neil morse

As has been said, the short answer to your question is unfortunately "No." You will have to remove all the hardware securing the rear axle, and pull the axle back about 4" or so to get the shaft out of the torque ball. When I did it on my '41, we jacked the body up so that the rear wheels were still on the floor, and then pulled the rear axle back with a come-along. Be careful when removing the bolts on the plates that hold the coil springs to the axle housing. They are reverse threaded on both sides. There is some discussion and photos that may be helpful to you on my "Me and My Buick" thread. Click on the arrow in the upper right-hand corner to go directly the post where it starts. Good luck and feel free to post more questions!

Here you go: https://forums.aaca.org/forum/12-buick-buysell/

And while you have the tank out, I highly recommend that you have it properly sand blasted down to bare metal on the inside and coated with a modern plastic coating. One less thing to worry about going forward.

Thank you, John. Come out for a visit any time!

A lovely day to drive out to Fort Funston for a hike. (I was going to post this under "Winter Buicks," but that would be too cruel! 😝)

Wow! I see what you mean. This car still looks good to me, but that Century is a screaming deal.

Son, someday all this will be yours -- including the Buick!

A tad overpriced, but definitely worth making an offer on. Looks to be in very nice condition overall.

And wash away the magic "barn find" dust? Never!

You are right, Joe. The Chrysler plant was in Highland Park, MI, so some genius in the marketing department came up with the idea of the "Highlander" plaid interior option. It was an exclusively Chrysler thing. Also, I can say that the color of the underside of the trunk lid was something that MoPar did with all of their cars. They all had that almost olive drab color, regardless of the exterior color. My "St. Clair Blue" '48 Chrysler had the same color on the interior of the trunk, the lid as well as the trunk floor.

You raise a good point. I didn't notice the door panels until after I made my post about the seat covers. The seat covers look like period aftermarket accessories. But the door panels (in the same plaid) look more like a reupholstery job. Either way, neither the seat covers nor the door panels look like something from the factory, but I could be wrong of course.

Not a Highlander interior. The Highlander was a trim option for Chrysler only. This car has aftermarket seat covers that happen to be plaid. But this car looks very nice.

It's very hard to say whether this one is better or worse than the $10.5K one because there is so little information given about either of them. But at least this one is $3.5K cheaper! Despite the stuff on the front seat, the copy indicates that this one hasn't run since the 1980's -- and that's quite a long time. The interior does look better than the other one, but it's a bit of a trade-off because the exterior of this one is so much rougher. The biggest question for me on the $10.5K one is whether or not it's running. If so, it would probably be the best choice between the two, at least in terms of making an offer. If you could get the $10.5K for $7K, then you'd really be getting somewhere. That's how it looks to me, based on the limited information we have about each of them. They are great, smooth-running, and dependable cars once they are sorted out.

I agree with all of Larry's comments. This is far from a "giveaway price," but if it runs well the asking price is in a reasonable range. This could be reliable "driver" to have fun with, but it would take a lot of work and money to make everything correct in the interior and under the hood.

It looks pretty good from what you can see. The wheel covers are wrong, and the chrome spear on the driver's side rear fender is broken, but otherwise it looks good. Not a bad price assuming that the interior is good and it's in good mechanical condition.

Well, there's no such thing as a "Cadillac La Salle," but this car looks like it might be worth making an offer on. Not a bad asking price based on the photos (assuming the engine will turn over). If I had room for it, I would be interested.

Try this. Click on the arrow in the upper right hand corner to go directly to the right post.

Check Gary Wheeler's '37 thread that Matt Hinson sent a link to a few posts back. You will find a detailed description of how to replace the windshield glass and rubber.

Another thread on this forum has additional information about this car.