theKiwi

The serial number will give the exact model and determine if it's a limousine or sedan or ... Roger

And here's their entry in the 1925 City Directory for Riverside, Riverside County, California, USA Roger

They were a Franklin and Jordan dealer in Riverside California in 1926. Here's their advertisement in the 1926 City Directory for the area Give them a call at phone 121 and see if they're still around. Cheers Roger

It says Brainard and Cundiff Roger

I spoke to the owner of this car this afternoon to find out a bit about it. He told me about it overheating in a parade a few years ago. Later this evening I hope, he's sending me the car's serial number so I can find out just exactly what it is, and some photos of the new interior it has. The mechanical items - engine, transmission and rear end - have not been touched as part of the restoration it's had the last few years - the money has gone on paint, chrome, upholstery, wiring (but not completed) and odds and ends. Roger

I've sent you a message with my contact details in it - I'm interested in finding out more about this car Roger

HI Tom Sorry don't have answers on the fabric questions, but just wanted to point out that you could also join the Midwest Region of the H H Franklin Club, and if you're on Facebook there are several pages on Facebook with lots of Franklin expertise hanging out on it. Next year's Midwest Region Spring Meet is being held in southwest Michigan in June 18-20, and includes the 10th Annual All Air-Cooled Gathering held at the Gilmore Car Museum on Saturday 20 June. The H H Franklin Club has its museum - the Franklin Automobile Collection at Hickory Corners. Roger

@PFitz - thanks for that. I hadn't considered allowing the chain to rub across the bottom of the floorboard support bar, and had been looking to connect it somewhere so it was a straight line not rubbing on anything. I'll make that change sometime. I had got it set with a wire link as you show so that it comes on at the first movement of the pedal. Cheers Roger

@PFitz - where is the "official" place that the chain from the brake light switch should connect to the pedal - it doesn't seem that there's anywhere like a small hole to hook in to. I've got mine working, but just was never sure where to connect the front end of the chain to. Roger

If you live near the midwest you should bring your Corvair and Subaru to the Air Cooled Meet at the Gilmore Car Museum next year (every year) on the Saturday before Father's Day. This show is put on by the H H Franklin Club who have their museum - the Franklin Automobile Collection at Hickory Corners - at the Gilmore Car Museum. :-) Roger

Yes it's a 1921 Holmes. I spoke with the "owner", but I think I actually spoke to the owner's grandson - he mentioned his grandfather has 2 Holmes cars. For those with Facebook you can see a few more pictures of it on my Facebook page here. The Holmes Company was founded in 1921 by the former Chief Engineer for the H H Franklin Company. https://www.facebook.com/RogerMoffat/posts/10216987400450055 Roger

Hi Everyone I'm in the market to buy another Franklin - something that I can drive to and from more distant events than are comfortable with my Series 11A. Does anyone know of any Series 15 or Series 16 available for sale. Needs to be in at least reasonable condition - I don't mind tinkering, but am not so much into bodywork and upholstery. Thanks Roger

Todd - this sounds like exactly the scenario I found myself in a few months ago too on my 1926 Series 11A Sedan. Happy to find that the bearing clearances seemed good, and the condition of the journals was OK, and the caps, but when I rotated the crank, a top main shell turned out with it - but it was only half of the shell - broken across the oiling groove cut in it. I checked another one, and it came out in 3 pieces, with some missing too. I have a spare engine that I'm going to pull apart and see what's in it, but it's looking like I'll have to have new main bearing shells poured and line bored to fix this. Roger

Just to update this thread - the car has been delisted on Craig's List https://fortmyers.craigslist.org/col/cto/d/naples-antique-1931-franklin/6956219519.html Roger

https://www.epicbleedsolutions.com/resources/faq/difference-between-dot4-and-dot51-brake-fluid/

Whatever you do with Dot 3 v Dot 5 - DO NOT mix the two - that creates a ghastly gelatinous mess. Roger

I didn’t buy it last week - guess I didn’t offer them enough for it. Roger

Which car did you buy?

Do you know what model the rear lock fits? I'm looking for one for my 1926 Series 11A. I have an Oakes lock already, just missing the lock housing. The clamp is #32590 Roger

Mine came to zip code 49316 on 28 May Roger

If it's not the screw @PFitz mentions, then this guy will have it. He also sells viton tipped needles which don't leak, new seats, and other parts http://www.strombergof.com Roger

Is it complete with the brake and clutch pedals, cross shaft and clutch release fork on it?

Thanks for the links to Jerry Greer's Engineering. I've saved them just in case I ever need any more than the 2 spares I currently have. Roger

If you have a spare bracket, I'd be interested in at least the wing nut off it, or the whole bracket - I have two brackets, but am missing one of the wing nuts that lock the sliding parts together to adjust the visor angle. This part here Roger

Kirk Arnold - you can find him on the Franklin Automobilie Enthusiasts Facebook page - has recently fitted up some cables with turnbuckles onto a badly sagged car. I'm partway through a process to put some "upside down" leaf springs under the frame of my 1926 Series 11A car. I know of one other car that has had this done and it worked out very well, so I have got the dimensions of the springs he had made, and am having a spring shop here in Grand Rapids, Michigan make me a pair of springs - the basic idea is to put a leaf spring under the chassis rail from just behind the front spring, back to about the end of the gearbox - when both ends are pushed up and fastened to the frame rails (sill plates) the centre of the spring will be pushing up on the frame rail hopefully enough to get them back into shape. As noted above, the most obvious problem of the sagging frame is that there is a gap at the bottom of the hood corners, but less obvious is the line of the cowl along the hood is "broken" - the sag shows up there, as well as on my car at least we are very very close to having the rear end of the engine air cover rubbing on the cowl. If the spring process works I'll publish pictures and text of what I did so others might do the same also if interested - to me this makes more engineering sense than a cable under the car, pulled unbelievably tight, fastened to the frame rails by bolts drilled through wood that are pulling along the grain - there is so little mechanical advantage in the cable system that the cables must by unbelievably tight to have any effect I think. The springs idea seems simpler, and has been proven to work on one car so far - mine will be #2 Roger