RichBad

OK, I decided to go for it and get my sump hot dip Galvanized and it came up pretty good and was easier than I thought it would be. I first removed the inner oil tray that was riveted in as it wasn’t plated originally and I didn’t want it to distort (also needed it out to clean out the sludge). The front flange, rear flange/inserts, the rear drain pipe and drain plug insert were all soldered however, after removing all the solder only the rear drain tube could be removed. The drain plug insert was swaged in (after galvanising) with solder to seal. The front flange looks like it was spot welded (probably before plating) with the solder to seal/fill the gaps. The rear flanges looked like they were also spot welded but possibly after the plating (as they didn’t look like they were plated originally). I was planning on re-sealing the flanges with solder but the galvanising seems to have filled/sealed the joints very well. front flange rear flange/insert

Sumpback from Galvanisers, came up pretty good. Had to remove the inner oil tray and drain tube from the rear (they were not plated originally) otherwise it was easier than expected!

Thanks! Mine is a tourer and the door handles are quite different.

Thanks - I think the frame may be quite similar. Do you have any photos around the front cross member showing where it meets with the main frame? Thanks

That's a big screen - what's the purpose of the metal shield around the outside of the screen - does it help stop oil surge?

Another weekend with the grinder - we’ll and truly had enough of metal filings! Pretty much cleaned out all the previous ‘repairs’ now. Should be a lot lighter! Front engine mounts also had some bad repairs so removed them from the cross member to fix up. There was a lot of weld to cut out! Rear engine mounts had also been caught up in previous weld repairs so removed them too. The frame was bent up and inwards from just behind the rear mounts so have to straighten that too (assuming the rails should be straight along the length). Ready so start fixing pieces back in place - need to get some dimensions first before I start welding - help!

Had a couple of questions before I start putting the front end back together. 1. Is the chassis outer face a straight line from front to rear spring mount? 2. Should the chassis top edge be straight from the rear cross member to the steering box front mount holes? 3. Where the front chassis top edge starts to angle up (from just in front of steering box) is it a straight line to the front cross member? thanks!

Shackles all finished. Rebored and bushed to take out the wear, zinc plated and painted. Thanks to Bob B for the parts, they look a bit different now:)

Yes, it works quite well but the bit I’ve been having difficulty with is holding tight from the other side whilst using the air hammer.

Had enough of grinding so thought I’d move to something constructive and repaired the rear spare wheel mounts and re attached to the chassis. First attempt at riveting, not as easy as I thought but getting better the more I do.

This may help with details of the carb

Agree with the others, does sound like fuel shortage. Could be supply to the carb or carb its self. Supply to the carb can be checked quite easily (either by disconnecting at carb or by using a separate tank temporarily). For the carb, check the fuel float needle is moving correctly (should be down when the float bowl is full and then move up as the level drops, it could be sticking). It could also be running too rich -OK for starting but then fouls the plugs and takes time to 'dry out' before it will re-start. Less likely though and I don't think these engines are too fussy about running rich. Are you using the choke at all? The butterfly valve at the top is the throttle valve so sounds like you have your linkage correct. The lever at the bottom is for the fuel mixture (effectively the choke).

Perfect, thanks Bob

Thanks Bob. Do you know what thickness should be on the front of the diff? I guess the thickness is less critical (as the pinion to gear mesh has to be set anyway) but it would need to be quite hard so it doesn't compress over time. Something similar to the ones on the engine front mount and timing cover? Thanks, Richard

A weekend with the grinder (whoever repaired it last liked weld). Have the cross member separated from the sides. Cross member not too bad but needs some repairs to the mounts. Have cut a repair piece for the sides, next step is to cut out the vertical section of the sides to fit the new section (and clear out more weld).

Thanks, I got it down to 0.002” endplate on the gear - hopefully that’s ok.

Oil pump finished - picked thinnest gasket possible, resulted in ~ 0.002” end float on the gears. Anyone know what the front pipe is for - it just feeds to the other side of the mesh (bypassing the filter). I guess it was a crude bypass if the mesh becomes completely clogged - but if it got to that stage then the oil that it would be picking up wouldn't be great!

Olsen didn’t have anything listed for the early ones. I can make them easily enough from sheet just wanted to make sure I get the right material/thickness.

I made these ones my self (couldn’t find any repro ones). Only 15 for the block of rubber and a bit of my time

Hi, I’m trying to find some details (material/thickness) of the gaskets for a 1927/1928 Four so I can make some replacements. Diff rear cover - I assume it’s a thickish cork? Diff front - I guess it’s a thinner/harder as if it compresses it would increase the pinion to gear engagement. Oil pump bottom plate - I think it’s thin paper as anymore would result in too much clearance for the pump gears. Appreciate any help - thanks!

Ok, thanks for looking Bob - a few pictures around the cross member chassis joint would be helpful if you get a chance. I’ll start cutting mine apart to get the old weld/plate out. Have a good day off!

Old and new rubber for the spring bump stops - not quite enough rubber to finish.

I left mine natural - don’t know how long it will stay like that but I’d expect that a clear coat would end up looking worse over time (chips, peeling etc) and not natural.

There are some photos of mine here I think it’s a slightly later model but probably similar and I’m pretty sure the finish is mostly correct.

Just be wary of what the book says - this was written on the basis that everything was set up correctly from the start. Over the last 90+ years it may have been adjusted incorrectly at both the distributor and steering box joints/linkages.