Pfeil

Deluxe Six Touring Sedan 2619

Looks like a "B" body what is the body style #

I'd rather be safe. I would contact the tech advisor for this model car from the POCI Early Times chapter. POCI's monthly newsletter has the names and phone numbers of each model years tech advisor. Seems trivial but I would rather not mess up. James Patterson 315-652-5794

1940, on backwards another 1940 1939 below; 1938 below; 1940 below I think 1938 is the last of the old style that goes back to 1933

Pretty sure it pulls right up. Give it a twist from side to side. Make sure you clean the element in paint thinner or kerosene then fill it full of engine oil, turn over and let drip dry. install it with the "slot opening" facing the engine fan. Also, on the other side of the engine the road draft tube "might" have a filter on it and clean/oil that in the same fashion as well. Do this every oil change! This car doesn't happen to be a special six and black? was on BAT?

Is the pump going to be mounted next to the bottom of the tank? If it is it doesn't matter. There is no factory fuel filter in the area below the tank, however there IS a very fine mesh filter (sock) inside the tank around the discharge tube to the outside. As these cars age you should check that mesh screen and the inside of the tank periodically.

It can be done. About the only way to balance a wide five wheel (VW Beetle & type 2,3, etc., early Porsche, 30's early 40's Ford) is to balance a drum for said car then mount the wheel to the drum and balance the wheel. I have a balanced VW/Porsche drum just for that purpose. You can also do the same thing for the Pontiac eight lug drum/wheel.

Like I said before I can't remember anything outstanding, so I went over to my next-door neighbor, and he confirms what you have been saying. At the time 80-90's, we had similar jobs only his employer was at the GM tech center.

Probably so, but that has a lot to do with the manufacturer you are dealing with. The company I worked for didn't let the grass grow for any problem. Not like some that would say, " well, there's 1,000 cars out there with this problem so maybe we should do something about it". Some actually had a number before a red flag went up. 80's? I can't remember off hand anything that jumps out at me on electronics, not even pulse jet carburetors.

Actually, things weren't that simple. The horrible years were 1971-74 for manufacturers trying to certify. I was doing Ca. and Federal EPA testing in that time period. From overnight cold room-to on the dyno for seven mode driving cycle, seven bag testing. Things didn't get simple until catalytic converters in 1975 so that we were able to tune the cars for better driveability instead of trying to make engines pass on their own. As far as air pumps go, in the beginning the distribution of air to be effective was detrimental to exhaust valves on some designs, but later designs when used on catalyst equipped cars it wasn't important to direct air to the combustion chamber or exhaust valve port, but rather into the exhaust manifold anywhere because all we needed was O2 for the converter. As far as throwing away systems goes, I wouldn't be doing that. We are still testing cars back to 1967 in AZ., and in California the law requires all vehicles from 1966-1975 to have all their emission controls on the car and in working order in case the state wants to bring them back into testing if the state can't meet the air quality or carbon offset goals. In regard to removing equipment for AACA shows, stock is stock. As far as Federal equipped cars go, removal of emission equipment on any vehicle built after 1975 (the 1st year of catalytic converters in most instances) is illegal.

Here is a typical 2022 sedan specification. After an accident, how do you think they align a vehicle if there is no adjustment? Answer: there is adjustments, and also for rear suspension too. Front Caster. Min: 2.1. Pref: 2.8. Max: 3.6. Front Camber. Min: -0.01. Pref: -0.03. Max: 0.5. Front Toe. Min: -0.01. Pref: 0.01. Max: 0.05. SAI (Steering Axis Inclination) Min: 13.8. Pref: 14.6. Max: 15.3. Rear Camber. Min: 1.2. Pref: 0.7. Max: 0.2. Rear Toe. Min: 0.02. Pref: 0.04. Max: 0.06.

Car in question hasn't been run in weeks so? Get in car keep foot OFF accelerator pedal, crank engine until oil pressure swings past 40psi and at about the same time the engine will sputter. That's 20 seconds of cranking. Now the engine is oil primed, and the engine sputtered which tells me the carburetor is primed. Now I can give a couple of good squirts and the engine will fire right off. You don't want to fire off an engine without oil priming. You don't want to touch the accelerator pedal until there is fuel in the carburetor, if you do you will tear up the accelerator pump. Simple.

Craftsman used to be the go-to tool for sometimes one time use or modifying, but today it's Harbor Freight.

The reason I mentioned all the tools I have is because they can be very different for the same job. On end wrenches or combo box/open end wrench I have a hard time with my snap-on wrenches (bought in early 70's) because they are so slender (between ends) that they can really put a concentrated amount of pressure on the palm of your hand, so I will use a proto instead. Using the Snap-On valve adjusting tool for Nissan/Datsun L-series SOHC and Mercedes I-4, I-5, I-6 SOHC (both use the same tool) I find that the Kent-More special tool is the best because it's more stable when breaking the lock nut, and the opening will not spread. I found an image of the Snap/On one below! I have a whole drawer of modified box/ end wrenches that have been heated and bent or ground down to fit tight clearances, same with sockets. If you were making a living working on cars, you learned very quickly how to make things easier.

I like what Olds and Buick did with their styling decisions of those years. As a Pontiac fan I was disappointed with the Pontiac versions.

Hey John! I find what you say is true when it came to craftsman tools of the late 60's-80's. In that time period I bought Proto, Snap-On and Mac tools, and bought craftsman tools when it came to sacrificial tools that I knew would be a one-time deal. BUT, all or most of my quarter drive tools are craftsman. Those quarter drive tools were my mom's that she bought when she was working at Northrup in 1943, 44, 45 putting together B-25 Mitchell bombers. Those tools are high quality. I was using those quarter drives today disassembling a car for paint. When I use them, I always think of my mom. She's always with me in the shop along with my dad and grandfather and their tools.

I think you might be seeing it today in VW Beetle, strangely in replica cars, the Porsche speedster and 550 have already left the station. 914-1.7, 1.8 & 2.0 have surged while the 914-6 was always up there.

After buying my 62 Pontiac from the original owner I decided to look for the build sheet. I found it years later when I decided to restore it. It was located in the bows above the headliner.

Yes, that is like the filler portions of GM cars of the mid 70's onward. GM was using this as a fill measure between the chrome bumpers and the body like the ones that seem to go bad on Cadillac rear ends. The Nissan/Datsun are real /synthetic rubber though.

Just a FYI and not related specifically to this post. In 1941 Pontiac and Chevrolet enter a new "A" body 4 door car model into the "A" body lineup. It's styled with the same roof design as the "C" body which means no quarter glass behind the rear door for that formal roof. Pontiac calls it the Metropolitan Sedan. Here is the 41 "C" body custom; Here below is the new "A" body Metropolitain Sedan mid-year addition, The "B" body sedan with the rear quarter glass below

You don't paint over a rubber bumper, they came naturally flat black from the factory like you see in the picture, however there are some products that can be used to rejuvenate rubber. I posted the link to a fellow Datsun/Nissan enthusiast because the Z store has many products for that car of his, also if that bumper can be found in quantity or if someone gets around to reproducing it that company will most likely have it. It's called looking out for each other.

Series 29 is the "C" body. Cadillac, Buick, 90 series Olds, and Pontiac series 29. Built in coupe like the Green one in the picture below, and also in the four-door sedan below. That's all just two body styles. You can always tell these cars are "C" bodies. Door hinges concealed and the windshields are slanted further back <notice there is no quarter glass for a more formal rear passenger area. The car in question is a series 2827C is a "B" body deluxe eight-cylinder coupe. Built in Linden New Jersey. If it were a 2827B It would have been a deluxe eight-cylinder, single seat business coupe. "B" body 1940 shared by Buick, Olds, Pontiac.

Got to agree with you there. Had to go down to Phoenix this past Wednesday from Prescott. Took the 11-year-old daily driver sedan. A car that gets 41mpg at 72MPH (level ground) and can do 140 MPH. Going to lunch and driving around down there, and when I got back, took less than 1/4 tank round trip.

The only one that has the ability to sweep anything under the rug is the moderator.

Inspection? It needs an inspection? Why would it need an inspection?