Riviera63
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Posts posted by Riviera63
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10 minutes ago, RivNut said:
Thanks for the info. You didn't mention the color on the air cleaner. It looks a little more red than the factory, but it has a great finish.
Ed,
You are welcome. The air cleaner had already been painted before I bought the car. It has the crinkle finish and I'm thinking that it may be the picture/lighting which is causing it to look a little more red.
Bill
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21 hours ago, RivNut said:
The trunk key a glove box key are the same on a 63, the ignition and door locks are the same. Makes it nice for valet parking. The valet can enter and drive for car, but not the trunk and glove box.
My 63 Riviera has that same set up. All of my 63 Pontiacs were keyed this way as well.
Bill
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2 hours ago, RivNut said:
Off topic but very nice job on detailing your engine compartment. Looks great. Any hints for the rest of us? Like what kind of paint you used and the color. Something off the shelf or did you have it mixed?
Ed
Hi Ed,
Thanks for the kind words. They are greatly appreciated. I like others have gone through dozens of different paints in trying to detail their car. After all of this trial and error through the years the paints I have pictured are now my go to paints for any or all of the following reasons: easy to access or available locally, give a quality finish and are reasonably priced. Also not pictured plenty of elbow grease, degreaser, parts wash, wire brushes, steel wool and rags.
ENGINE-PlastiKote 207 Aluminum for the cooler areas of the engine and Rust-Oleum High Heat Ultra Silver 270201(grill paint) for the high heat areas. The Rust-Oleum is really great. It matches the Plastikote, holds up great under heat, is cheap and available locally. When my shop replaced my exhaust manifold they sprayed it with this and it still looks great. Once the Plastikote is gone I will stick to this exclusively.
ENGINE BAY-Eastwood Underhood Matte Black I love this stuff! While it is more expensive than off the shelf paint you can find locally, it dries almost instantly, gives a nice smooth finish, doesn't run, is durable and a can goes a long way.
BOLTS, NUTS, SCREWS, ETC.-While it may not be absolutely correct. I love the look of the high quality metal that most of the fasteners were made of and want it to show, I wire wheel these to get rust, grease and grime off and spray with several coats of gloss clear. This is cheap and readily available locally.
BARE METAL PARTS-For the bare metal parts like hood hinges, hood latches, brake booster, etc. I like Eastwood Stainless Steel Detail Coating. It dries quickly, gives a nice finish, durable and goes a long way. I also have pictured Rust-Oleum Appliance Epoxy 7887 Stainless Steel because even though the caps don't appear to match it gives a finish very similar to the Eastwood. It is cheaper and is available locally. I use this paint in other areas as well, seat tracks, the post of the jack, various parts of the mechanisms inside the doors, etc.
I have also attached some more up to date pictures of my engine bay.
Bill
P.S. One I forgot as it is visible in the engine compartment is Rust-Oleum 7278830 Metallic Matte Silver-cheap, available locally, dries fast and looks nice. I used this when I redid the silver top (visible in the engine pictures) and silver inside the grille. I also used this when I redid the turn signal bezels and the lower turn signal extensions. I thought it was a nice match.
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4 hours ago, TKRIV said:
My 65 Windscreen washer pump does not work. Diaphragm is long gone.
Bought after market diaphragm (stated for 65 Riv) but does not fit and cannot be modified to fit.
So I am dropped the idea of repairing the original pump mounted on the windscreen motor.
I need a new pump that provides suction out of the bottle. There are plenty of after market
pumps but they must be fitted at the bottom of the washer tank so they always have a head of water.
Unless they have a head of water they will not work.
Has anyone had a similar problem and know of a pump that produces suction out of the bottle and
onward via tubes to the windscreen. If such a pump exists then I can place it inside the fender and it will
look 99.9% original.
Cheers
TomK
Tom,
My car had an aftermarket pump it when I bought it. It is very small and mounted on the firewall. It works very well. It is small enough that you could probably mount it anywhere. I'm pretty sure you could pick one of these up at any parts store.
Bill
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46 minutes ago, 1965rivgs said:
Good to know Bill, thanks. What is the black substance applied around the perimeter?
Tom
Tom,
If you look at my first picture of my button you will notice that there is/are spots where the black has worn off and you can see a clear spot(s). I have found out working with the plastic center discs on the wire wheel covers if you paint the backside where they are worn it will help them look blacker and those light or clear spots are less noticeable. With the hood button I took a black magic marker to it to mask some of those spots.
Bill
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19 hours ago, 1965rivgs said:
Have some pics of the hood emblem which is the reason I started this thread... this seems to be more appropriately engineered as there is a raised square shoulder on the emblem which indexes into a relief in the hood molding. Fit in the hood molding opening is perfect.
Tom
Tom,
I went back and reexamined my hood button and hood spear. The hood spear has the notch and the hood button has the square raised shoulder. I missed this the first time. I am thinking that when I reinstalled the button the first time I must have raised the button when I first started to put the cut nut back on so that it was above the notch and spun. When I reinstalled the second time I held it down so that it stayed engaged until I took up the play in the cut nut.
Bill
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6 minutes ago, Bdad said:
Looks like the battery in my recently received '63 doesn't have the retainer. Tray itself looks ok. To be as authentic as possible suggestions on source(s) for the battery retainer hardware?
Also, suggestions on batteries?
CARS, Inc. Old Buick Parts Numbers are: clamp-BC635-4 and clamp bolt-BB635-4
http://www.oldbuickparts.com/index.php?cPath=27_354_358
Bill
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23 minutes ago, 1965rivgs said:
Yes Bill,
Tom
Thanks Tom. I suppose these are tough to find. If anyone has one I am interested.
Bill
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22 minutes ago, 1965rivgs said:
Bill,
Is there a square projection on the edge of your hood button? Which indexes into a relief in the molding to keep the button centered while tightening the nut? It appears so but is hard to tell from the pics, thanks in advance,
Tom
Tom,
No, There is nothing to keep the button from twisting as you tighten. You need to hold in place to keep the tri-shield centered while tightening. The edges of the button are beveled so that the button sits down and is flush with the top of the molding. I hope this answers your question. I can take more/different pics if you want.
Bill
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16 minutes ago, RivNut said:
U nuts
or J nuts
depending on the length of the non-threaded side.
Thanks Ed.
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7 minutes ago, gungeey said:
this is what they had so no cuts on your hands at the gas station
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Is that license plate frame something that originally came with the car when new? Thanks.
Bill
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59 minutes ago, Bdad said:
My '63 just got delivered. The seller kept the plates (I had to replace with my state). I need to know what to use to attach the license plates. No bolts on them to use. Appreciate guidance.
The fasteners pictured above will work for the rear. One thing I found helpful on those screws on the rear is to grind the point off so that it does not protrude beyond the plastic fastener. This will save you many scrapes on your hands and wrist when fueling.
The front plates are held on differently. Mine were missing there when I got my car. I have no idea what the original method was and I'm sure there are others as well besides the method I devised. I am not sure what these fasteners are called but, they work well in this application with a license plate screw. They are 3/4" in length.
Bill
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2 hours ago, RivNut said:
What you need to realize in Jim's write up that he uses a T fitting in the line to the rear wheels for the hydraulically actuated brake light switch which is unique to the 63 Riviera. In 64, the brake light switch is actuated by the brake pedal arm. If you have a 63, you'll need to insert the T for the brake light switch; if you have a 64 or 65, the T is not needed.
There is a complete write up, including scaled drawings for a bracket, in the Tech Tips section on the ROA website for this operation.
If youre doing this on a drum/drum system, as Jim did, this does not improve the braking of your car, it's a safety factor in case one of your lines breaks.
Good catch Ed, I should have mentioned that about the T not being needed for the 64-65.
The write up on the ROA website is essentially the same as what Jim outlined but somewhat more complicated. With the above method you don't have to replace the distribution block and fabricate a mounting bracket, your original distribution block is utilized. Also, if you are doing this on a 63 you do not have to mount and rewire a new brake light switch as outlined on the website. An original style brake light switch is included with the T from Inline Tube. The wires that ran to the switch on the original master cylinder are long enough to reach the new switch in the T.
Bill
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10 hours ago, psychostang said:
For anyone who has a dual channel M/C, what parts and pieces did you use to connect the front and rear lines to the Prop Valve?
Also, for those who have converted to rear disk, did you order a new axle line for disk brakes or did you reflare the stock line?
Here is the procedure Jim Cannon suggested. As he said there are many ways to do this. I followed this procedure with my car. It was inexpensive and worked very well.
Like anything, there are multiple ways to do it.
Here is what I recommend:
Keep the factory distribution block on the frame. Remove the line going to the rear axle and plug it. Connect the port on the block that goes to the stock MC up to the FRONT port of the dual MC. You need to fabricate a line to do this, with double-flared ends at both ends. Put some slack in the line by making a Z-shaped portion or a coil The tube nut size on the front MC port is different from stock MC, but is easily obtained. That takes care of the front wheels.
For the rear axle, you want to fabricate a new line that goes from the REAR port of the dual MC down to the frame in the vicinity of the distribution block. Include a coil or a Z for slack. Use a T-fitting style union made for brake light switch to connect the end of your new rear line to the existing rear line that come off of the original distribution block. The 2 union-type ends will be tube fittings. You connect the line to the rear axle to one of them and the line up to the dual MC to the other. It is equivalent to a straight-through union. The T-part of the fitting is 1/8" NPT, not flared tubing. The stock brake light switch screws right into it. The wires on the stock wiring harness are long enough to reach down to the frame by the distribution block. You do not need to splice any electric or cut anything.
To keep the lines from vibrating against each other, I tied the lines to each other with a couple of small zip ties.
I got the 3/16" tubing, the master fittings STN-7 and STN-5, the T-fitting BS-01(the T-fitting comes with a new brake light switch attached) and everything from Inline Tube. I might have gotten the plug from them, I don't remember. Call them.
You do not need a proportioning valve for the drum-drum system. Crude proportioning is already included in the wheel cylinder cup/piston diameter difference between front and rear. Connecting lines as I describe will maintain the factory proportioning, for better or for worse. (I used to design brake systems.)
The brake light switch is hard to bleed air out of. Fill it with fluid before screwing into the T-fitting. Try to keep it contacts down until you bleed the system, then invert it.
Regarding which dual MC to use:
You need to remove your stock MC from the car and look at the end of the piston that the booster pin presses against. It will be either a (roughly) 1" deep hole or a 1/4" deep dimple. The new dual MC that you install needs to have that same depth "hole". It will be either one or the other. Trying to put the wrong one in will not work.
If you are keeping your STOCK booster, you need to put an o-ring on the neck of the new MC where it inserts into the booster, or else you will have no boost (due to vacuum leak at the neck). Either move the original o-ring over to the booster or get a new o-ring. The only guy I know that sells this special o-ring is Booster Dewey out in Oregon. You might try NAPA or other places and find it. If you were to "cut" the o-ring and look at the cut surface, it would not be a circle. It would be a small square. So it is not really a conventional o-ring. It is specific to this application.
HTH.
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For sale is a complete set of 8 original interior door and rear quarter panel woodgrain trim spears for the 1976 Oldsmobile Cutlass 2-door. Two required per door/quarter panel. May be correct for other years 1973-1977? These are in nice condition front and back. $25.00 plus S & H. Please PM me if interested or e-mail me at: billmawbey@hotmail.com Thanks.
Bill
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New price $20.00 shipped.
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New price $10.00 plus S & H.
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New price $50.00 each.
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New Price $30.00 plus S & H.
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New price $25.00 shipped.
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'63 Windshield Washerf filter & hose
in Buick Riviera
Posted
Hi Tom,
Go to E-bay(or Amazon) and search for "universal windscreen pump". There are many that are under $4.00 US with free shipping.
Bill
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Windshield-Windscreen-Wiper-Washer-Pump-for-Car-Van-Bus-Truck-Universal-AWP01/253067203175?epid=2147586735&hash=item3aebfb1267:g:~6sAAOSwN3pbM2D5:rk:2:pf:0&vxp=mtr
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1Pc-12V-2-Pin-Universal-Car-Van-Bus-Truck-Windshield-Windscreen-Washer-Pump-BT/162608055831?epid=2147414187&hash=item25dc320617:g:NqQAAOSw~R1bMfxL:rk:3:pf:0&vxp=mtr
https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Windscreen-Washer-Windshield-Water/dp/B079PYX2Q7/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1541075242&sr=1-2&keywords=universal+windshield+washer+pump