joelj

I have a handle that I picked up at a swap meet for the lock cylinder cap and spring. No key, otherwise its intact. Let me know if it would be of use.

I am guessing that the finish on the car is old lacquer. It seems like this can sometimes be super hard with cracks and crazing or soft to the point where it pulverizes into nothing. This said I think I would try to scuff it with a fine grit wet sand paper ( 1500-2000 grit) just enough to remove any dry oxidized material. Then you can buff with a compound like Meguiars diamond cut 2.0 followed by a swirl remover polish, followed by wax. Use a light hand and an orbital buffer. Start low on the car like around the fender openings and work your way up to the big flat surfaces like the hood, deck lid, and roof. It's really hard to tell how well it will turn out without actually having hand on the car and seeing what you are dealing with. Either way there is no miracle, just different levels of abrasives versus different levels of deteriation and time. Lastly, don't expect perfection as much as getting the finish to look the best it can be given its age and overall condition.

My car is a 56s Super sedanette. I think from the firewall back it is the same as a Roadmaster. As for the handle, it is just a spare, I never actually tried to see if it would fit but the measurement does seem to make some sense.

Not sure about Ramco rings but I did install NOS buick rings in my 49 248. This is what I got: first and second grooves wrer standard compression rings just like the originals. The third groove was an oil wiper ring like the original. The fourhth was an oil ring that has a thin top and bottom and both a horizontal and vertical expander. This was unlike the original that only had a vertical expander. I think there were 32 pieces to the bottom ring. (Sixteen thin rings, eight horizontal spacers and eight vertical spacers ). This seems close to what you have but your kit may be missing pieces. Seems like there should be only one ring per cylinder in the compression grooves. I could be wrong about this, I don't know all there is to know about what the after market was doing at the time to improve on the factory design.

I measured a spare handle that I have and the only thing that seems to come close to 5⁹/³² is the face of the handle to the beginning of the threaded part. The inner shaft/tube is definitely fixed and is not supposed to move.

(Picture 1)Overall view of the latch system. (Picture 2)This is the center pivot with the nut removed, you can see the end of the handle shaft.(picture 3) is one of the two end latches in the locked position with the handle pointing straight down. (Picture 3) is the center pivot with the nut installed on the end of the handle.

As Bob said, the shaft of the handle should be in a fixed position, if it is, then look at the latch. This should consist of a center cam that actuates two flat bars on opposite sides of the trunk lid. (Similar to an overhead garage door latch) It is possible that you're not engaging the latch (I think that gives you the 90 degree stop). I will try and post some pictures later today.

I would not rule out the possibility that the fuel might be the issue. When I first got my 64 I tried using 89 octane and it would ping when going uphill. When I switched to 93 octane the problem stopped. 91 with no ethanol seems pretty rare (at least in gas stations around me). Summer humidity or low turnover at the pump may be having an affect. It can't hurt o try running some of the fuel out and trying some 93 to see if it makes a difference. My humble opinion based on personal experience.

There is also a Newcastle Pennsylvania and a Newcastle Delaware. There are probably others. But I think the Indiana license plate narrows it down.

I can only relate with the experience that I have had with my 49 248 (should be similar). The head is heavy, regardless of whether you choose to lift it with the intake and exhaust manifolds on or off, an engine hoist is recommended. The hood removed is necessary. If possible, try to remove the temperature sending unit without damaging the capillary tube that runs the whole way to the dash. I broke mine and it was expensive to replace. (I imagine a 53 I 8 would be similar but I am not sure). As far as the intake/exaust manifold was concerned, the hardest part was removing the bolts from the heat valve. If I remember correctly I had to drill and re tap at least one. I reused my original valve housing but removed the valve. Also I used a permatex ultra copper sealant around the intake ports (the second time around) after backfiring occured. My originaal problem was that the engine was burning oil due to worn piston rings, it ran well but smoked terribly. In the end I was able to hone the block in the car and replace the rings only. I don't know if your situation is similar to mine but if I were looking at an engine with the head off I would also be looking at the ring gap and wear on the cylinder wall. As far as the gaskets concerned, I used a Felpro engine kit from either Fusics or CARS. I don't think the thickness of the headgasket will not make a meanigfful difference either way. My two cents.

I think what they were describing is how the opposite lamp is used to illuminate the indicator lamp on the instrument panel. In their choice of words indicator lamps are on the dash, direction signal lamps are outside lamps. "Each indicator lamp (on the dash) is grounded through the opposite direction signal lamp" (on the outside)

You can try running a temporary ground from the lamp housing to the core support. If it helps, run it permanently. I can't remember what problem I was having with turn signal/parking lights on my 49 Super not working properly but the extra ground wire corrected it. I think they intended that the housings would ground with contact to the fender alone with fleshly painted surfaces, I was not getting good enough ground.

Thanks for the insight. Interesting bodystyle. Do you have any ideas on areas of concern if you were looking at one to purchase? Where do they tend to rust, leak or what parts are difficult to obtain? Thanks again

Just curious how you arrived at $4500.00. If I was interested in this car I would refer to on of the price guides that would put the value of a running functional car at about $8500.00. I would then add or subtract from that starting point based on an in person inspection. Curious what you are seeing that I don't.

I think what you are looking for is more like the fs470. It uses a one piece steel reinforcment/ retainer to attach it to the fender. If you are missing the retainers or if they are in unusable condition it will be hard to install as it was done from the factory. The image is not my car, just an example of how and where the original was installed.

I once bought a rare but not necessarily valuable car that was a complete basket case and mostly disassembled. I spent a lot of time and money on the front suspension and steering before I realized that how bad the car was prior to being taken apart and partially restored by th previous owner. I guess I was blinded by optimism and an inflated view of my own abilities at the time. I remember that I was happy to sell it at a loss to someone with a different vision of what it could be.

I did about the same swap a couple of years ago. When I did it I was considering pulling both pieces at once, but opted to pull them separately because I didn't want to damage anything by lifting both at such an extreme angle up over the core support. I used a transmission jack to support the transmission and at one point I had to improvise an engine support fixture to support the rear of the engine while I removed the bell housing bolts. If you decide to try and remove both pieces at once I would definitely want to have some help just to guide the tailshaft of the transmission and keep it in a safe place.

I would have preferred to do the job from under the hood as well, but when I looked into it it seemed like I may have had to cut the firewall to get the original core out. Even then there is only about two inches between the outside part of the heater case and the distributor. Also, there is a fragile fiberglass duct between the steel parts of the heater case that you risk breaking in the process. All said this seemed like a bigger PITA than the console. I have no regrets. It took about 6 hours not counting pauses to think things through, clean parts etc. I think I spent about a week after work and finished on a Saturday.

I replaced the heater core in my 64 non ac car in 2020. The replacment came from bestoffercounts.com. I had no trouble with the fit on the replacement. I did the removal and install from inside the car. I removed the seats for access (the passenger side carpet needed to be cleaned and dried also). The console can be moved back a few inches without disconnecting the heater control. I removed the plastic duct at the bottom of the steel heater core case to gain an additional inch. There was also a plastic cable stay that needed to be unfastened. The steel case was unbolted from under the hood and I was able to wiggle the whole thing out from under the dash. All and all it wasn't too bad, a lot of delicate brittle plastic. I don't know how much more trouble you would run into with ac if you have it. As far as the heater core itself is concerned, it has been installed for a couple of years now and I have no complaints. I checked his website and it still looks like they are available.

Took some pictures of the carburetor linkage and console shift pattern from my 64 with st400 if it helps.

I had a little time in my hands, so I thought I would use it to memorize an otherwise useless tool. On Tuesday of this past week I broke an intake manifold bolt. After analyzing the situation, I decided that the only solution would be to remove the manifold and remove the broken bolt. I then prepared to do battle. I bought gaskets, coolant etc. At the last munite I decided to try to tap an old worn out twelve point socket over the broken bolt. It worked! The bolt came outside with ease! I couldn't believe my luck! It saved me from probably 4 hours of work and materials. The socket was not so lucky, it is now so rounded off it is useless, but it served its purpose and then some. Thanks little socket.

The 6 inch wide wheel was part of an option for a larger tire size. Both optional tire sizes were available with the turbine wheel covers, however If I remember correctly the mounting studs are different due to the backspacing on the wheel. I never really thought about having my tires balanced with the covers on, never had a problem. I have two 64s, one with 6 inch wheels and turbine covers and one with 5.5 inch wheels and wire covers, both have Mastercraft 215 70r 15 radials installed within the last eight years. No problems. Took them the steels, they mounted and balanced, I brought them home and installed them and was good to go.

If you are taking the car to a shop make sure they know how the covers are installed before they work on it. Center caps first, lug nuts second, four nuts from the backside of the wheel third. You might also mention the X frame and make sure they have a hoist with long enough arms to reach the frame in the back. If you're still in doubt after talking with the advisor at the front counter, you might be better off to remove the wheels and turbines yourself and take just the steel rims to the shop for mount and balance.

Carter, they used specific models of the AFB for the oem.