Bloo

Yes, metal transfer like that points to a problem with the condenser.

A 3 wire unit wont wire into anything really, you need separate light housings. The wiring will all be new and separate. 6v >> flasher input pin Flasher output pin >> center contact of switch and then... Right switch contact >> both right hand bulbs Left switch contact >> both left bulbs If you are going to have have two turn signal indicators (inside the car), hook one to each side. If you will have only one, hook it to the third pin on the flasher. and finally.... Make sure all sockets are grounded. On a 1937 Buick is it probably possible to change the parking light sockets for dual contact sockets, and dual filament bulbs, and put the front signals in with the parking lights. On the back you would still need to add separate lights.

Where are you? I saw a fender on LA Craigslist (not mine). Kinda spendy, but no rust. https://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/pts/d/1964-buick-skylark-gran-sport-driver/6920250423.html On the other hand probably the thing to do is pick up a whole parts car somewhere. Welcome!

I think it's a 1938 Chevrolet.

Did you fab up a reverse lockout somehow or do you just have to remember?

As others have mentioned, the most likely thing is the accelerator pump. Or, the air valve over the secondaries is opening too easy.

Yeah, I don't think anybody tries to drain these. Usually you just find them empty.

I don't think you do. I don't recall ever seeing a drain plug on one. Yeah, I guess it would be better not to mix, not knowing what was in there. On the other hand, if there is any lubricant in there AT ALL you have already won the war.

It is not easy to put in. When I do it I can't help thinking about this: https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/pitch-drop-experiment

In addition to taking the axle windup torque (as the torque tube does on a Chevrolet), a Buick torque tube and it's torque ball are what locate the axle fore and aft. It's pretty stout.

it backfires under hard acceleration? Just once when you crack the throttle? Or repeatedly?

In the Pontiac world, it isn't a mystery. The old shop manuals describe it's properties. It wasn't and isn't one of the standard greases or oils of the day. Have a look at this: https://web.archive.org/web/20160914010532/http://www.earlytimeschapter.org/steeringgearserv.html As others have mentioned, NGLI 00 or 0 is about where you want to be. Thick gear oil will run out, and grease will scrape off and not flow back properly. The answer is in-between. I like Penrite Steering Box lube. I understand John Deere Corn Head Grease is also popular. https://www.restorationstuff.com/ecommerce/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=111_112&products_id=710&zenid=urvd1di4r5u79st714d4l79do3

Yeah. They were the cheapest car in America during those years, but FAR from the worst. It was 1987! Apparently most of the people dissing them Online either weren't old enough to remember, or have forgotten what average cars were like in those days. It's just a license built FIAT, 127 body on 128 mechanicals as I recall. I worked on a few of them back when they were almost new. I never thought they were bad cars.

According to an old technical book I have, circa 1987, that I cannot find (so going by memory from decades ago), there are 3 common types of car battery: 1) Conventional with removable caps that unscrew 2) Low Maintenance (normally needs no water, but might, so the caps can be pried off to add some). 3) Maintenance Free (no way to add anything). The chief difference is the alloy of the plates. 1) This is the battery of old. It needs water now and then even on a charging system that doesn't hammer the battery too hard (so ignoring third brush generators for the moment). It likes a slightly lower charging voltage, such as would have been normal years ago. These were still avaiable in the 80s at battery dealers, the sort of shops that build batteries in house, and could theoretically take one apart and fix it. Tar top was gone by the 80s, but there were still batteries that could be assembled or disassembled in house, and shops that could do it. Their main customers were farms and industry. If you wanted a truly old fashioned battery, you just walked into one of these places and bought one. They could supply about any size. They probably had modern stuff on the shelves too. Apparently most 6 volt batteries are still of this type, because they have screw on caps and a level that needs to be checked. 2) This is an Interstate battery, or an Exide, or similar, with triple caps that don't look removable, but pry off if you really need to add water. The different plate alloy will tolerate a slightly higher charging voltage. It also prefers a slightly higher charging voltage. I should point out here that "higher" means just a couple of tenths of a volt (or so) higher. Less water is lost in normal operation. After a few years, you probably add some water. Most aftermarket batteries in the USA were this type in the 80s and 90s. 3) This one is the Delco "Freedom Battery" and similar things. They are yet another plate alloy. They lose even less moisture, and allegedly never need water. In any event, there is no way to add any. They can tolerate, and like an even higher charging voltage. They are described as "sealed", but every lead-acid battery has a vent, and can theoretically off-gas and leak, even an Optima. This type shouldn't vent in normal operation. To the list I am going to add one more type: 4) AGM or "absorbed glass mat". The electrolyte is soaked up in fiberglass mats between the plates. This includes Optimas, but also some conventional looking batteries with flat plates. Like the sealed Delcos, they want, and can tolerate a little more voltage. Optima's datasheets say their 12v spiral batteries can be charged indefinitely at 15 volts, as long as the case remains below a certain temperature. AGM batteries really belong in category 3) I think, but weren't common yet when that book was written.

It can get stuck to the flywheel with rust. If it is stuck you will have to un-stick it. It is extremely unlikely you would have to replace it unless you drove it enough miles to wear it out.

What kind of car? Be sure your clutch disengages completely. Many brass era cars (my 13 Studebaker included) use a thick gloppy oil in the transmission, and RPM of the moving parts drop WAY quicker than you would expect. The first to second shift has to be done really fast or it wont happen.

Yep. Any car that has had the EGR removed has way too much timing at part throttle cruise. Probably about 10 crankshaft degrees too much. Sometimes you can make a stop to reduce the travel in the vacuum advance. If not you'll need an adjustable one. Vacuum should be ported vacuum from the carburetor. Some cars from that era also ran the idle timing retarded. If advancing until there is no pinging at full throttle results in ignition timing too retarded at idle, then the centrifugal curve in the distributor will also need work.

Totem must have taken a whole block. Here is the building behind it that I thought I recognized in the old picture, still standing at 4th and Vine. https://www.google.com/maps/@47.6171877,-122.3469849,3a,75y,4h,103.02t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1s6V_lvOjIAZm7q6sLZMfs6g!2e0!7i16384!8i8192 It shows just below the right yellow arrow on your picture, in-between the Totem site and the next tall building.

Yep, you nailed it!

Well that explains why I couldn't place it. That picture above was allegedly 4th and Wall. Somehow it just didn't click for me. I think I recognize the building behind. EDIT: The Olive and the Fifth addresses don't seem to jive either. Somehow I doubt we are going to find the building now. (How about something more like First and Denny?) It also surprises me they moved around so much. In any event, the OP's car is a 1969 (I wonder there they were in 1969?). I hope we can find him a license frame. I dug through my collection and didn't find anything.

I think it's a Triumph 2000

It's been gone a while... This is probably the spot: https://www.google.com/maps/@47.6167368,-122.3461096,3a,75y,4h,103.02t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1sDyBj8dGyRiP7ueHfZZ7tZg!2e0!7i16384!8i8192

I sent an email to the site administrator. I did not receive a detailed response (maybe the one I received was automated, and the real one is still coming?) Im not sure, but I have the administrator's email address now. I'll send it to you in a P.M.

I only brought it up because 2 of those resistors (the two in parallel) could affect your results when testing on 12 volts. I don't know about your situation, but I think some of us would have an easier time coming up with a pile of 12v coils to test than a pile of 6v coils. If needed, you can check the resistance of those resistors with a multimeter set to "ohms" (like the free harbor freight one if you happen have one laying around). Ohms might be represented by the Greek Omega symbol on the meter. Yellow=4 purple=7 black="do not multiply" silver="plus or minus 10 percent". The two 47 ohm resistors in parallel should be 23.5 ohms. The resistor by itself should be 47 ohms, but it is only used on the 24 volt range.

You might ask over here: https://antiqueradios.com/forums/index.php and see if anyone has a more useful cross reference. You need a thicker skin on that forum than here. In radios, the use of modern solid state replacement vibrators is controversial. More than you ever wanted to know here: https://antiqueradios.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=323198&start=0 I have to plead a bit of ignorance on the subject. I understand vibrators were troublesome back in the day, but my own experience has been mostly positive. Generally I just replaced the buffer capacitor before firing it up, and maybe the rectifier tube, and everything was fine. I understand they have rubber inside, and of course points, and people have had to take them apart. Some guy in Australia or New Zealand came up with a method of running one on line/mains voltage in series with a light bulb to clean up the contacts without taking the vibrator apart. I'm not sure where I saw that. It was 220v or 240v mains. My thoughts are, we know it is a 6 volt vibrator. I only see 3 wires going to the socket. The most common vibrators ever were wired like that. Positive ground or negative ground might make a difference. I suspect the wrong polarity would vibrate, but the contacts might be of incorrect metal to last a long time. Dont hold me to that. In any case, the battery leads on your tester probably determine the polarity. I suspect this is a super-common vibrator. More thoughts: The resistors in the lower right are for 12v or 24v operation. The capacitor is new. There isn't anything else. I would try it with some more modern 6v coils and see what you come up with. If it won't work reliably, the vibrator is the only thing left. One more: If you don't have 6v coils, try with a 12v coil and a 12v battery. You might want to check the resistors if you do. Those are 47 ohm resistors. Check with the switch on 6v, so the resistors are known to be out of circuit. the pair in parallel should be 23.5 ohms and the single one 47 ohms. Don't get too upset unless they are approaching 20 percent, and high. They were only 10 percent tolerance when new. One last: What are those numbers on the scale? Are those Kilovolts? If so, I would expect a lot of old cars to score "poor" or worse. EDIT: GLong posted while I was typing. That's good advice.