Dodgenz

Just a few more.. 22mm is the width of the bottom edge flat (to the low point). 13mm across the small ribs.

Hi Jim. A few more now after giving the system a break. 54mm is the from the edge of the flatter rib at the bottom to the start of the small ones. . Despite the angle of my 'expensive' Vernier the 3mm is pretty much right - had to lean over for the photo. The small ribs are 1mm high. (Apologies for quoting measurements in new money! ) The large ribs are higher than the flat around the edge of the mat, and the small ribs are level with the flat.

Hi Jim, here are a few shots of mine. I'll get some measurements after breakfast(!) I'll have to do two posts to keep the quality up. Andrew Just found out it won't let me post more...

I'm tempted by their rubber, but might be expensive to get sent, and as not exact I may as well get something not exact here. There is some boat mat which is similar in Auckland. Hope your boards come out ok, mine weren't ideal either, but will fit and once covered be ok for now.

That helps a lot John. It looks as if mine might be original then. There seems to be a slight gap between the mudguard/wing and the board anyway (same as mine) so the rib continuing around the corner across the front and back wouldn't matter. It may have had fenderwelt or similar in it. Did you get your kit from Old Era ? The separate pieces sound familiar. (I can't see the point of a fourth piece under the car which isn't seen. Some other cars have four edges trimmed but not the DA as far as I have seen). Your second and last photo also seem to show a piece of fenderwelt sandwiched between the mat and the car body which would make sense, so i'll go with that too. Thanks for those pictures - really useful.

Maybe its got some international block on it or my pc is just being stupid (or me!). This is what I get from that last link. Thanks for trying it keiser.

As a quick aside - I haven't got as far as light yet, but can't see an obvious dip switch (eg a floor mounted switch)… my electrics have been adapted a bit by the looks of it, so is it missing or is it on steering wheel or elsewhere?

The L&L website doesn't seem to work. It says the domain name may be for sale - are they still in business? if I click on their name it just takes me to a bunch of ads - including my local timber supplies! It would be good to know if mine is original...

Hi all, I have had some running boards made up, but am not sure of the trim/edging required to make it correct. The old one has a folded piece around the corner (as per pictures) which seems fairly original, but I've been told there are different pieces that go on the ends, so therefore there would be a mitred join where the ribbed type meets the (supposed) flat piece used on the ends. I know the mat has been changed, but not sure about the trim. Also I assume there is only the outside piece and the ends, not an inside piece as this would be under the car? Does anyone have any photos/info? Thanks

Hi John, Mine are also shot, so am looking to replace them at some point. I think Romars sell them, but at a cost...then there is the price of shipping from the states, which always seems to be huge compared to shipping the other way. One of mine is in existence just about and could look at getting some measurements if you want. I have a few pictures I've collected which may help. I guess you need a good folder to get the ribs done. I'm not sure who posted these originally - maybe someone else has info?? Cheers Andrew

Here are a few of mine. I'm not sure about the carpet originality, but it's been there a while! I can take more if you want. Cheers Andrew

So the later models didn't have this marvellous feature then?!

Great thanks for that Bob.

Just realised mine in a different layout, not being a truck, but the seized one is probably the manifold one - would make sense. Thanks.

What's the middle knob for? Mine is locked solid, and the writing is worn off them - I don't suppose anyone has done decals for them??

Have only just caught up with this thread from a few weeks ago...so apologies for going back over stuff again, but what have I got here? Standard car on the front and truck one on the rear? (or is that Plymouth at the rear)? I couldn't get raised style hubcaps to fit, so will need to look out for the others. Sorry about the hop bines in the way! - the only photo I have of this side.

Hey Rusty, it's nothing to do with not wanting to buy a 6v battery, it wouldn't matter whether it's 6 or 12 it would still sit there - so I don't appreciate your derogative comments and attitude. This forum is a great source of information for many people and full of HELPFUL advice and doesn't need people like yourself using that sort of tone. I'm not sure what sort of sheds you may have, but don't make assumptions about people, their situation and things you know nothing about. Perhaps asking a few questions before you pass judgement on something or someone would be more helpful. On a more positive note, solar chargers (and the fact they have a very small output/voltage) could help, long term antifreeze, engine preserving oils etc and perhaps even the museum idea is an option to keep the car in reasonable health. It has preserving oil on the body and is turned over by hand now and again and it is in a considerably better state than when I bought it sitting in someone's garden, so as much as it's not an ideal situation it has some degree of protection until my circumstances change. But you never know...perhaps I will actually sell it one day.

I know! Believe me I'd rather not do it, this is why I want to do as minimum as possible and to be able to have it relatively easy to change back when I'm ready to use it more. The thing is it may be two years or so in between runs and there is no power to the storage shed to trickle charge/maintain it. I don't know anyone with a 6v vehicle in the area where the car is (am still on the hunt), otherwise I would just borrow a battery to run it. (I can't really put one in my hand luggage when I fly back there to use it...!)

I'm thinking I have to convert my '36 D2 to 12v for a while. It's in storage and I only get to drive it now and again. It would be simpler to just be able to throw in a 12v battery to give it a run on the odd occasion I do get to drive it. What I'd like to do is just run the engine on 12v and keep everything else 6v through some sort of transformer/reducer if possible, so gauges and lights etc (if there is much else!) will still be 6v. Is this possible and what do i need to step down the 12v to six if so? I imagine the engine is simple enough - 12v coil, condenser and alternator (i think the starter will cope with occasional 12v through it). Does this sound about right or am i getting a bit hopeful?!

Hi John I have these two of mine (RH drive) - not necessarily that good of an angle and I can't get to my car at the moment, but it may help. Andrew

I'd love a crank hole cover...well two really, one for each car, but you can't be too greedy!

Just to throw a potential curved ball...one of my D2's has a 'soft top' panel in the roof. I was told this was to stop the "drumming" that supposedly occurred in these roofs, it seems to be quite a common retro fit over here. Having driven my 'hard top' much more than the soft one I can't say I really complained about it, and it no interior at all! Do you guys see this much elsewhere?

Yes 4 door flatback (the rarer one - I think around 5000 made versus 50,000 of the model with a boot, but someone may be able to correct me there!). It's an NZ one, so right hand drive - I imported it before I exported myself! It's in storage, although I drive it when I'm back in the UK.

Mine is still on 6V and I have never needed bulbs - but I imagine someone would have them. I haven't many photos, but here are a couple.

Hi Farrol, I've got a '36 D2 in the uk - not a coupe though. And I'm not in the uk currently either. You've got a great looking car there, I think I saw it for sale a few years ago there. I had a lock problem on my rear spare too, but the local locksmith sorted it in a few minutes and made me a key - sort of surprised they can't fix it if it was working fine a while ago. I found Andy Bernbaum good for parts and shipping to the UK when I was there, you should be able to get your brake parts through them. Good luck and enjoy the driving, I used to go up the motorway to Northampton and used it around London when I worked there - a bit exciting when it rained using vacuum wipers in the traffic, but there's nothing like a challenge!