RichBad

Did one of the wheels and used marine spar varnish. Came up pretty good after 6 coats. Three more to go.

Started on the wheels. Sanded all the spokes and 5 coats of marine spar varnish. Probably could have done with new spokes but not that easy to find people who do them in Oz. Hubs and rims powder coated and re-assembled. One rear done three more to go.

have fun

Thanks Bob, it’s 1050mm (top edge). Bottoms pretty rooted too - they look like a great moisture trap for rust!

I started on my windscreen today as I needed to replace the glass. Thanks to Bob’s instructions I was able to get it apart however, the frame is in pretty poor shape with a lot of rust. I think the screen was holding the frame together. It may be repairable but before I start I thought I’d see if it’s a standard extrusion for the frame. Perhaps it’s unique to the Australian manufactured bodies. Some pics below:

chassis all ready for paint now so have started on some other items. Disassembled the windscreen as glass needed replacing. Glass broke (not a big deal as still useable as pattern) but the frame took quite a lot to get apart and also has quite a lot of rust. Not sure if it will be repairable or if it’s still possible to get the extrusion and fabricate a new one?

Worked it out with some help from Bob. It looks like the late 4s and 6 had the same front fenders except for the clash strip on the front right fender. In the 4 it is cut short for about 6” at the front. My front guard was either of a 6 or someone had done a wrong repair (there were quite a few weld repairs in that area). Also confirmed there are two sheet metal clash strip extensions that fit at the rear of the fender up to the bulkhead.

Sorted, thanks to Bob. This is what they look like for the late 4s and also the same for the 6s with the transmission mounted parking brake.

OK, thanks Ron. That’s similar to what I have which looks like it’s wrong for my model. I guess mine may be similar to what’s in the 6 models too.

Thanks Bob, I see the two holes at the bottom of the mount but think my switch must be wrong.

Thanks all - Ray your pic looks good but my arrangement is a little different as it doesn't have the brake operating rod to the left of the clutch pedal but the switch does look similar from memory. I'll take some photos tonight. Bob, Mine was mounted below and behind the brake pedal with a plate attached to the bottom of the pedal used to activate the switch - but it looked very 'home made' both the attachment to the chassis and the plate at the bottom of the brake pedal.

Hi, Anyone have a photo or know how the brake light switch mounts on 1828 RHD cars? Diagrams all show LHD models with the switch mounted off the gearbox case (so close to the brake pedal) but on RHD cars the brake pedal is on the outside. I thought it would mount to the chassis but there were no mounting holes. Thanks!

Rough sketch showing what I mean

Does the body mount straight to the chassis/valance or is there a spacer/rubber between them? Mine is a Tourer with wooden frame and there is a small ridge along the lower edge of the body where it joins the wood frame (where the nails secure it to the wood frame). With this ridge it means that the main wood frame has a small gap where it bolts to the chassis.

Thanks Ray, mine seems to line up pretty well with the bolts at the rear.

I think mine is from late 1927 but perhaps earlier for the standard six. The earlier fours were similar but had different shaped fenders and chassis but I’m no expert (not even close)

Spent today making a battery tray as original was missing. I think they were a ‘U’ shaped tray with a tube bolted to each side to stop left/right movement but I couldn’t find any good photos. I made mine with sides and slightly wider that way I can fit a larger battery or use for extra tool storage

Progressing slowly. Chassis all sorted but now trying to get the front fenders to fit (they had been repaired at some stage to fit a bent chassis) and sort out a few bad repairs from the past.

Trying to figure out how the right hand wing/fender fits around the engine timing case. I had to cut out a piece of the hood clash strip because it was hard against the case. Anyone have a photo showing what it should look like here?

As in Bullsxxt or did B&S make bolts back then?

Great, thanks Tony.

My late 1927 also had a mix. It looks like all the Engine, chassis and drive train ones had the DB logo. The body ones seemed to be different (and had more square nuts too) but probably because my body was made/fitted in Australia. Some of the body ones had other logos but not sure if these were original or not (I think the B&S ones may have been robbed from a lawnmower).

600W was specified in the Dodge books but both the number and W could be misleading as they don’t appear to be from any current classification systems (ISO, SAE etc). I’m sure someone could do a thesis on this and there would still be arguments about what is best. My opinion is to use what has been tried and tested and shown to work well. Meropa ISO1000, 1500 and Penrite 250 appear to have been used by many with no issues. FYI, the Penrite 250 gear oil is recommended for this era of vehicles and also mentions that it is similar consistency to the old 600W gear oil. See here https://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/transoil-sae-250 Cheers

Hi, Should there be fender welt/piping between the fender and the valance and if so is it on both the horizontal and vertical joints? Also, does it go between the fender and the front of the side step? Thanks!

Gradually making progress - had to cut some chunks of previous repair out of one fender to get it to fit better. Still trying to find out what the front of the valance/splash shields should look like where they meet the front fender. I think that their must be a seperate piece of clash strip between the fender and valance but can’t find a good picture. I think it’s the same as the 1928 standard six if anyone has some photos of those? Do they have piping/welt between where the fender and valance attach to each other?