Riviera63
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Posts posted by Riviera63
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1 hour ago, rodneybeauchamp said:
Hi Bill,
i did mine the other week and had the same issue. The original is held with a hard plastic push in pin that goes over a wire loop just like you found.
I ended up cutting the thick fixing point that juts out to about 1.5 - 2.0mm thick then used one of the old pins.
If you keep it at the thickness supplied it fouls the door. I first tried a Phillips head screw and only succeeded in scratching all the door surround. Boy did my installer get a talking too. ??????
Unfortunately it enlarged the hole so now I need a thicker pin on that side.
Drivers side went really well after I learnt how to do it correctly on the passenger side. I’m a big believer in working on someone else’s car first before you do your own, that way if you stuff it up, doesn’t matter!?????
if you you need pics let me know.
Rodney0
Hi Rodney,
Thanks for replying. What you came up with for a fix came to me in the middle of the night. I did have the concern that being that thick it would bind in the door and that a screw might scratch. The vendor did mention that there was a metal tab in that thick attaching point, so cutting it down won't compromise its strength or holding power. I'm sorry that you had damage done to your car.
At least I can finally get this simple project that was begun 6 weeks ago finished. I originally had ordered a set from CARS. I had the old weatherstrip out and the door cleaned and ready for the new pieces. I pulled them out and found that they had been manufactured incorrectly. The pins were in the reverse order of what they should have been. See pics. I contacted them and they said they would send a new set. They must have had a bad batch from their manufacturer as they did not have a good set to send me. I waited 5 weeks for them to get some in and finally cancelled the order and got my money back. I then ordered a set from Rubber the Right Way. Several days after I ordered I received a message that they were on back order. I called them and they said 2-3 weeks before they would be in. I cancelled that order and got my money back. I then ordered the current set from a vendor on e-bay. The current set I have is from Metro which coincidentally is the supplier for Rubber the Right Way. (for about $30 more than I paid from this other vendor) For people that order a Metro set this is what you will have to deal with.
Send me a couple of pics if you get a chance.
Thanks,
Bill
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Could anyone at least describe what that attaching tab is supposed to look like for me please? Here is what was on the set I received today. There was no pin supplied to attach with and no directions given with the set as to how to attach. See pics. I reached out to the vendor that I purchased them from and they said I was supposed to use a sheet metal screw. to attach with. The set I removed had a wire loop/tab that was held in place by a black pin like the ones that hold the end above it in. I also reached out to the manufacturer and the manufacturer said that no one has asked about this tab, questioned it and how it should be attached EVER. They were perplexed and said they would get back to me. They got back to me and said that they were sending me some longer pins that should work to attach it with. The normal size pins are too short. Any help appreciated as to what was on an original set. Thanks.
Bill
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I have been trying for 6 weeks now to get weatherstrip for and/or installed around the doors on my car. A frustrating ordeal that started out as a simple afternoon project on a nice summer day. I am asking for a favor from one of you with a 63-65 Riviera. I need a picture of the original or correct replacement metal loop/tab that is attached 4 or 5 inches down from the top of the door please. See pic. Mine old ones are long gone and were a replacement set so I don't know if they were the same as the originals. I am in contact with one of the weatherstrip manufacturers that is not believing their product is not complete and not correct. Thanks.
Bill
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7 hours ago, KongaMan said:
You don't need to take the seat out, but it's sure a lot easier to grub around under there if it's out of the way. Generally speaking, don't remove the console for anything unless you absolutely must.
I totally agree with that. I replaced the knee dash pad on the passenger side of my car awhile back. While doing this I also removed the brackets for the evaporator to clean and paint them. Not too bad taking everything out with the seat in but, getting everything back in was a different story. If you are like me you are finding that your body does not bend and twist like it used too. Taking the seat out makes things much easier.
Bill
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9 minutes ago, Wedgewood64 said:
Thanks Bill, Ed, Jframe. I guess I'll venture into the tank, then.
Thanks Bill for reposting that picture of the ground wire set-up--I had seen it somewhere in the forum but then lost it. Those rubber insulators you added--not stock, right? What's the purpose? (Definitely need a ground with those, I guess).
nick
Nick,
That is truck topper tape. It was added to create some space between my fuel tank and the trunk floor. Part of my rattle problem was things hitting/rubbing on the trunk floor. Scroll down from the beginning of the link you first posted. (I copied it here) You will find where I posted pictures that showed this and talked about the fixing of my rattle.
Bill
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21 minutes ago, Bdad said:
Was just sorting through WI for State and then highlighting the cities and looking them up on the map. I'm marking people who list a 63-64-65 as being owned. So far, not finding anyone reasonably near Green Bay. I don't want to ask someone to drive a long distance. If necessary perhaps I should try to find a service in the Green Bay area that is mobile and can do a classic car inspection?
Not that bad of a drive for me, it's 4 lane all the way. I would be happy to help out if you need it. I can also give you the name of an inspector. He is located about half way between Green Bay and Stevens Point. I would trust him. His name is John Gunnell. He has been an automotive author for over 40 years writing books and still writes articles for national publications. He also began a restoration garage known as "Gunner's Great Garage" after "retiring". Pontiac people will probably recognize his name. I know John and he has even done work on one of my collector cars. Among his many talents is classic car inspection and evaluation. I would trust him to give a fair, unbiased evaluation. Home phone number is 715-445-4262. The home number may be tied up by his computer as he is rural. Another number is 920-596-2273. i don't know if that is his cell phone or the garage number. I can do some more digging if you want.
Bill
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1 hour ago, Bdad said:
I have need of someone familiar with '65 Riv's to take a look at a car in the Green Bay area. Wondering if anyone would have suggestions of someone I can contact. I have the details about the car and am hopeful but I really could use help from someone knowledgeable.
Appreciate suggestions.
Dick
Dick,
Do as Ed said and look people in Green Bay. Other cities which are very close to Green Bay that you can also look for people are Appleton, Oshkosh, Neenah or DePere .I am in Stevens Point which is about 1 1/2 hours away. If you can't find anyone closer give me a shout.
Bill
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8 hours ago, Wedgewood64 said:
Hello all,
After determining that the no doubt original rubber hoses from the tank were leaking, I just dropped the tank, according to the procedures found on the Forum. Happily, straightforward operation, tho I still smell like gas. After doing this, I kind of realized that I didn't really need to take the tank out -- I could have just let the front end of it down, I think, and changed the hoses. Well, anyway. So it's out. Now, aside from taking on the Riviera Rattle problem (helpfully diagnosed on: http://forums.aaca.org/topic/211803-riviera-rattle-first-generation-cause-and-repair/?tab=comments#comment-1087545), should I do anything else now that it's out? my fuel gauge shows 1/4 when empty, and buries the needle when full: but do I really want to mess with that? Should I leave the nice yellow sender wire as is? And does all this moving around risk dislodging crap that will foul the filter? Any precautions on that front? Should I empty the bit of gas in there out?
Many thanks in advance,
Nick (ROA number ten thousand something)
Nick,
I had my tank dropped last fall to cure the Riviera Rattle. For sure pull the sending unit, check the filter sock and clean out the tank. Here's a picture of what my filter sock looked like. Might be a good idea to redo the ground wire as well.
Bill
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Yes, the base is used to hold down the spare on the rear shelf. Look at the 2nd picture I posted up above.
Bill
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48 minutes ago, MikeJS said:
Good day.
Great info here on properly mounting the jack and handle, thanks.
I'm just doing the trunk in my '64, and was wondering if someone can share photos of how the other two parts of the jack, (the base and the big hook thingy) are properly factory mounted. I have the spare tire half-cover and a mounting bracket on the shelf, but I don't have any hardware to actually fix the tire to the bracket on the shelf. I assume that the jack base is bolted to the rim somehow, but where would the jack's hook go? Any advice on the acquiring (or DIY fabricating) the mounting hardware would be greatly appreciated.
Later,
Mike Swick
Edmonton, AB
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As Ed said go to post #8 for how to mount the jack along the side. I have attached pictures of my half cover mounted on the tire and the hardware you need to fix the tire to the rear shelf. I hope this helps. The hardware to affix the jack to the trunk and to affix the spare to the rear shelf should be readily available from any number of the vendors that advertise in the Riview.
Bill
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Will accept reasonable offers. I just want it to go to a good home. Thanks.
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Hat is sold.
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1 hour ago, JZRIV said:
As you see what CARs has now are blems. Apparently they haven't attempted to get more reproduced. In your case an imperfect mat may not satisfy since your lining isn't all that bad to begin with.
These do show up NOS once in awhile.
I talked to Jeff of CARS in 2014 at the ROA meet in Colorado Springs about the tan trunk mats. He said at that time they had a problem with production and had no plans to try to produce more. He mentioned the blems to me at that time. I did order one of the blems the next year. The problem with them was a chalky look on a portion of the surface. I was able to bring it back to a presentable condition using various products such as vinyl protectant, car wax, etc. I am satisfied with the result and it was cheap. It is not perfect. In fact, the result gave it the look of a slightly used original rather than a squeaky, clean repro. I do have to be somewhat careful as it seems to scuff easily. I keep a blanket over it and got a cheap tan trunk mat on e-bay that was able to be cut to fit the whole trunk area over the blanket.This set up allows me to protect the trunk mat and also keeps my trunk liner clean and stain free.
Ken, this was the same trunk mat that was in my car at the BCA Heartland Regional. A blem might be worth a try.
Bill
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46 minutes ago, PWB said:
Say, Mr Bill
The next time the wife throws me to the dog house, may I crash in that beautiful trunk?
As long as you take your shoes off and you have to bring your own pillow.
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My wife and I were out going to rummage sales yesterday and ran across a very interesting find. It was something I had never seen before and was too cool to pass up. It is pretty self-explanatory as to what it is and where it came from. I found the extensions on the top board interesting and assume they are meant to be handles for carrying/moving the crate. As evidenced by its appearance and the fact that it is from "United Motors Services, Inc." and not United Delco or AC-Delco leads me to believe it is from a fairly early stage of General Motors. While it is not directly related to the Riviera I thought it would be interesting for you to see. Enjoy.
Bill
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1 hour ago, Devjas said:
Thanks to both Seafoam and Bill for you pics. It's exactly what I needed to see. Now I can put it all together.
I really like the way Bill attached the tire iron to the arm... How is it attached? Tape? Velcro?
I tried the bicycle inner tube and did not like the fit nor the look. I found and used black velcro straps. I think it looks more finished, it holds the tire iron very tightly to the jack and they are easy to remove and put on without taking out the jack.
Bill
P.S. I did put rubber tubing on both ends of the jack where it rests in the V-shaped brackets that were pictured by Ed. It keeps it from rattling and also keeps the jack from getting nicked up by the bracket. You can see it on the lower end in my picture.
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10 hours ago, Devjas said:
Asking for help...I want my tire jack to look correct in my trunk..I found the original hook and spring but don’t know how it’s put in place.
Any photos of the correct setup would be greatly appreciated...
This is a shot of my 63. I assume 65 is the same. Hope this helps.
Bill
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In Wisconsin you pay the initial sales tax for the purchase of the vehicle. No additional taxes are assessed ever and no inspections. You can purchase a regular license plate (which can be personalized) and then pay the annual $75.00 renewal fee. You can also get a "Collector" plate for cars with few or no alterations from original once it is 20 years old. You pay a one time fee of $200 and then pay no additional license fees as long as you own the car. You cannot drive the car in the month of January. Once you get the plate(s) those are yours for life. When you sell the car you keep the plates and you may use them again on other cars after paying another fee which is less than the original fee. There is also a "Hobbyist" plate for cars that are highly modified such as street rods or hot rods. The same rules apply for these plates as the Collector plates.
Bill
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Thought I would post a couple of pictures to show the area I am talking about. DualQuadDave has graciously offered to guide me through the process and I will gladly accept his help. I still would like to hear from others about their experiences and where they sourced the replacements. I have only seen Steele Rubber and Rubber the Right Way carrying replacements. Is one better than the other? Are there any others that carry replacements? Thanks.
Bill
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Window fuzzies are taken.
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I need to replace the flocked division channel on the backside of the vent window post and have some questions for anyone that has done this. Can this be accomplished with the vent window assembly in place or will I need to remove the vent window assembly from the door? How is the that channel held in place? Any pitfalls or problems I might encounter that I need to be prepared for? I see that both Steele Rubber and Rubber the Right Way sells the replacement kits. Has anyone had experience with either one? Any help, tips or advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Bill
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6 hours ago, riv2x4 said:
I'll take them. Advise on shipping to 60048.
Larry
PM sent.
Weatherstrip Help Needed
in Buick Riviera
Posted
I am contemplating sending the Metro weatherstrip back as their is no metal tab inside the thick rubber tab as the vendor said there was. I was checking to see other alternatives. I know that I can get them from Steele Rubber but, wanted to see if there were any others. Just for the heck of it I went to the OPGI (I know, I know) website to look at their weatherstrip and got a little surprise. They advertise that their weatherstrip is made by Metro Moulded Parts, Inc. The weatherstrip they have pictured has the metal tabs as I think they should have. See pic. I find it curious that there would be 2 different Metro versions out there. I would have been happy with that version. I reached out to Metro asking about this and will be curious to see their response.
Bill