retiredmechanic74

Start at the light switch and follow the harness that runs down the drivers side kick panel under the step sill under the rear carpet under the back seat and into the trunk and to the tail lights. The Green/White wire is broken somewhere in that harness (very possibility chewed through by a mouse) GM light sockets in those years had a ground connection that ran up the inside of the plastic lightsocket and grounded out the side of the bulb. Moisture would get into the connection and cause corrosion in the brass connector to the wire and most often would rot off the connection. This can be repaired but it would be better to replace the socket assemblies, you can get them from AutoZone or O'Reilly's in their help section. Hope this helps let us know. One other thought came to mind...You could also have a problem with the stop lights because of a faulty turn signal switch.

From what I get from your post the compressor has not stopped working as you said the clutch engages and stays engaged so the pistons in the compressor are still moving. The only way I could see it not working would be if the crankshaft in the compressor was broken and you should hear and feel that by turning the compressor by hand. To much Freon in the system floods the system and restricts the flow to the high side by backing up in the low side. You should replace the accumulator because the desiccant bag is more then likely saturated. Another cause is having to much oil in the system. The whole system should hold 6 oz's of oil.

It sounds like the system is overcharged, I would agree with waltmail and purge the system for moisture and recharge. Has the system been retrofitted to 134?

Tom I have to disagree (in a friendly way) that there would be no danger of the fluid rising that far up the tube unless the trans was grossly overfilled and if the trans vent was completely plugged it would more then likely pop the dipstick out of the tube and spill fluid anyway, by drilling a hole in the tube below the seal of the dipstick insures pressure will not build up and properly filled will keep the fluid from rising that far up. I've done this procedure many times and have never had any adverse effect.

If you don't mind me chiming in I would (if you haven't already done so) is tie in a relay put a 20 to 30 amp fuse in the hot wire and wire it to the ign. switch so the fan comes on with the key. Much more reliable then a thermostat.

Digging into my memory (which is vastly fading) The vent should be locaded on top of the passenger side of the trans and could very well cause fluid to clime up the cable but other problems would also be present such as other external leaks and over filling. I think pulling the trans for this problem would only be a waist of your time. What I would suggest is to drill a 1/8th hole in the filler tube just below the seal on the dipstick ( it will help the trans to breathe). Back in those years GM thought it wise to counterclockwise the winding of the cable to draw fluid up the cable to keep it lubed (wasn't a good idea) an aftermarket cable and case might be a better way to go. Hope this helps. A friend Dave.

+Bob I would suggest that you disconnect the cable and case from the trans first and any reference points holding the cable and case (this will allow you to pull the cable and case out) then work on removing the speedometer at least enough to gain access to were the cable and case is held to the speedometer this way you can gently twist the case back and forth to remove it. Feed the new cable and case in and hook it to the trans last. Also remove the drive assembly from the trans, remove the plastic gear and replace the O ring and the housing O ring.

That was the kind of unit Chrysler used as an emergency brake.

....9 inch pounds if my memory serves me right.

I removed my cassette player completely and installed a radio I got from China Mart for a hundred dollars that has blue tooth, am/fm, cd, sd card, usb, aux, dvd and will play music from my phone. Now I can talk on the phone hands free while watching a movie while going 70 miles an hour in rush hour traffic. ++ I

Another thing you should look for if you have really good tires on the car look for a stone stuck in the tread.

In order to get a proper perspective of the problem jack up one tire at a time by placing the jack under the lower control arm. Start the car and put it in gear (block the rear wheels) have someone bring the speed up to 15 or 20 M.P.H. and listen at the center of the tire. If it sounds OK then do the same to the other wheel. If a bearing is bad you should hear a growl. Also bring the speed back down to an idle and listen for a clicking. This should lead you to the problem whether it is a bearing or a half shaft.

Check the floats with a weight Gage, they may be filling up with gas. If OK then lower the settings. Another way to free up frozen parts is to let them soak in transmission oil for a few days.

If your replacing the sensor bust off the top of the sensor and use a 6 point impact socket 7/8's in size.

You forgot to mention......you also have to use a variety of sizes so you have to get everything you own out of your toolbox.