supercub

The car is cool, the hose looks sketchy.

I've seen those as part of a phonograph, 40s era.

The hand cranked portables are great for picnics and would match up to a 20 or 30s car. I have a bunch of the later 78s that were made into the 50s that I would use as they are more durable. Probably not practical for playing while driving but for parking listening. Maybe a custom made 50s look under dash unit using a kids portable battery operated as 6v motor, turntable and tapping into the car radio for sound with a higher grade cartridge.

I've seen 45rpm ones on Ebay but not 78s.

Has anyone ever seen a 78rpm player that was an accessory to a 6V car? It would be cool to play some 78s in my Wasp.

If the tank retrofit doesnt look real ugly, I would leave as is and invest (dispose) of money on things that will make it a reliable and good looking car. I would stay away from any acid based bottom treatments.

Its a fuel screen.

My Hudson FSM for the hydramatic says that it can be push started at 20mph. I think the battery explosion is from the cell separators giving out from the induced 12v, that would short out the cells.

My Wasp fuel pump has this hex bolt on the bottom, does anyone know if it's a drain, a screen filter, or other?? It's right next to the hose where it's printed fuel line. The pic is upside down for some reason, but it faces down.

It's my favorite body style and vintage really, for my next car, a Plymouth or a straight 8 Buick of the same style.

I agree, they must have worked fine back in the day. I had a 6V bike that started just fine, after sorting out the wiring issues, the headlight gave a good brilliance and it started easily, worked just as good as a 12V.

Restored, my car would command a high price too!

I like the car, the price is reasonable. It would barely fit in my garage though, it would be head to toe tight in there.

Yeah right

Interesting, I've never heard of an 8v battery before.

I was about 75 ft away, I saw a small submarine propulsion battery explode, lithium ion, that was in a test chamber resembling a walk in cooler, it blew the door off of it, contaminated the factory. It was the largest lion battery made at the time, around 2007.

My 55 Wasp has a noticable amount crud in the cooling system. I removed the radiator and heater core and flushed them. I will flush the system first with the heater core bypassed. Does anyone have any opinions about the safety of flush solutions on head gaskets or water pump seals?

The hyrdomatic can be push started at 20mph, getting there is a challenge.

Interesting stories. The only think I can see going wrong with a well maintained car is leaving the lights on and parking. I wouldn't attempt a jump my car, I dont need any more repairs than those that just come along naturally.

I wouldn't try it myself.

I have seen alot of of old car ads on CL and Hemmings that show jumper cables in the trunk. Are they thinking that there is a good chance that another old car may be around to jump them, or is it possible to jump a 6V car with a 12V? I wouldn't think so but just curious. I just assumed that if I my battery went dead, I would have to lug it home and charge it.

Thanks I will try Don.

Does anyone know if the outside door handles can be removed without going into the door itself? There is a visible screw inside the door edge that holds the handle on the aft end. I was wondering if the forward end clips onto the door skin as the Wasp handles do. Thanks

Still looking for a set of right side door handles if anyone has any for sale.

Was the inner race spinning on the shaft, causing the groove on the radius or do loose bearings ride on the radius? It almost looks like the shaft is burnished from a loose race running on it. As far as the nut being loose, there should be a torque for it, and a side runout range to set it to so the bearing doesnt overheat.