Riviera63
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Posts posted by Riviera63
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New price $25.00 plus S & H.
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3 hours ago, 1965rivgs said:
Thanks Bill,
I`m wondering at the moment if yours is the repro Ed referred to? I find it strange Buick would use the tri-colored trishield in the hood button when the standard wheel covers, wire wheel covers and cast aluminum wheel spinners are silver tri-shield with the black background? That detail seems to have been a deliberate attempt to create some separation between the Riv and the rest of the Buick lineup. Were the originals red, white and blue or silver/black? I have been looking at old period photos but cant seem to find a photo which indicates this definitively. Maybe this was one of the running changes in `63?? If someone had an NOS example in the original packaging with part # that would be great. Or pics of an extremely low mileage car? Or maybe I`ll simply keep my eyes open at the next Buick show! Thanks again for the pics of your car,
Tom
There are no signs to me that this is a repro. The patina and aging on it are consistent with other original parts that I have removed from my car. I have only seen the R/W/B ones on any 63 I have looked at. Even though they may have used black and silver in other areas to separate it from the other models it is still a Buick. If the originals were black and silver why would CARS, Inc. make the repros R/W/B? CARS, Inc. seems to be pretty good at keeping things as original in their repros.
As a side note, does anyone know if the repros have the metal plate and threaded stud as the original? If I remember correctly there was some talk on previous threads about having to glue the repro button. If someone has replaced theirs with a repro button I would like to know how they had to attach it. Mine is a little rough and am thinking of replacing. Thanks.
Bill
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On 10/17/2018 at 3:08 PM, 1965rivgs said:
Hi All,
Does anyone have a pic of an ORIGINAL `63 Riv hood button/insert? I know there were/are repros available but I`m interested in knowing what the original appearance and fastening method used was. Thanks in advance,
Tom Mooney
Tom,
I was changing the oil in the Riv today and remembered you had this question. Removed mine and you can see in the pictures what it looks like and how it is fastened. It is accessible through the opening where the hood latches.The cut nut was an 11/32".
Bill
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46 minutes ago, petelempert said:
While you are trying out potions to stop the clatter, consider Rislone. It's an old school zinc additive. Back when I first got my 63, it had been sitting for years and made lot of tappet noise once I got it running. The Rislone actually did seem to quiet my old clapped out motor. Not even sure why. Maybe it was just the motor getting loose again and there Rislone had nothing to do with it. Regardless, I heard about it years ago from an old mechanic named Bill who taught me some good and bad habits. I think a lot of these additives are worth a try only because you are probably living on borrowed time on your motor anyway. I would have tried pouring bourbon in the motor if I thought it might help. I poured bourbon in myself instead and that definitely helped. On a brighter note, you might actually have an exhaust leak at the manifold. Lots of times, a small leak will trick you into thinking its a bad lifter. Same habit of ticking or being noisy at start up then quieting down after a few minutes. With a cracked/leaking manifold, you'll have similar noise until the metal expands and essentially closes the leak enough to conceal the sound. PRL
Pete has a good point about the manifold leak possibly being the culprit. I had this happen to me a couple of years ago. I thought I had a bad lifter. It turned out that I had an exhaust leak around the shaft in the heat riser. Since I don't drive in the winter they positioned the flap in the open position and welded those gaps around the shaft closed. Problem solved, ticking noise gone. This year I had a similar noise start and that quickly got worse. This time a cracked manifold.
Bill
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5 minutes ago, Bdad said:
Yes
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For sale is a very nice left tail light and fender extension for the 1976-1977 Oldsmobile Cutlass. This piece is in excellent condition. It has been cleaned up and is ready to go. It is complete with the back gasket, bottom chrome and intact mounting studs with cut nuts. $25.00 plus S & H. PM me if interested or e-mail me at: billmawbey@hotmail.com Thanks.Bill
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For sale is a pair of original interior door panel script emblems for the 1973-1977 Oldsmobile Cutlass. These emblems are in like new condition. They measure 4" long. Please make sure these are correct for your application. $15.00 shipped. Please PM me if interested or e-mail me at: billmawbey@hotmail.com Thanks.Bill
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On 9/30/2018 at 7:49 PM, RivNut said:
Look on their websites for the "specs" on the different oils produced by various companies. The Data sheet for Mobil products is very detailed. Most companies produce at least one variation that has a viscosity and the amounts of Zinc and Phosphate that are needed for flat tappet (good old push rod and hydraulic or mechanical lifter) engines. The minimum you should look for is an oil rated at a minimum of 1,000 PPM - parts per million. You can find these amounts in oils that are not just racing oils. Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 15W-50 states specifically that it is designed for flat tappet engines; it's like 1200 / 1100 (or close to that.) The nice thing about some of the oils is that you can buy a five gallon jug at WallyWorld for <$25. NAPA filters are made by Wix, a good choice whether you buy the NAPA name or WIX. If you look through the archives, you'll find other discussions on the subject. Just don't fall for the guy who says " he uses XYZ and has never had a problem." You need to be able to scientifically evaluate the oil and the wear on the parts. The research is on the web, dig it out and read about it. Believe what you've read about some of the Fram filters. This is one area where you not want to be concerned about saving a buck. But you don't have to buy Gibbs Racing oils either.
I was able to find the specs for the Mobil 1 synthetic oils. They have 6 (out of 31 listed) oils that are 1000 or above for phosphorous and zinc. The rest are below 1000 for both numbers. They are: (phosphorous/zinc)
Mobil 1 X2 5W-50 1000/1100
Mobil 1 15W-50 1200/1300
Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40 1100/1300
Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 1100/1200
Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50 1600/1750
Mobil 1 0W-40 1000/1100
I just picked up a 5 quart jug of 0W-40 for $25.47 at Walmart today.
Bill
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For sale is a very nice original 1976-1977 Oldsmobile Cutlass hood ornament. The ornament is complete and in very good condition. There is some minor pitting and the piece shows the normal wear of a piece of this age. It shows well and any flaws are not apparent unless under very close scrutiny. The mounting studs are whole, unbroken and includes the cut nuts. I would rate this as a very good driver quality. Great for a spare or to use until you find that perfect piece. $30.00 shipped. Please PM me if interested or e-mail me at: billmawbey@hotmail.com Thanks.Bill
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For sale are a pair of original fender script emblems for the 1973-1977 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme. The emblems are in very good used condition. There is some minor pitting but, any flaws are not noticeable unless under very close scrutiny. The chrome still holds a good shine. The mounting studs are whole and intact. The cut nuts are included. I would rate these as excellent driver quality. Great to use for a back-up set or to use until you get that perfect set. $30.00 shipped. If interested please PM me or e-mail me at billmawbey@hotmail.com Thanks.
Bill
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For sale is an original driver's side 1976-1977 Oldsmobile Cutlass plastic front bumper to fender filler. This piece is in excellent condition with no cracks or tears and comes with the mounting plugs. $15.00 plus S & H. Please PM if interested or email me at: billmawbey@hotmail.com.
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For sale is a an original trunk lock bezel/emblem for the 1976 or 1977 Oldsmobile Cutlass. The bezel is in very good shape with nice chrome and black paint accent stripe. The Lucite panel shows some signs of wear but, still shows nicely. I would rate this as a very excellent driver quality or better. Would need new adhesive on the back. $25.00 shipped. Please PM me if interested or contact me at: billmawbey@hotmail.com
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For sale is a front header/nose panel for the 1976-1977 Oldsmobile Cutlass. The panel appears to be in good condition. Some cracking on driver's side edge, appears fixable. If interested please PM me or contact me at: billmawbey@hotmail.com Buyer to pick up locally. If buyer desires to arrange shipping, I will assist. Thanks.
Bill
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For sale is a pair of front fenders for the 1976-1977 Oldsmobile Cutlass 2-door. The fenders are in good condition and appear to be straight and rust free. $75.00 each or take both for $125.00. If interested please PM me or contact me at: billmawbey@hotmail.com Buyer to pick up locally. If buyer desires to arrange shipping, I will assist. Thanks.
Bill
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For sale is a very nice, clean original chrome left, driver's side remote rear view mirror with mounting gasket. This mirror is in excellent condition with nice chrome and clear glass. The remote mechanism works smoothly. This mirror fits and is correct for a number of 70's General Motors cars including the 1976-1977 Oldsmobile Cutlass and 1973, 1974, 1975 Oldsmobile with option d33. This mirror was removed from a 1976 Oldsmobile Cutlass. I believe the above fitments to be accurate. Please make sure this is correct for your application. $35.00 plus shipping and handling. Please PM me if interested or e-mail me at: billmawbey@hotmail.com
Thanks
Bill
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17 hours ago, wildcat1562 said:
some friends that do reproduction items, have a gas tank ready to try in a car
so what they are looking at is a car to do it to
if anyone would like a new tank under there 63 to 65 riv
and is in wisconsin, they are in waupun
if your car is able to get there
they will do it and make it happen
the main thing they said is a car to make sure everything is right
and the fit is right
you can call me at
920-893-0629
Greg
I live in Stevens Point, WI which is 1 1/2 to 2 hours away from Waupun, WI. I have talked to Greg about this. I do not need a gas tank but, might be willing to let them use my car to iron out any fitment issues if no one else steps forward. From conversations on the forum I know how important getting a replacement gas tank on the market is for other 63-65 Riviera owners. If there is someone out there that could benefit more from this please do not hesitate to contact Greg or if a forum member knows someone that doesn't frequent the forum in Wisconsin that could benefit from please let them know.
Bill
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47 minutes ago, 65VerdeGS said:
I can't seem to access the ROA website lately. Does anyone know what's going on?
I tried logging on from home and from work, at different times of day.
Each time I try, this is the warning message I get:
Any ideas on what is going on, or what I can do?
Thanks,
I have had the same problem for the last 2 days with the same message. I am using the same link I have used for years, which is the .org address. I just tried them both from the previous post the .org gave the same message. The .com address did get me through.
Bill
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1 hour ago, wildcat1562 said:
some friends that do reproduction items, have a gas tank ready to try in a car
so what they are looking at is a car to do it to
if anyone would like a new tank under there 63 to 65 riv
and is in wisconsin, they are in waupun
if your car is able to get there
they will do it and make it happen
the main thing they said is a car to make sure everything is right
and the fit is right
you can call me at
920-893-0629
Greg
PM sent
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28 minutes ago, 65VerdeGS said:
Anyone have direct experience with using fine steel wool ('0000') to clean automotive glass?
I recently acquired a set of Soft-Ray tinted window glass (rear, sides and vent, total 7 pieces) that came out of a '65 Riv.
The glass had been sitting in a shed for a long time and is quite dirty. I got the set for a good price so I jumped at it, hoping to swap out the standard glass for tinted stuff. Best I could tell the glass is in pretty good shape as I could not see any big scratches or other defects to deter me from buying the set. So I made the guy an offer and he took it. Now I've got 7 pieces of tinted glass in my trunk, waiting to be cleaned.
So, what's the best way to clean the old glass? I'm wary of using something too abrasive, of course. The easy stuff to clean is dirt. But the glass also has old glue around the edges, assorted crud, and a filmy sheen on it as well. I cleaned one of the vent window pieces and it came up almost perfect. But this piece wasn't so dirty, and was easy to clean in my kitchen sink.
I hear some recommending the use of super fine steel wool to get glass really clean. Is that correct? Are "ScotchBrite" pads too abrasive?
Your tips on how to get old glass as clean as possible are much appreciated.
Get as much of the crud off as you can with the usual methods, soap and water, glass cleaner, etc. Once you get them reasonably clean use a clay bar. I do this at least once a year. It is amazing how much stuff you can get off of glass you think is clean. This will get the glass very clean and smooth. Really helps the glass shed water.
Bill
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9 hours ago, Chewbacca said:
Any cure?
8 hours ago, Seafoam65 said:Supposedly there is a way to secure the line where it can't ratlle.......there was a long discussion on this in a previous blog that you should
be able to find.
Here is the link:
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7 minutes ago, jframe said:
I bought my door, window run, and trunk rubber from CARS a couple years back, and had no issues. My door pieces had the correct metal tabs held on with a plastic pushpin. CARS may have changed suppliers.
I had CARS weatherstrip originally. They were fine but, manufactured backwards. They were unable to supply me with correct replacements. After several weeks of waiting I had to cancel and move on. I finally just bit the bullet and ordered a set from Steele Rubber. Hopefully, they will be here in a couple of days and I can get this project finished.
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3 hours ago, Zimm63 said:
Don't recall if they had metal tabs or not. Need to look this evening when I get home.
No need. They added some pictures since the last time I looked on their website. They show the metal tabs. Thanks.
Bill
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9 minutes ago, Zimm63 said:
I got mine from Steele and they fit fine. Don't recall any issues when I put them on a few years back.
Thanks for that. Did they have the metal tabs? I never have had any problems with any Steele Products I have ordered. They are priced so much higher than the others which scared me away at first but, it looks as if I should have just gone with them in the beginning and skipped all of the headaches.
I called Clark's Corvair about their weatherstrip. The person I talked to had no clue as to who made theirs and whether they had the metal clips. Has anyone tried their weatherstrip?
Bill
FOR SALE 1973-77 OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS INTERIOR DOOR PANEL SCRIPT EMBLEM
in Oldsmobile - Buy/Sell
Posted
New price $10.00 shipped.