Gary W

Does the Buick Club publish a set of "standards" (like the Model "A" Clubs do?) so as you restore the car, you have a guideline as to these finishing touches? I have to say, it's really nice to have your car judged against a standard, instead of the other cars that show up, and the shiny one wins.

Here's a photo that Dave posted on my thread a while ago of his trunk, which he believes is original: You can clearly see the wood base under the mat. My black felt stuff fell down over the spare and hid all the under stuff

No problem!!! If that's the only bad news I get.......I'm a happy boy!! But I am going to cover the bare wood when I get to that part of the build.

Paul.. I have a black, almost "felt-like" material that was covering the upper trunk floor, i.e.: the wood shelf that sits above the spare tire. It covered the wood shelf, and it was cut long enough that it draped down to cover the spare tire and the lower area. I'm going to use it as a template when I finish the car but I can surely take photos of it for you. Mine is a '37, don't know if they are the same??

Hello Paul! Please read through these two currently running threads. The topic of transmission oil / differential oil is discussed kind of intertwined with my thread: MAINTENANCE 41 Limited transmission and rear end fluid change Hi Billy; I got the car WITHOUT a radio. It only had a "blanking plate" on the dash. I purchased one from Mr. Tachney and it is now being restored and set up with USB / Bluetooth / AM / FM . Yes, the antenna is routed to the running boards. Matthew: Probably a ton of $$ for new welled fenders and all the accessory parts that go along with it.... I really do LOVE the side mounts. I'll look into it.

Friday June 9, 2017: Re-vulcanized Running Boards Arrived! On January 15 I removed the running boards from the car. I sent them out to get the bottom blasted free of all that rust and barnacles that 80 years of use will bring. I was going to buy the rubber mat from Steele and cure it on myself, but the more I thought about it, the task of removing that old dried up, vulcanized rubber seemed almost impossible. So I decided to send them out to be professionally revulcanized: So on February 28 I boxed them up, actually using old outdoor furniture cushions over the ends of the boards to protect them on their journey to Canada. I used heavy duty boxes and "sleeved" them so the walls were doubly protected. Well, today UPS dropped off the restored / revulcanized boards and they look great! January 15, 2017: Removed off the car Here's a close-up of the condition of the rubber Another shot as it was removed. . All the hardware removed and the underside blasted clean, ready to boxed and shipped. The last time they will have their original rubber. I felt this job was a bit too much for me to tackle. Today, UPS dropped off a nicely built wooden shipping box. Acting like a kid in a candy shop, I couldn't wait to undo all the screws and open the treasure! The undersides are powder coated "mirror black" The up side..... smooth as a baby's bottom! The finished product! Very, very nice job. Here they are, ready to have the hardware re-installed. The detail is perfect! I sent all the mounting hardware to my local powder coater, and I got all new nuts and bolts for re-assembly. Job well done! Thanks to Kris at The Running Board Rubber Company, Mc Bride, Canada.

LOVE IT!!! I Cannot wait for that day! I really like the side mounts.....How much trouble is that to do? Can I cut in fender wells or do I have to buy an actual welled fender?

Terry: Regarding your 1916 D-45 "Straight-Cut" Transmission gears: Passing on to you some information I found out: Not to beat a "dead horse" but only for clarification purposes: After all the comments on proper gear oils, I had to do a little research for my own education. I've been using the MEROPA gear oil for over 20 years in my cars, and after reading all the input here I was getting a little worried that I may be damaging the bushings or anything else that had copper-containing metals. I contacted Chevron and finally nailed down the specs of the MEROPA gear oil that I have been using. It IS perfectly suitable for copper, brass, bronze and scored a "1A" in the "Copper Strip Corrosion ASTM D130 Test. Sigh of relief. Now, as stated above, the 680 may be too heavy for the Buick, (to flow into the needle bearings and synchros) but I have to tell you, in the Non-Synchro, Straight Cut, "crashboxes", the 680 does a great job slowing down the gears for easy shifting. (That's MY OWN PERSONAL experience with this particular gear oil.......) They do make a lighter grade (420?) also, which may flow better into the bearings... So, like I stated earlier, not to keep dragging out this subject, but solely for informational purposes: I did order a classic 140 EP gear oil for the Buick, but I will continue using the MEROPA in the non-synchro boxes. (PS.. I do not work for Texaco, Chevron or have a horse in this race. I'm just trying to learn and hopefully pass the information on that I acquired so others can make an informed decision. I never in my life even heard of the ASTM D130 test, but keep learning as all you guys chime in here. I really appreciate all the new stuff I'm learning. Thanks!) Have a great day out there! Gary

Wednesday June 7, 2017: A visit to the paint shop I stopped by the paint shop today and was glad to see that the other vehicle is moved out and my Buick now is center stage. Bob is working on the front firewall, windshield area and the roof area above the windshield first. He likes to sand it, use a filler to 1. smooth out the lead joints where the body was originally put together and 2. fix any defects in the body. After the fill is cured, it's all sanded again, and then sprayed with a build-up primer. He said he likes to get the primer coat on before he starts a new section so the bare metal isn't exposed too long, and with visitors stopping by the shop, touching the body.....better to keep it primed. A couple of photos from today's visit: Here's a view of the lead that was used on the body during construction. The scratch marks are where he showed me how easy it is to score lead with your fingernail. This is the body filler he uses, with the metal glaze added in to aid in the adhesion to the metal. (I think that's what he said the metal glaze is for) But these two products are used in conjunction. The Body filler applied, and cured, but not sanded smooth yet. Here is the filler sanded out and ready for the "build-up" prime coat. Here is a spot under the hood Bob repaired so the two sides look the same. I never noticed anything there until I went back into my photos! There were a few "punched-in" dents in that area. Never noticed it! This is the self-etching primer that will be sprayed next once the entire body is sanded out. These two products also go together to make the "build-up" primer that goes over the self-etch primer. (I THINK??)

OK... So this is what I ordered for both the transmission and for the differential: It says suitable for brass and bronze. My local AutoZone had nothing.

This is what I ordered. I'll use it in both transmission and differential. Thanks!

Thanks! It's the synchros that are the new part to me. So the viscosity is not so much the issue as is the additives. Got it! A little thick in the head sometimes! I'll run down to AutoZone today to see what GL3 / GL4 gear lube they carry. Appreciate the advice, thanks for the clarification!

Thanks guys for all the information. It's the synchro transmission that is the huge difference from what I'm used to. I don't want to damage anything after all this work! I'm heading out this morning to get ..Conventional (not synthetic), GL-4, 140W, Gear Oil. Got it!

Just trying to learn, that's all. I have no horse in the race. This car is new to me, so I ask a lot of questions. I'm heading out this morning to get the gear lube.

I can't wait to make that trip!!!!!!!!!

I know I've repeated this on my running restoration thread, and on the Maintenance thread. But I thought it was relevant: If someone out there could help me clarify: My MEROPA 680 Gear oil is ISO 680 , AGMA is 8 EP. The Lube chart that Larry furnished above calls for SAE - 160 EP Gear Oil in the Transmission and Differential. (Summer) So I researched tonight and this is what I found: This is the data for the MEROPA 680 Gear Oil. You see it is AGMA Grade 8 EP / ISO Grade 680. This viscosity chart clearly equates ISO 680 with AGMA 8 with SAE 140 Gear Oil So the question....... Can I still use the MEROPA 680 in the Buick Transmission and Differential? I've been using it over 24 years in my Ford's Steering Box, Gear Box and Differential.

Returning to the subject of Transmission and Differential Gear Oil: Specifically the MEROPA 680 Gear Oil.....If someone out there could help me clarify: My MEROPA 680 Gear oil is ISO 680 , AGMA is 8 EP. The Lube chart that Larry furnished above calls for SAE - 160 EP Gear Oil in the Transmission and Differential. (Summer) So I researched tonight and this is what I found: This is the data for the MEROPA 680 Gear Oil. You see it is AGMA Grade 8 EP / ISO Grade 680. This viscosity chart clearly equates ISO 680 = AGMA 8 = SAE 140 Gear Oil So the question....... Can I still use the MEROPA 680 in the Buick Transmission and Differential? I've been using it over 24 years in my Ford's Steering Box, Gear Box and Differential without any troubles at all. Also, being the Buick calls for SAE 160, am I OK using it? It seems like it's in the ballpark. Thanks! Gary

If someone out there could help me clarify: My MEROPA 680 Gear oil is ISO 680 , AGMA is 8 EP. The Lube chart that Larry furnished above calls for SAE - 160 EP Gear Oil in the Transmission and Differential. (Summer) So I researched tonight and this is what I found: This is the data for the MEROPA 680 Gear Oil. You see it is AGMA Grade 8 EP / ISO Grade 680. This viscosity chart clearly equates ISO 680 with AGMA 8 with SAE 140 Gear Oil So the question....... Can I still use the MEROPA 680 in the Buick Transmission and Differential? I've been using it over 24 years in my Ford's Steering Box, Gear Box and Differential.

Congratulations and Good Luck! Beautiful automobile! Enjoy the many miles ahead.

Thank you Larry! So how does the viscosity of 1937 oils rated at SAE 160 - EP compare to our SAE 160 W oils today? Are they the same? Just wondering.

I already took it all apart, soaked and cleaned everything. But I used "Brakecleen"...I can try the lacquer thinner. Somehow I think my thermostatic spring isn't working right?? Do they lose their temper or something after a while?? And is the vacuum pull supposed to open the throttle plate fully? Or just partially until the heat acts on the spring?

Monday June 5, 2017: Automatic Choke Unit A temporary improvisation to make it function...... at least for now The subject of the 1937 Automatic Choke unit came up recently. My choke unit does not work at all. The arm only slightly rises to a "partial choke" position when the engine vacuum pulls on it. Even after letting the engine idle and warm up for 20 minutes, the arm never rises up to fully open the throttle plate. This condition does not allow the engine to breathe properly and it runs a little rough. As soon as I push the arm up, opening up the throttle plate she smooths right out. So....as a temporary fix for now, I created a "Helper Spring" to put a little upward pressure on the arm. I used a carburetor spring from a Model "T" Ford. I simply straightened it out and "unwound" it a couple turns. By removing the arm from the automatic choke unit and installing the "helper spring" behind it, the arm now sits at a "partial choke" position when it's at rest for startup, and as soon as the vacuum kicks in, she pulls full open. I know it's just a temporary measure for now until I can find someone who either has a functioning unit or can rebuild mine or can teach me how to rebuild it so it operates properly. When I bought the car, the previous owner simply tied the arm up so the throttle plate was full open all the time. I bent the Model "T" spring so it "helps" push the arm up. If you look closely, you'll see the end of the spring pokes through the hole just under the carburetor arm. So at least for now, it pulls open and the engine likes it. I have another unit on the bench that I want to try to restore properly, or send out for repair.

Thank you Larry! I never gave it a second thought. I just figured it works so well in the Fords......pour it in. But those Model "A" Gearboxes are straight cut, non-synchro, double clutch boxes. When that oil is in there, those gears do slow down and shift easily. Too heavy for the differential also??

Thanks Matt...I'll have to look it up. I don't know. Never gave it a thought in the past. It works great in the old Fords that I just used it again.

Looking for your opinion of the MEROPA 680 Gear Oil that I use in my Model "T" Ford differential, and in my Model "A" steering boxes, transmissions and differentials. It's thick stuff but the car does shift nicely. It's the last post on page 12.