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Frank DuVal

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  1. Lisle 60850 triple square bit set picture. ๐Ÿฆƒ ๐Ÿ– ๐Ÿ  ๐Ÿฒ ๐ŸŽ„ ๐ŸŽ„ ๐Ÿ•Ž ๐Ÿ•Ž โ„๏ธ
  2. I do not know, but you might find an answer here: https://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/forum/your-studebaker-forum/tech-talk I know, much more post war information on there, but some of the people do own earlier Studebakers.๐Ÿ˜‰ Ask the question there, can't hurt, as they say. ๐Ÿ‘ ๐Ÿฆƒ ๐Ÿฆƒ ๐Ÿ– ๐Ÿ ๐Ÿฅ”๐ŸŽ„ ๐Ÿ•Ž โ„๏ธ
  3. Sure, and a full overhaul for that engine would just be one more step in those simple terms! 4. Overhaul engine. I think some very important small steps are missing!๐Ÿ˜ฎ ๐Ÿฆƒ ๐Ÿฆƒ ๐Ÿ– ๐Ÿ ๐Ÿฅ”๐ŸŽ„ ๐Ÿ•Ž โ„๏ธ
  4. I told him exactly where it (the black wire) went. Even gave the OP a link to instructions.โ— Then the wheels feel off the apple cart, and I helped! ๐Ÿ˜ฎ ๐Ÿฆƒ ๐Ÿฆƒ ๐Ÿ– ๐Ÿ ๐Ÿฅ”๐ŸŽ„ ๐Ÿ•Ž โ„๏ธ
  5. Also be sure to have a good book to read while you wait... I'd rather replace a small part and continue on my way that wait hours to tow to where? Hershey, to get impossible to find locally parts? Then wait for October? Locally being where your car broke. I did say carry spares if you are on a trip, if a short tow home gets to your parts stash then that does work. 300 miles away, not so much.๐Ÿ˜‰ ๐Ÿฆƒ ๐Ÿฆƒ ๐Ÿ– ๐Ÿ ๐Ÿฅ”๐ŸŽ„ ๐Ÿ•Ž โ„๏ธ
  6. There is a topic on here about rebuilding a Buick straight eight. Maybe in the Buick Post War section.
  7. Rusty, that's how I used to time VWs of the 50s and 60s (OK, I only ever worked on one 1957 Beetle). I know at some point in years this was not the preferred method. Remember the Hippie Guide for VWs, I mean the How To Keep Your VW Alive by John Muir the engineer. (Muir Woods , i.e. John Muir the naturalist, is a distant relative). This guide was my first for seeing the test lamp method, then I saw Chilton's, etc. also had it. No timing light needed. ๐Ÿฆƒ ๐Ÿฆƒ ๐Ÿ– ๐Ÿ ๐Ÿฅ”๐ŸŽ„ ๐Ÿ•Ž โ„๏ธ
  8. That's the only reason I say to carry a spare on a trip, as not every store carries a Pertronix module to swap in for a test. Of course, neither do they carry points, rotor, condenser, cap for cars of this age either. I also tell people to carry these spares on a trip. Either will break at the most inopportune time! โ— ๐Ÿฆƒ ๐Ÿฆƒ ๐Ÿ– ๐Ÿ ๐Ÿฅ”๐ŸŽ„ ๐Ÿ•Ž โ„๏ธ
  9. Then how did you install the Pertronix module?๐Ÿ˜ Skyhook? โ“ Ha โ— ๐Ÿฆƒ ๐Ÿฆƒ ๐Ÿ– ๐Ÿ ๐Ÿฅ”๐ŸŽ„ ๐Ÿ•Ž โ„๏ธ
  10. Only when the contact inside the regulator closes upon seeing the generator having output current. ๐Ÿ˜‰ ๐Ÿฆƒ ๐Ÿฆƒ๐Ÿท ๐Ÿ  ๐Ÿฅ”๐ŸŽ„๐Ÿ•Ž โ„๏ธ
  11. I think you mean 1930s....๐Ÿ˜ Lots of AM/FM home radios were sold from the late 40s onward. Before WWII there was the first FM broadcast band of 42 to 50 MHz. The current 88 to 108 MHz band came onto being in 1946. Lots of Zenith table top Bakelite radios still out there with both FM bands, made between 1946 and 1949. ๐Ÿ˜‰ It is true there was a lull in new FM licenses until stations figured out how to make money on FM broadcasting. Simulcasting ( just feeding both the AM and FM transmitters the same audio) did not increase market share by much. Classical did take off as a reason to use FM because of superior frequency response. In the 70s there were just a handful of AM stations doing full time classical, like WQXR in NYC. In Richmond we had at least 5 FM stations in the 50s. WRVA, WRNL, WTVR, WLEE and WRFK. Of course, what would you expect from the city of the south's first television station.๐Ÿ˜
  12. ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘ ๐Ÿฆƒ ๐Ÿฆƒ ๐Ÿ– ๐Ÿ ๐Ÿฅ”๐ŸŽ„ ๐Ÿ•Ž โ„๏ธ
  13. Well, more low cost options are to buy one at a thrift store or see if a neighbor has an old one to give away. I've heard they are also good for powder coating small parts. ๐Ÿฆƒ ๐Ÿฆƒ ๐Ÿ– ๐Ÿ ๐Ÿฅ”๐ŸŽ„ ๐Ÿ•Ž โ„๏ธ
  14. You have power to both terminals with the key on, yet the brake lights do not light, is that a correct statement? I do not have a 69 Ghia wiring diagram. Some European cars have separate brake lights, not part of the turn signal system, not sure what this Ghia has. ๐Ÿฆƒ ๐Ÿฆƒ ๐Ÿ– ๐Ÿ ๐Ÿฅ”๐ŸŽ„ ๐Ÿ•Ž โ„๏ธ
  15. Georgia? Heck it wasn't finished in southern Virginia either! Had to use US 301 for a section when I was driving that area in 76 to 77. Now, go back to my grandparents day, US 1 was not thought of yet! To get from Richmond to Baltimore meant traveling west to avoid the rivers (Potomac, Rappahannock, etc). Not the 3 or so hour trip of today (OK, longer if traveling during Washington rush hour!), more like all day plus. โ—
  16. I originally meant carburetor cleaner, but not if you are going to toast it. ๐Ÿ˜‰ If you have access to an ultrasonic cleaner you could start with that, use Simple Green or any detergent. Flush with a lot of water afterward and dry with compressed air. Using detergent shouldn't be an issue later using the toaster oven. Unless Jon states otherwise, then I would go with his recommendation. ๐Ÿ˜ƒ ๐Ÿฆƒ ๐Ÿฆƒ ๐Ÿ– ๐Ÿ ๐Ÿฅ”๐ŸŽ„ ๐Ÿ•Ž โ„๏ธ
  17. Soak it more. Should be stuck from old fuel. Not stuck from deformed metal. If deformed metal, then drill may be only option. Hopefully Carb King will tell us his experience with these, if metal deformation is ever an issue. ๐Ÿฆƒ ๐Ÿฆƒ ๐Ÿ– ๐Ÿ ๐Ÿฅ”๐ŸŽ„ ๐Ÿ•Ž โ„๏ธ
  18. It should do whatever the barometric pressure is at your location that day! i.e. it should get close to perfect vacuum on a 0-30 inch scale. If it cannot, the internal check valves or diaphragm may be leaking. The force from the input lever pushes on the diaphragm to make suction. So it should go to maximum vacuum (barometric pressure).Pressure for output comes from the internal spring only. Now for this dead head test the outlet needs to be open, so the spring will return diaphragm to bottom of stroke. I agree with putting a rag into the fuel fill opening and then stick an air blower in there to pressurize the tank with a few psi. I've done that on stubborn cars where I replaced parts of the fuel system. Don't drop the blower into the tank!๐Ÿ˜ฎ Oh, rubber disc is even better. Glad it is running now!๐Ÿ‘ ๐Ÿฆƒ ๐Ÿฆƒ ๐Ÿ– ๐Ÿ ๐Ÿฅ”๐ŸŽ„ ๐Ÿ•Ž โ„๏ธ
  19. I think this is funny, I answer Pertronix questions on Corvair forums too many times.๐Ÿ˜‰.. According to these directions, the black wire goes to the ignition switch on positive ground Pertronix igniters. This should be the wire that used to go to the - terminal of the coil before you removed it to hook up the black/white Pertronix wire. https://static.speedwaymotors.com/pdf/4471282P6.pdf
  20. Oh that was a common scene at traffic lights back in the 60s and 70s. The column would wear allowing the shift fork ln the column to not pull the rod to get out of third gear, then the driver would go for first, and the fork would allow the rod to first to move, and the transmission would be in first and third with the vehicle not moving! Then the driver would set the parking brake and raise the hood and grab at the rods hoping to get them to move. Youse floor shifter people have no idea....๐Ÿ˜‰
  21. Yep, Axalta is what it is called now. The painter till calls it DuPont?
  22. The gear selector will not move when the engine is running, or also not moving with the engine off? Yes, go down the first page of topics to Buick Pre-War.
  23. Find an older locksmith? It looks like a small "drive screw" holding the cover on, but in person probably looks quite different. There may also be bits of spring remnants on that drive screw. There should also be a nib under that cover for the spring to work against (i.e. develop force between the nib and the cover). What vehicle is the lock from?
  24. If not driving for months, then leave it dry until ready to drive it for the season.
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