pfloro

In my understanding, directing the trans fluid to the external cooler first is the best option. In cold weather driving, the in-tank radiator cooler can then "re-heat" the trans fluid before it returns to the transmission. I don't think it's good to have cool fluid continuously circulating in the transmission. This is the way I plumbed the external cooler in my 1984 Toronado. Paul

Don't waste anymore time with this OP. He is a "OPW" (One Post Wonder). I've had it with these people. They are selfish takers. We're the words "Please" or "Thank You" used in his initial request? Yes..., I know that we all lead busy lives. However, when one asks for help on this great forum, it is their responsibility to 1) follow the topic, 2) do homework, 3) answer questions from others who are trying to help. It's no different than when selling something. As my mother would say: "They can just SCHOTTA! It's an Italian slang meaning bust. Paul

Oops..., My error. I wasn't aware that GM converted to R134a prior to around 1994... I hope the OP responds so that we can help... Paul

Yes..., Ben Bruce is correct. In your case, Given the car's age and mileage, it may be cheaper to replace the radiator. I suspect that by 1991, GM may have started using aluminum cores with plastic tanks. That configuration cools well and they are durable. Replacement radiators should be available without a problem... Paul

R134 is a less efficient refrigerant than R12. It operates at much greater pressures (especially the high side (condenser)) and greater temperatures. This increased heat is being directly transfered into your engine cooling system. Some cars tolerate R134a without a hiccup, others don't.

It sounds like you had a knowledgeable and experienced auto A/C mechanic. Did he explain to you that one of the problems which effects some R12 -> R134a conversions is less idle & low speed cooling? Here's why: The condenser in your Olds (even though it's new) was designed for R12. Simply put, R134a needs more condenser surface area to transfer the heat from the high pressure gasous refrigerant to the air. Unless that happens, some of the R134 doesn't condense back to a liquid and can't evaporate again (and absorb heat) in the cabin evaporator. Look at auto A/C condensers in post 1995 cars (which are R134a based). They have a much denser configuration (more surface area). The tubes are flat, there are many more rows, and there are many more fins between them. Many of these designs use "parallel flow". Instead of the high pressure gas "surpentining" back & forth, it enters a vertical cylinder at one side. The refrigerant then flows across the flat tubes in parallel to a vertical cylinder at the other side. This is all about getting maximum efficiency within the "small" condenser footprint. What can you do: 1) The most practical solution is going back to using R12. I don't know if NOS or recycled R12 is even available anymore. 2) This is probably not practical and prohibitively expensive. Have a custom condenser built to fit your footprint, etc. which is designed for R134a. IMO, Under no circumstances should you use any of the Drop in R12 replacement blends (with those kooky names). They are at best, a cheap short term "fix" and can cause havoc over time. *** I'm not an A/C expert but have studied refrigeration for decades. There is alot of information about your exact problem on the net. Much of it is written by engineers and auto A/C service people. I have spoken to my trusted HVAC man about this over the years and he agrees. Did you ever wonder why the outside condensing units for multi-ton home systems (not mini-splits) became so big? The newer residential HVAC systems use R410a which is somewhat similiar to R134a. The condenser requires a larger surface area than was needed for the old R22 refrigerant. For a residential system, going larger is not a big problem. However, for an automobile... Oh Boy... Paul

If this the cause, what is the fix...? Referencing the wiring diagram segment below: Relay connection #3 powers the horns when the relay is energized. Connection #1 is always hot. Connection #2 is the relay coil. It is grounded and the coil is energized when the contacts in the steering wheel pad close. To verify if the steering wheel pad contacts are the problem: Disconnect the relay connector. With an ohmmeter, measure the resistance from connector #2 to ground. If zero ohms, the steering wheel pad (or wiring) is the problem. If infinity, the problem is at the relay or "beyond"... Paul

As rocketraider noted, an alarm pin switch or the associated wiring may have "shorted to ground" causing the horn to sound. However, the factory or aftermarket alarm systems I've worked with over the years "cycle" the horn (short honk, pause, short honk, repeat...). If an alarm system exists, it's controller may have failed causing a continuous "energizing" of the horn... Also (alarm system or not), the little spring inside the horn relay may have broken causing the "high current" contacts to close. I would rule out an alarm system (if present) before doing anything else... Think like Sherlock Holmes...! Paul

I'm pretty sure that the last American carbureted engine was the Olds 307 V8 which was made through the 1990 model year. It was used from 1980 and GM didn't see the need (those bean counters...!) to convert it to FI (even throttle body) because it easily met emission standards. Paul

Thank you, Rusty... I gained more knowledge... Paul

I'm not an expert with these engines, but... Is the bottom end intact...? If so, why not remove only the cylinder head...? Paul

I believe Chrysler offered it as an option in 1972 and then made it standard across the board in 1973. I'm not sure, but I believe GM made HEI standard in 1975 when catalytic converters arrived. I don't know when Ford joined in... I carried a spare EI module for the 12 years I owned my 1973 Plymouth Duster. Throughout ~116,000 miles, I never needed it (and never had to fiddle with the timing either)... My sister-in-law had a 1965 Valiant and my brother would remove the distributor from the slant six to change & adjust the points...! Of course EI is not perfect but in my experience, the pros outweigh the cons... Paul

I use the phrase: "a two hankie." Watch it closely. Everyone's emotions and Gram's change is through the facial expressions. It's a beautiful work of art... ...and such a message... On the technical side, I really appreciated the authentic GM starter motor sound... Today's gear reduction starters just don't sound the same. ...and that 8 track tape player...! Paul

I would take a thin plastic scraper blade and from the front, wedge it under the large "disk". Then gently twist the blade to coax the switch away from the panel. Move the blade to another location and do the same. Follow "around the clock" to break the switch free. Then you should be able to rock the switch from behind to pop it out... Side to side movement and not twisting is what is required to compress the "spring steel petal fingers". Those fingers are what is holding it into place... 61polara was typing as I was typing...! Take your time... Paul PS: You could also use a thin metal paint scraper covered with blue tape (to protect the panel)...

There are no automobiles in this 9 nine minute video but I hope that you find the autumn imagery a relaxing break from our hobby... This 16mm film was my college senior honors project made in the autumn of 1976. I just completed an extensive restoration... Enjoy...! Paul Be Here Now

Please see my post above. I corrected these images and "dolled them up" earlier this afternoon... Paul

These images and descriptions are so cool...! Thank you 38 Buick 80C... The image of the cranky sweating family and then the happy "AC" family is the best...! I wonder if GM got permission from Paramount to use the words "Vista-Vision" when describing the new quad headlight setup. VistaVision was a "large format negative" process developed by Paramount in the early 1950s... FYI: The first picture released in VistaVision was White Christmas (Bing Crosby, Danny Kaye, Rosemary Clooney, Vera-Ellen - 1954). Strategic Air Command (Jimmy Stewart, June Allyson) was in production first but wasn't released until 1955... Paul

I don't know the specifics of these mechanisms but do know that they are electrically & mechanically "sequential". Upon starting the opening operation, the 1st "task" must mechanically complete before the next task is triggered electrically. As rocketraider mentioned, properly functioning & adjusted limit switches electrically (via relays) start the next task. There are several of these tasks which occur before the top is down and stowed. The closing operation reverses the entire set of tasks...! I can see why both the engineers and service techs went mad... Paul

Thank you arcticbuicks... The car has been gone (but not forgotten) for over 10 years. However, I did check the PCV valve for proper operation when I first noticed the large amount of blowby. Paul

I always checked the oil level just before a change (engine warm) and for a few days after the change. My old eyes may have been fooling me...! The cat wasn't original and it probably had only 50,000 miles on it... The original one rusted out. That was a long time ago...! No... but I must have become aware of the blowby somewhere around 150,000 miles. This engine had a breather filter set into a grommet in the center of the left side rocker cover. A formed metal pipe then connected to a fitting on the air cleaner housing. I changed the filter every year and it was never saturated with oil. Back in the day, I would raise the hood and check everything over fairly frequently. It's funny: My brother and I never got along too well but he did tell me more than once that "you know how to take care of a car"... God rest his soul... ******** I appreciate everyone's feedback. The Toronado was a good car but toward the end, I got tired of driving a living room sofa...! A good friend called the car "The Queen Mary" or "The Ship"... Paul

Although I haven't owned my '84 Toronado (307 V8 - VIN "Y") for a decade, I have been puzzled about this for a long time. Unfortunately, I never took compression readings or performed a leak down test. *** At ~150,000 miles, when tuning (air cleaner housing off) and revving to perhaps 2000 RPM, I noticed a tremendous amount of blowby coming out of the breather pipe which connects to the left side of the air cleaner housing. Absolutely no oil was being consumed and there was no oil film in the air cleaner housing. I always changed it every 4 months (~2000 miles / non-synthetic 10W-40). I'm sure that compression was a bit low but all the plugs looked fine, starting was easy, and the idle was rock steady. I always passed emissions but the HCs were getting closer to the limit as the mileage rolled up... Before I sold the car (200,000 miles), the HCs were: Loaded reading - 117ppm (limit: 220) / Idle reading: 132 (limit: 220). CO readings were rising but within limits. Loaded reading: .63% (limit: 1.2) / Idle reading: .11 (limit: 1.20). Can an engine have lots of blowby but not use any oil...? If the compression rings and bores are worn causing lots of blowby, can the oil control rings still hold back oil usage...? I'm always want to learn so I'm curious about this...! Thanks for your thoughts... Paul

Since we can't turn the clock back to earlier style headlights or get new eyes, I have a technique which works well for me. When on coming cars approach with those bright LED headlighs, I cover my left eye and focus on the white line at the road's edge. I still have a safe view of what's ahead of me. Knowing that this technique is a compromise, I slow down a bit and preserve my limited night vision. From the 1972 Alka Seltzer commercial: "Try It, You'll LIke It..." Paul

Correct...! My complaint with the A.I.R. system (especially on a computer controlled engine) is the complex plumbing. The air distribution manifolds, hoses, switching & check valves, etc. really make an untidy mess... Paul

I think GM called that gadget "Thermac"... Paul

I think the p.o. is referring to the belt driven A.I.R. (Air injection Reaction) pump... Paul