supercub

Thanks Dennis!

I reset the float and gas still comes out of the accelerator tube when the carb is tilted slightly. I think the flat sealing float valve that came with the kit is a bad idea. The fuel level must be way too high. I will replace it with a regular taper point needle float valve. Do you have any brand recommendations?

Thanks Jon, I will reset the float. The Carter document is nice to have.

My carb is a WAI-2009-SA. I made a 7/16 gage. The service manual states to measure bowl cover and top of float but the WAI diagram shows measuring from the wall on the cover to the upper float solder seam. Which is correct?

I bench tested my carburetor with a small gas tank to feed it. It doesnt leak while sitting flat but if I tilt it up 15 degrees as if the car was going uphill, gas flows out of the throat accelerator tube nozzle. I ultrasonic cleaned all of the parts and assembled with new float valve assembly, pump plunger and gaskets. I set the float height according to the kit instructions. The Delta kit has a flat rubber float valve seal as opposed to a pointed float needle. The accelerator pump works. I found info on the older Carter W1 carbs and it stated that the accelerator had an overbleed feature that would allow some extra fuel to flow after acceleration. Perhaps I should check the fuel level? Carbking do you know what the level should be? Or have any ideas why the fuel would flow out of the accelerator nozzle at a slight incline?

Thanks Jon! The spring seems plenty strong, the Delta kit didnt include the spring.

The metering rod on my carb is attached to a linkage that has a spring plunger on it that goes into the float bowl. The rod is normally held upward by the spring pressure. The rod should Be down into the jet at lower speeds, does vacuum pull the plunger down? The pin on the linkage would pull it up if it wasnt held up by the spring. The 2nd picture shows the rod control tab above the linkage pin.

There is a nicely restored example of this car in my family.

Neat, thanks for sharing.

My favorite T at a good price.

WTB Heat riser block for a 55 Hudson Wasp 202 single carb Model.

I am rebuilding my frozen heat riser system. The vane blocks off the last three cylinders' exhaust and routes it thru the heat riser block under the carb. How much preload in the cold state should the thermo spring have? I can push with my finger through the manifold on the vane at its closed position, should there be a firm resistance? Just trying to gauge how firm it should be before I reassemble. It opens up with some heat from a heat gun.

Does anyone know where in New London, CT the Cameron Car Company was located? I lived there for several years just curious.

A true Dale car!

The sprocket drive thing looks interesting

Thanks for the information!

I'll give it a try thanks

Thanks

I have a 20s Marvel Schebeler carb that I have some questions about. How many turns out is a good baseline for the main mixture needle? What is the fuel level from the top of the carb body? The float height setting? Thank for your help.

Can anyone tell me the engine oil capacity for an oil change on my 1918 Maxwell? Also, when the steering column timing lever is up, is it advanced or retarded? Thanks

My 55 Hudson Wasp, alot cleaner looking than the later ones.

Looking for a demountable wheel for my 1918 for use as a spare.

I have a Rayfield for sale.

Thats fire!