Riviera63
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Posts posted by Riviera63
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1.) 10 very nice right hand thread lug nuts
59.) 1965 lower front bumper support bar
68.) Console heater air hose spring clamps
95.) 1965 front bumper filler panel/lower tie panel
112.) 1965 Headlight Switch
119.) Upper cowl panel
134.) Blower motor to firewall ground wire
138.) 1965 speedometer cable with housing and connectors
141.) Master cylinder with screw on cap
146.) 1965 Brake booster
148.) Throttle operating lever with throttle return spring
156.) Heater box with gasket
161.) Power Steering gear box
167.) 1963 left side dash access panel
174.) 1963-1965 deluxe interior door armrest pads-have 2-will fit either side
178.) Horn bracket with attaching hardware-for horn(s) behind grill
183.) 1963 fuse box bracket
186.) Steering column support brackets
212.) 1963 heater/AC switch dash cover plate
218.) Front seat inner side chrome trim piece
223.) Passenger side upper dash trim
224.) Passenger side lower dash trim
230.) Dash clock mounting bracket
231.) Firewall vacuum diaphragm mounting bracket and attaching hardware
234.) Deluxe interior passenger's side armrest end caps with attaching screws
236.) Driver's side upper dash trim
256.) Passenger outside A-pillar stainless trim molding
290.) Door power window wiring conduit
291.) Pair 1963 sun visor boards
312.) 1963 Neutral safety switch
314.) Driver's side spark plug wire loom bracket
325.) 63-64 taillight housings passenger and driver's side
331.) 1963 right vent control cable non-AC
332.) 1963 left vent control cable non-AC
333.) 1963 rear heat control cable
334.) 1963 defroster control cable
340.) 4-blade fan with spacer and bolts
341.) Trunk lock catch assembly with attaching hardware
349.) Deluxe interior armrest end caps-for cars with manual windows
355.) 1963 heater assembly lens non-AC car
365.) 1963-1964 gauge lens with bezel
367.) 1963-1964 air cleaner
370.) Passenger side console kick panel extension
371.) Pair dashboard/dash pad end caps
375.) Front manual seat adjuster spring
378.) 1963-1964 speedometer lens and bezel
383.) 1963 tail light center medallion
385.) License plate light lens
393.) 1963 temperature control cable
394.) 1963 AC cool control cable
395.) 1963 with AC heat control cable
399.) Wiper motor attaching screws and control arm attaching clip
400.) Rear speaker plug
403.) Dash pad mounting hardware
405.) Rear console heat vent attaching clips and screws
408.) Rear quarter window passenger's RH beltline molding
409.) Pair vent window cranks
410.) 1963-1964 manual window crank
411.) Driver's LH vent window assembly frame leading edge chrome #5715083
414.) 1963 console shifter assembly
415.) 1965 console shifter assembly
416.) Console shifter tunnel & boot
421.) Lower door hinge spring
422.) Passenger side spark plug wire loom bracket
423.) 1963 neutral safety switch wiring harness with connectors
427.) 1963 trunk lid letter "C" with attaching clips
434.) Passenger side console carpet trim molding
435.) Driver's side console carpet trim molding
439.) Hood hinge bolts
441.) New Steele Rubber antenna lead firewall grommet
442.) 1963 glovebox light & switch
444.) 1963 Heater/AC inner fender control box wiring
451.) Passenger LH vent window leading edge chrome 5715082
453.) Clear vent window glass
454.) Optikleen bottle bracket
455.) Lower windshield RH passenger side trim molding
456.) Lower windshield LH driver side trim molding
457.) Roofline weatherstrip molding
458.) Tinted rear quarter window glass
459.) Clear rear quarter window glass
460.) Driver's LH rear quarter window beltline trim molding
461.) Pair stainless headlight retainer rings
462.) Passenger manual seat track adjuster shield
463.) Driver's LH vent window beltline trim molding
468.) Driver's side lower dash trim
470.) Passenger inner fender antenna access panel with hardware
471.) A-pillar weatherstrip molding
473.) Assorted fender shims
474.) Delco Remy alternator 1100668 date code 4 A 16
477.) 1963 tail light lens
479.) Lower dash access panel attachment clips
483.) 1963 dash clock
484.) 1963-1964 black steering wheel
486.) Passenger door long beltline molding
487.) Driver's side dashboard gauge cluster surround-non AC car
488.) Passenger side dashboard glovebox surround-AC car
489.) Passenger side dashboard glovebox surround-non AC car
490.) 1963 center hood spear
491.) 1963-1964 gauge cluster faceplate with lenses
493.) 1963-1964 rear license plate holder
494.) Sail panel wiring harness
495.) Driver's side spark plug loom bracket
496.) 1965 small Gran Sport fender/trunk emblem
497.) 1965 large Gran Sport fender emblem
498.) 1965 large Gran Sport trunk emblem
499.) Power window switch-passenger door & rear quarter window-standard interior
500.) Power window switch-rear quarter window-Deluxe Interior
501.) Power window switch-passenger door-Deluxe Interior
502.) New 1966-1967 parking brake release handle
502.) 1963-1967 fender & 1967 hood Riviera script emblem
503.) 1964-1965 trunk Riviera script emblem
504.) New 1964-1965 trunk Riviera script emblem
505.) New 1963-1972 trunk lock with keys, gasket, clip & stem
506.) Nailhead starter exhaust heat shield
507.) Nailhead PCV valve oil deflector
508.) 1965 vacuum trunk release canister
509.) 1963-1964 back up/reverse light assembly
510.) Radiator overflow hose brackets
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A 10 on the data plate would be October of 1963.
Bill
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15 minutes ago, RivNut said:
Update: With some phone help from Bill Mawby, I was able to disassemble a seat transmission and use the cables to check the operation of the power seat functions. I’m happy to report that using my cordless drill on one end of a cable with the other end connected to the seat gears that I have fore and aft movement as well as up and down movement. Clean up some old hardened grease, regrease and assemble, and keep my fingers crossed that everything works when I get it in the car.
Ed,
Put it back with the seat but, test the seat before you put it back in the car.
Bill
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6 hours ago, RivNut said:
Bill,
I’ve got everything ready to go except bench checking everything. The harness and switch are about 6 hours from me so I need to improvise.
1) I thought that I could try to raise/lower and move the seat forward and back to check movement but the cables from the transmission are secured to the transmission by a bracket that appears to be riveted to the transmission body. Is it possible to remove that bracket and release the cables from the transmission? I thought perhaps that I could connect a cable to my cordless drill and check the movements.2) I can figure out how to check the motor, but how do I bench test the transmission?
Thanks,
Ed
Ed,
PM sent.
Bill
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9 hours ago, RivNut said:
I soaked one power seat frame in molasses but during the soak all the rust came off but This piece was eaten and I had no threads for the cable attachment. When you did the Evaporust soak did it bother this piece. My seat frame is rusted in the down position and I have no access to one of the two bolts that secure this piece. I can soak everything if this piece will be safe. Your knowledge will be most appreciated. Did you also soak the relay?
Thanks,
Ed
Ed,
I removed that gear box from the track. I don't remember if I soaked it in Evaporust or not. I probably did. I know that I soaked it in degreaser to get all of that old, hard grease out of it so that I could relube it. It is all metal so I I don't think soaking it in a rust remover will bother it. It sounds like you will have to replace that gear box anyway as there are no threads for the cable to attach to.
I did not soak the relay and don't think that would be a good idea. I cleaned the rust off with the wire wheel on my grinder and then painted it. If your relay is not good James Kehr sells new ones.
Bill
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4 hours ago, RivNut said:
Has anyone disassemble the power seat frame for cleaning? I also need to insert a glide into the channel. I am not concerned with the motor, cables, or transmission, just the frame work. I need to clean the surface rust off EVERYTHING so it operates flawlessly.
Thanks,
Ed
Hi Ed,
I completely disassembled mine a few years ago. This post I did back then should help you. I can also give you some tips I got from a gentleman that does this for a living. That might be better done in a phone conversation.
Bill
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All 1st Generation Rivieras had chrome cowl vents. The chrome edges were visible and the rest of the cowl vent was painted the body color.
Bill
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1 hour ago, RIVNIK said:
wow Bill, I believe you missed a small speck of dust on that inner fender. BTW do you think that rubber cover can be pushed on over the connector or will it have to be removed from the cable?
Drew,
Thanks for pointing that out. I knew I should have cleaned the engine compartment before taking that picture. I will try to do better the next time. As far as the cover goes I am not quite sure what you are asking. I will try to answer. To install the cover you need to remove the positive cable from the horn relay. The positive cable goes through the tunnel on the rear. Once it is on the positive cable, you reattach it to the relay and pull it over the connection.
Bill
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25 minutes ago, Jim Cannon said:
John-
My '63 Riviera has a steel line running under the body that ends under the passenger door hinges (more or less) and a rubber fuel line running from there to the fuel pump (I think, it has been 10 years since I have been under there). I think that hose connects to the fuel pump. I thought the fuel line was 5/16". There is a vapor return line off of the fuel filter that I think is 1/4" rubber fuel line.
What is missing from these fuel pumps, and why do we need it?
Perhaps my car's fuel pump was changed over from the original type to this replacement type before I bought it 24 years ago.
This is what my car has as well. 5/16" fuel line and 1/4" vapor return line. Spare fuel pump I carry on long trips also 5/16". This spare pump was purchased from Advance Auto Parts.
Bill
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16 minutes ago, Electra63 said:
Hello folks
I have a question that I cannot find an answer to on the internet....
why is the positive cable post on the horn relay base left exposed? I'm referring to the threaded post & nut in the attached photo
It seems to me that this is a live positive with the risk of accidentally making contact with it while working on the vehicle (unless the battery is disconnected of course)
Has anyone insulated this on their vehicle? Not necessary?
thanks
Mark
There is a rubber cover available through various vendors. I will try to get a picture of the one on my 1963 Riviera tomorrow.
Bill
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10 years and going strong with my fuel pump from NAPA.
Bill
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10 minutes ago, gungeey said:
Good job, Bill. If the rubber horseshoe has to get split one could use the 2nd half for the inside, too.
Steve,
That is an excellent idea and makes perfect sense. Honestly, it never occurred to me to do that. I am sure my anal little mind was working overtime trying to find something that was like the original even though no one can see what is there because it is hidden.
Bill
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I am not advocating for doing it one way or the other. I just wanted to relate my experience when dealing with this area on my car in hopes of being helpful to someone else.
In the first picture you can see the bumper/grommet that goes between the inside of the bumper and the side of the fender where the bolt goes through. This bumper/grommet is 5/8" thick. When I removed my bumper to take it to be rechromed I found that the space between the inside of the bumper and the fender to be very narrow. So narrow that rubber bumper had to be cut in half in order to fit the bumper back in place. In the 2nd picture you can see the old rubber bumpers that were taken out have been cut in half.
In the 3rd picture you can see the rubber bumper/grommet that goes on the metal sleeve that goes through the hole in the fender from the inside. The bolt goes through this metal sleeve to connect with the bumper. These bumpers/grommets were not in good shape and replacements were not available (at least at the time). As a substitute I found a Steele Rubber grommet that works vey well as a replacement when cut in half. See picture number 5.
With my bumper having so little clearance between it and the side of the fender getting it back in place without doing any damage to the paint was a challenge. With so little clearance I feel much better with everything being used and firmly in place.
Bill
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15 minutes ago, JCin said:
Hi
Suddenly, the radio and power antenna on our '65 Riviera stopped working. All the fuses look good. Does anyone know if the radio & power antenna are on the same fuse ? Any advice would help.
Thank You
JCin
They were not in 1963, so I would guess not in 1965.
These can be your 2 best friends. A laminated, colored wiring schematic and the Chassis Manual.
Bill
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I am guessing that EUC 151946 is the Euclid, Ohio plant and production number.
Bill
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For those that are interested, here is a picture of the cornering light sockets and wire harness.
Bill
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10 hours ago, XframeFX said:
I'm bringing this back after putting some miles on my 1963 Riviera this week - FINALLY.
I am quite pleased how it's running. So much so, I am noticing other trivial things instead of re-addressing issues.
One observation is that cornering lights only operate with PARK Lights, NOT Headlights or both. I always thought they operated with headlights as Tom T. commented.
Normally I'd consult the schematic in my Shop Manuals. But, they are packed away somewhere.
I've always wondered the designers original intent with the H2 option which became a handling package in 1965. No cornering lights for the final year of 1st Generation Rivieras.
I question Cornering Light operation and effectiveness.
Perhaps my Relay modification for High Beam changed things. However, I can't see it. Again, need to follow the circuit in the schematic.
Also, I believe there's no difference to the Light switch with or without this option.
Comments from other observations on Cornering Lights operation?
Thanks!
Hi John,
As Ed says the cornering lights work through the turn signal switch. The turn signal switch for cornering lights has nine pins (not cheap and hard to find) while the regular turn signal switch has only six. The extra 3 pins are for the cornering lights. Depending on the build date of your car the wiring for the cornering lights will be there under the dash to plug into the turn signal switch.
In order for the cornering lights to be activated the headlights need to be on and the turn signal has to be activated. Once the turn signal is deactivated the cornering lights go off.
There is no difference in the headlight switch with or without cornering lights. I added them to my car. After I obtained the correct turn signal switch and the wiring harness with bulb socket for the cornering lights that plug into the headlight harness, it was plug and play. No modifications necessary. I don't think adding a relay will have changed things as far as cornering light operation goes. The lights just have to be on in order for the cornering lights to work.
The cornering lights use an 1195 bulb. I believe I had to find mine on e-bay.
Bill
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1.) 10 very nice right hand thread lug nuts
59.) 1965 lower front bumper support bar
68.) Console heater air hose spring clamps
95.) 1965 front bumper filler panel/lower tie panel
112.) 1965 Headlight Switch
119.) Upper cowl panel
134.) Blower motor to firewall ground wire
138.) 1965 speedometer cable with housing and connectors
141.) Master cylinder with screw on cap
146.) 1965 Brake booster
148.) Throttle operating lever with throttle return spring
156.) Heater box with gasket
161.) Power Steering gear box
167.) 1963 left side dash access panel
174.) 1963-1965 deluxe interior door armrest pads-have 2-will fit either side
178.) Horn bracket with attaching hardware-for horn(s) behind grill
183.) 1963 fuse box bracket
186.) Steering column support brackets
212.) 1963 heater/AC switch dash cover plate
218.) Front seat inner side chrome trim piece
223.) Passenger side upper dash trim
224.) Passenger side lower dash trim
230.) Dash clock mounting bracket
231.) Firewall vacuum diaphragm mounting bracket and attaching hardware
234.) Deluxe interior passenger's side armrest end caps with attaching screws
236.) Driver's side upper dash trim
256.) Passenger outside A-pillar stainless trim molding
290.) Door power window wiring conduit
291.) Pair 1963 sun visor boards
312.) 1963 Neutral safety switch
314.) Driver's side spark plug wire loom bracket
325.) 63-64 taillight housings passenger and driver's side
331.) 1963 right vent control cable non-AC
332.) 1963 left vent control cable non-AC
333.) 1963 rear heat control cable
334.) 1963 defroster control cable
340.) 4-blade fan with spacer and bolts
341.) Trunk lock catch assembly with attaching hardware
349.) Deluxe interior armrest end caps-for cars with manual windows
355.) 1963 heater assembly lens non-AC car
365.) 1963-1964 gauge lens with bezel
367.) 1963-1964 air cleaner
370.) Passenger side console kick panel extension
371.) Pair dashboard/dash pad end caps
375.) Front manual seat adjuster spring
378.) 1963-1964 speedometer lens and bezel
383.) 1963 tail light center medallion
385.) License plate light lens
393.) 1963 temperature control cable
394.) 1963 AC cool control cable
395.) 1963 with AC heat control cable
399.) Wiper motor attaching screws and control arm attaching clip
400.) Rear speaker plug
403.) Dash pad mounting hardware
405.) Rear console heat vent attaching clips and screws
408.) Rear quarter window passenger's RH beltline molding
409.) Pair vent window cranks
410.) 1963-1964 manual window crank
411.) Driver's LH vent window assembly frame leading edge chrome #5715083
414.) 1963 console shifter assembly
415.) 1965 console shifter assembly
416.) Console shifter tunnel & boot
421.) Lower door hinge spring
422.) Passenger side spark plug wire loom bracket
423.) 1963 neutral safety switch wiring harness with connectors
427.) 1963 trunk lid letter "C" with attaching clips
434.) Passenger side console carpet trim molding
435.) Driver's side console carpet trim molding
437.) SOLD-7 headlights, 4-high/low beam, 3 high beam (2 are T3)
439.) Hood hinge bolts
441.) New Steele Rubber antenna lead firewall grommet
442.) 1963 glovebox light & switch
444.) 1963 Heater/AC inner fender control box wiring
451.) Passenger LH vent window leading edge chrome 5715082
453.) Clear vent window glass
454.) Optikleen bottle bracket
455.) Lower windshield RH passenger side trim molding
456.) Lower windshield LH driver side trim molding
457.) Roofline weatherstrip molding
458.) Tinted rear quarter window glass
459.) Clear rear quarter window glass
460.) Driver's LH rear quarter window beltline trim molding
461.) Pair stainless headlight retainer rings
462.) Passenger manual seat track adjuster shield
463.) Driver's LH vent window beltline trim molding
464.) SOLD-Rear window lower driver's LH trim molding
468.) Driver's side lower dash trim
470.) Passenger inner fender antenna access panel with hardware
471.) A-pillar weatherstrip molding
473.) Assorted fender shims
474.) Delco Remy alternator 1100668 date code 4 A 16
477.) 1963 tail light lens
479.) Lower dash access panel attachment clips
483.) 1963 dash clock
484.) 1963-1964 black steering wheel
486.) Passenger door long beltline molding
487.) Driver's side dashboard gauge cluster surround-non AC car
488.) Passenger side dashboard glovebox surround-AC car
489.) Passenger side dashboard glovebox surround-non AC car
490.) 1963 center hood spear
491.) 1963-1964 gauge cluster faceplate with lenses
492.) SOLD-Driver's side rear window side and upper trim molding
493.) 1963-1964 rear license plate holder
494.) Sail panel wiring harness
495.) Driver's side spark plug loom bracket
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1 hour ago, Brtele said:
Bill,
Could you please elaborate on the temporary solution you have come up with? I'm sure I'll have to come up with something.
Thanks,
Hi Brandon,
I have used two different methods with success. One method is to use 2 part epoxy to glue the halves of the button together. When doing this make sure you put a thin piece of cardboard like material underneath the bottom of the button half still on the seat to prevent epoxy from getting on that nice new upholstery. I have found that a piece of a cereal box with a slit cut in it works well. It is thin but, has a little rigidity to be able slide it underneath the button.
The other method that I have used is to take a thin double sided adhesive such as car molding tape and put a small piece on each half and push them together. When you do this it is best to get something rigid underneath the half of the button that it still in the seat to prevent it from sinking into the seat when you push the 2 halves together. This allows you to get a good bit of pressure to push the 2 halves together. I use one of those cheap plastic auto trim and molding tools to do this.
Another thing I do is to when I use the tape method is to put epoxy in the middle of the button with the vinyl on it. There is nothing holding the vinyl on the top half of the button except the pressure of being pushed together with the other half of the button. The epoxy or your glue of choice will keep the edges of the vinyl in place underneath the inside of that top half of the button.
Bill
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1 hour ago, RivNut said:
Maybe it might be an idea to start from the other end and see who has the earliest build date that does NOT have the screws for the wedge. We can perhaps meet in the middle.
This is exactly what we are doing. We already have that earliest build date of the 4th week in May without screws from my car. The original request was for people with build dates between the 5th week in January and the 4th week in May to check to see if they have screws or not and report back. With Chuck's latest report we now are looking at build dates between the 4th week in May and the 1st week in April. We have narrowed the gap by over 2 months.
Bill
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1 hour ago, Chasander said:
My car 04A has the wedge.
Thanks Chuck!
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1 hour ago, Brtele said:
While I'm waiting on Harmon to rebuild my brake booster, I might as well post the completion of the seat recover. The Clarks seats look great. The upholsterer I brought them to had a little bit of an issue with the passenger side front - a seam ripped while pulling over the frame/cushion, but they sewed it back and you can't tell.
Overall they look great.
The front seat cushions (purchased through Clarks) are not wide enough at the corners. The upholsterer had to add a decent amount of padding to get the wrinkles out.
Also, the buttons supplied kept separating and popping off of the metal piece. Clarks was apologetic and sent another batch of buttons - when they arrived there were two already separated, so I know it wasn't the installer's fault. Clarks is going to look into it, but my upholsterer superglued them back together and ran a thin bead of superglue around the seam of the ones that hadn't failed as a possible precaution.
Again, overall the product looks very good and makes the car look so much better.
Now I just need these brakes back together so I can drive this thing.
Brandon,
Looking good. The tops of the buttons popping off of is a common occurrence with the button's from Clark's. I had my front seats recovered this last winter with Clark's upholstery. Unfortunately, I had 3 pop off after I had the seats back in. They were very good and sent me a whole new set. Getting new ones does not solve the problem however, it just gives you more buttons with the same problem. Your upholsterer came up with a good preventive solution. I talked to my upholsterer about this and he said the problem is that they use vinyl which it too thick and thus the 2 halves don't fit together as tightly as they should. He said he could make me new buttons with thinner vinyl. I have come up with a temporary solution for my 3 buttons which is holding for now. I do not want to have to take those seats out again. As you know they are a pain. Especially for me as I get older.
Bill
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4 hours ago, Dundee said:
Bill
I did a bit more trolling through photos from my last visit to the car and this one I can see the screw heads sitting proud of the body if I zoom on it. Not a great shot but enough for me to confirm they were there and in the spot you showed! Ignore the black rubber marks and as I said they are painted body colour as previous owner did the body work though he definitely would not have made any mechanical mods there.
Ron,
Thanks for following up on this. I threw this out on the ROA Facebooks groups as well and have had a response from a Riviera owner that had a 5th week of March build with the screws in the door jamb. Your car coupled with his really narrows down the change window.
Bill
Post some pics of your Rivieras!!!!!!!!!!
in Buick Riviera
Posted
1964 and 1965 is just a simple bolt in as the rear armrest was an option for those years. It was not an option for 1963, so modification of the seat bottom was necessary to make it fit.
Bill