Bloo

7000 miles? Why not keep the original? If the bore is too bad, you can get it sleeved. I had one sleeved last year at "Brake and Equipment" of Minneapolis, MN. They did a nice job, and could have rebuilt the cylinder too if I wasn't inclined to do it myself.

Well, dot5 is slippery, and dot3(or 4) will sort of burn your hands a little. Pretty subjective. Dot3(4) is usually clear or straw colored, and rots to something like dark amber, gray, or black. Dyed versions do exist, like Ate Super Blu, but that doesn't show up too often in antiques. Dot5 is usually pale purple or pale green, and does not rot, so it might not change color much. It could get discolored by the rubber of rotting cups and seals, or tiny particles worn from a brass cylinder sleeve. Dot5 tags exist to put on the cover bolt of a pot-type master cylinder. I'm not sure what to do with a bail.

Green for stop?! I'll bet that didn't go well. No wonder that lens had a crack in it.

My dad, who lived through those times, told me that in the 1930s and early 1940s whitewalls were relatively uncommon. Those decades had the depression and the war respectively. In the depression most couldn't afford tires at all, let alone fancy tires, and those who could were less interested in flaunting their wealth than in more prosperous times. Then the war came, and rationing with it, and tires of any sort just weren't readily available He also said that before the war, when you did see whitewalls, they were on both sides of the tire. YMMV.

First front fender: Probably 1950 Ford. Third front fender: probably 1949 ford.

Second front fender is a 1951 or 1952 Chevrolet. Maybe the same. Maybe not? You can see the marks left behind by the arrow-shaped signal lights, as used in 1951-52 with slight differences. Might also fit 1949-1950, but I sort of doubt it. Hood is really taken from the wrong angle to see what shape it is, but it is probably International "L" series (1950-1952). Bigger trucks might or might not take the same hood as a pickup. Some sheetmetal was different, not sure about the hood.

If you mean small 3 speed automatic, someone in this thread claims they did one in a car.... https://www.fordmuscleforums.com/galaxie-pages/511588-shift-shaft-seal-fx-61-67-a.html As I recall, that little mechanism was a pain in the ass upside down on a metal bench with all clean parts, the case empty, and plenty of light. I doubt I would try it in the car.

I doubt it. Which transmission? If it is a Cast Iron Cruise-O-Matic, IIRC that shaft is the FIRST part to go in when you assemble the transmission. There is a ball detent and a strong spring under the linkage inside. I suspect you would have to have the valve body and/or the servos and/or the pressure regulator out to do it in the car, and I am not sure it would even be possible. If it is an aluminum 2-speed Ford-O-Matic, I have no idea.

Do you mean in the little relay or the copper bolts in the solenoid? The little relay you can just clean the points if you need to. I would start by dragging paper wet with brake cleaner through them. Points gap and air gap is listed in the shop manual IIRC. Maybe a little file if they are really bad. Don't do much, they might have some precious metal on them you wouldn't want to scrape the last of it off. If you mean the copper bolts, they get replaced when bad. When the bolt heads burn down enough, the copper disc no longer touches. Probably a solenoid rebuild kit from Bobs Automobilia or maybe Ebay? Or you could check with a local auto electric shop. The symptom when bad is "CLICK!" "CLICK!", basically the opposite of what you described. Sometimes they can just be turned around so the copper disc hits the "good" (unworn) side of the copper bolt head. That only works if someone didn't already do it 50 years ago.

On a 1937 Buick there is a little relay on the back of the starter solenoid. It needs power and ground to pull in. It gets power from the autostart stuff, and ground from the voltage regulator (this is to prove the engine is not running before the starter kicks in). Once that relay kicks in, it sends power to the starter solenoid, which pulls on the starter drive (via a linkage) and engages it to the flywheel. Once the solenoid pulls completely in and gets to the end of it's travel, it bumps a copper disc against those 2 copper bolts in the back of the solenoid. Those 2 bolts and the copper disc form a switch. THAT SWITCH is what runs the starter motor. So you see, if you step on the gas and the starter runs, the solenoid has ALREADY pulled in and knocked the copper disc against the 2 copper bolts. It is working. The starter drive has a one-way clutch inside that can wear out, leading to a starter that runs away, rather than cranking the engine. Once the starter drive is changed, there is an adjustment on the solenoid plunger you will need to make. The shop manual has details on that.

Plug that sucker in and practice! Get some chunks of vinyl and go for it. Fix a ripped gusset or two in your winter car or something. A machine like that is an incredibly handy thing to have around.

And to clarify a bit, MCHinson pointed you to a starter drive. it is usually the problem when the starter runs but does not turn the engine (not the solenoid).

Sounds good!

I am a long way from you. Thanks for responding.

Idle is supposed to decrease when you put it in gear (drag from the torque converter in the transmission). Does it idle ok now? As for the brakes, they might normally affect the idle, but only when you let up on the pedal, not when you step down on it.

There is technically nothing wrong with using used bearings, if they are solid and in good condition, BUT.... Are they going to fit? They DO need to fit properly, and the odds are against it. Proper bearing clearance will be specified by the maker of the engine, but is typically around 0.015-.002. There really isn't any wiggle room. If a crank is ground, it will generally be to a standard undersize, like -.010 or -.020 . New bearings will be made to work with those measurements. If the used ones have any wear AT ALL they aren't going to fit, even if they are the correct undersize.When you measure them, they will be out of spec. Yes, if they were in spec it would be fine, but I think you might have better luck with the lottery. If the bearings are too tight they will spin and tear up the block or rod. If they are even a tiny bit too loose, too much oil will leak out, and the engine will have trouble keeping oil pressure. That could lead quickly to a failure, and even if it didn't, they would probably make noise and have a short life. Sometimes there have been tiny undersizes available in bearings, even used by the factory in some engines, that are -.0005, -001, etc. This can be used to deal with manufacturing tolerances, and or a little crank wear. These are generally only for standard size cranks (that have not been ground). I have never heard of anything like -.0105 or -.011 . Inspect the bearings for any damage, and check your clearances with plastigage. That will tell the story.

Where is "local"?

1912 Flanders 20 hood contour: 1912 EMF 30 hood coutour: 1913 Studebaker 25 hood countour: 1913 Studebaker 35 hood contour: To me, the Flanders 20 is the odd man out, and looks like the hood shape shown in the original posting.

The one in you second pic could sure cause it.Thats for the heater controls. Try changing that or cutting it shorter and putting it back on. It needs to fit tight. Actually i might try capping the port on the engine first, in case the heater controls leak vacuum, then hook hose back up and see if its still ok. The big hose next to it goes to the brake booster. That would be another on to disconnect and plug at the engine if`the little one doesn't fix things. The brake booster could be letting air in through that hose when it shouldn't. Washer stuff wont matter to the engine. p38 sounds like 383!

Eldora, Iowa to Los Angeles California in a 1912 EMF 30 in 1913! http://articles.rrvcsdc.org/1913-Studebaker-Trip-Diary.php

When the brake booster pops, it makes a huge vacuum leak. Do your brakes feel funny? If so, and if none of this other advice helps, try disconnecting the hose, and plugging the port to the engine. It is highly likely that both a 361 and a 383 were available, at least in the USA. They look about identical. There is a boss with numbers stamped near the distributor. I cant seem to remember how the numbers worked in 1960, but if you get that number you can probably look it up. For instance in 1965 it probably would start out A-361 for a 361 and A-383 for a 383. The block casting number is also different between a 361 and 383, and that could also be looked up. 361s were still pretty common back then, so its a good chance thats what it is. For troubleshooting the problem 383 or 361 makes no difference. At least now we know it is a B engine, not a 318 or a slant six.

I held back on this because I thought you would get pages of responses from people who have pulled this exact engine and trans. I haven't. The traditional way to pull a v8 engine is with a piece of heavy chain strung across the engine from an intake manifold bolt on one side of the engine at the rear, diagonally, to another at the front of the engine on the opposite side. Use big fender washers so the bolts cant pull through the chain, and no iffy bolts. Get grade 8 if theres any doubt. Remove anything that could hit the chain when the engine tilts, or hit on the car, like carb, distributor, coil, etc. Hook the lower hook of the engine hoist, gantry crane, comealong, chain hoist, or whatever you are using to the chain that is across the top of the motor. Put bolts through the chain so theres no way the hook can slip! You will need to deliberately unbalance it so that the front of the engine comes up. One or 2 links forward is probably about right if it were just the engine. Since there is a trans too, you might need to go a little further back than that. Maybe not. You will just have to find a spot that makes the tail drop the right amount. It probably needs to drop a lot. Get the car up in the air a bit because the tail will come down, but you will need to be able to lower the car when it is partway out, and roll it back. You might have to lift a bit on the tail by hand to swing it over the core support. Devices exist that have a screw and a crank to balance the engine, and save you from trying different links and re-bolting the pulling chain. I don't know what they are called. A plain chain was more common back in the day, but less convenient. Don't even try to do this by yourself. Two people is the minimum. You need at least one friend who can follow instructions. Three people total is safer but slightly more annoying. Four is probably too many. Have fun!

It is really hard to tackle this without being there to hear it. I agree with TerryB that it SOUNDS like an idle circuit plugged. Rusty's method should clear it if that is what it is. Look around for broken or loose vacuum hoses. Do you have power brakes? Which engine is this and which carburetor?

Cross country trip in an EMF (same manufacturer as Flanders, just a little bigger) in 2011: http://emfauto.org/Swan_2012_EMF_Adventure.php

My Studebaker pictured above is very similar to a Flanders or EMF., and I shudder at the thought of driving it across the country. I think it would take 2 weeks or more on modern 2 lane roads if you had no issues with the car. Cross country car trips in those days were the sort of thing a car company might do, along with a media blitz, to prove reliability. Hupmobile did it in 1916. Unless your grandparents were hard-as-nails adventurers, out to prove something, there is just no way. They would have got on a train, because that was how people traveled. The Flanders could have been shipped by rail, but probably wouldn't have been. In 1915 it was 3 years old, and cars didn't hold up very well. https://www.history.com/news/the-epic-road-trip-that-inspired-the-interstate-highway-system http://theoldmotor.com/?p=162293