end is still attached to the ebrake junction. I want to fix that, I have a sailboat rigger in my town that can make one for me unless I can find one nos. I like the feature. Didn't know the car had it, the manual doesn't describe it.

I drained the fluid, it was clean. I may have to wait until warmer weather to jack it up on all fours to get under it outside but in the meantime I will change the fluid.

Yea I think it has to be jacked up

I would like to pull the hydromatic fluid pan off to clean and replace the gasket, does anyone know if the pan would clear the crossmember? Its a little hard to see, but the gap between the pan shoulder and the crossmember lip is less than tbe pan shoulder height and I can see from the manual that the pan is pretty populated.

The cap as a spring loaded seal plate that retracts to an open area for venting when screwed onto the filler.

I will do the air test tonight. The cap looks to be made pre-China. The workmanship and hardware, as well as the dried up seal, appear 50's. There could have been a different cap on it originally. The other model Hudson tanks that Ive seen online had hose nipples on the tank top for a vent line.

I just figured out the real source of the particles. When I first changed the coolant, I brought it from walmart. I opened the jug and noticed that the tin foil seal had been opened. I looked inside and saw fresh green antifreeze so I poured it in the radiator. It was dark out. Next went in a gallon of distilled water and from there more was added from a fresh unbreached jug. I found the old jug in my shed yesterday and poured out the little bit on the bottom onto a paper towel and found the same particles. Someone had used leak sealer and drained it out into the jug and returned it to walmart. Now Im stuck with a ton of sludge in my system that Ive read that isnt removable. I did get the particles out of the radiator and heater element.

I actually cancelled an appt I had with the seller for the Wasp. Later that night I found the Not Mine post for it while looking at google images. The post had more pictures and I could see that it had been registered when the owner himself had it posted on craigslist. So, the next day I went and brought it.

I looked at the cap and there isnt a venting feature on it.

I removed my gas tank for restoring, and I dont see any vent system on the tank or body. There are ports for the sender, pickup line and filler neck. The filler neck joins to the tank with a rubber tube about 4" long. That hose and its clamps are newer replacements. The gas cap looks original with the chrome H design, no vent holes on it. Everything looks original on this car, 42,000 miles on it. Does anyone know how the Wasp tank is vented?

I had to pull my heater blower motor out due to squealing and noticed that the heater element was full of brass grindings from ???. He didnt rinse the radiator out very good. It looked fine when I picked it up but I should have rinsed it myself to be sure. He also painted over the residues and the paint was starting to come off of it. I removed the radiator to flush it out and sanded it down for repainting. The system will have to be flushed out and thats a pita in this cold weather.

I have my gas tank out of the car. The lining is peeling away and it has alot of dents on the bottom. I have poured natural clay kitty litter inside to absorb the gas fumes. I will knock out the dents as much as possible and clean the inside with soapy water using driveway stones to dislodge as much of the loose lining as possible.

I havent driven it yet after adjusting but the wheel turns freely lock to lock with no play anywhere. All of the ball joints are good. One front wheel bearing is a little sloppy but not bad.

The bolt did allow full tightening without the steering being overly tight. The star is constrained by the raised boss of the adjacent bolt. I bent it up and took some force but its a good safety check. It could be that the smaller one is for lube. I could remove it and siphon out the old lube maybe? I pulled the gas tank out, it had a leak on top when the tank was full, the bottom is dented, and I wanted to check the inside. The coating on the inside has peeled away in big pieces. Im not sure but it looks like the factory sealant because it was a very even thin coating, silver glossy plastic looking stuff. The exposed metal isnt that rusty. I put a piece of the coating in acetone to see if it dissolves. If so, I can remove it all and recoat with Caswell, or just scrape out the loose stuff and clean it out. I think I can remove most of the dents by accessing through the filler hole. The leak I am sure was due to dried up sealant at the outlet tube flange.

The bolt in the middle of the cover was loose, I tightened it and the play went away, the steering feels about right, not tight, not sloppy. There is a star washer under the bolt, it was never bent up to retain the bolt. I bent it up but the star is just loosely restrained by the nut next to it, but it should be fine. I dont know what the side nut does but it has a small tab sticking out of it. This box sounds more like the Rambler one described in the manual, I dont think there are shims under the cover. I would like to change the lube but unsure how, and its really hard to see down there. Probably wont take the car out for a week anyway to try out, until the salt gets washed off of the roads.

I have some up and down end play in the steering box, the pitman arm shaft can be seen moving up and down, with some wheel play. Reading in the manual, it describes the adjustment as removing a shim from under the box cover. If I loosen the screws to remove a shim, should I expect that the cover would be spring loaded? Could I remove the cover completely to make it easier to remove the shim? It is in tight quarters. Also I would like to change the lubricant.

I want to clean in the valve pocket as another project, checking the valve clearances and freeing the manifold thermo shaft. Someone I met actually suggested pouring kerosine in the pan to dilute the sludge, draining and then change the oil as opposed to dropping a pan, I thought to myself thats suicidal. I have never been a fan of adding anything to oil or gas for any reason, for magic benefits. I got the pan back on after cleaning the pan and pickup nozzle, painting the pan and skidplate.

Yes, I am. Its nice to know that its clean, and to get rid of the leaks.