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Everything posted by Dodgenz

  1. Great. Thanks very much, keep up the good work!
  2. I haven't been on here for a while so have missed your wonderful work. Awesome stuff! It's given me fresh inspiration to get more done on mine, so finally managed to free off a seized damper/shock absorber last night after months of soaking. Where did you get the strapping for Doc's ones? Also where did you get the radiator recored?- we have Replicore here but they don't do the right type of honeycomb.
  3. Looking really good. What timber did you use for the framing in the tub?
  4. So... it looks like I've answered my own question - or others have ! Having found the "plodges" thread it looks like i have one. It's not 116" that's for sure. Even more rare then. Thanks for pointing me in that direction Pete.
  5. Andrew not Ron, Ian...😉. But thanks anyway! (Assuming Ron didn't do it also!!) Have a good one.
  6. There's a good reason to give it run... So i ended up with 2890mm, which translates to 113.78 inches. Does that make it the Plymouth version Pete? And if the wheelbase is different are the panels a different size? Nothing seems obvious although there is no chrome trim on the doors and rear, only the bonnet. Sorry to sort of hi-jack your thread Fernando, but i suppose this might be of some help towards clarifying your car type.
  7. Yes it's a great forum with some really helpful people. I learn something every time i come on here. It is so good to have the encouragement and it helps enthuse me when at times the jobs can look at bit overwhelming. Thanks so much you fellas! Have a good Christmas.
  8. So might it be that my blue one there is possibly a D3 or 4? I've i feeling someone said the wheels were possibly Plymouth and it has a P2 engine (which i originally thought had just been swapped out at some stage).
  9. This is what i was looking for. I'm not sure where it came from, I've had it for 30 years - maybe someone will know... It says only 5996 were built, which is a pretty small amount compared with total D2 production.
  10. Hi Fernando, Somewhere I had a piece of information on 'flat back' D2 production numbers, but can't find it at the moment. Meanwhile, here is a piece of advertising plus the real thing! Andrew
  11. The pedals on Fernando's one look different too - sideways. Mine are export cars, and they are the same as the US ones, as is the dash. (Although there could be export and export of course!).
  12. What you need is a nice right hand drive vehicle, then your carburettor linkage and steering column will be out the way on the other side! 😉
  13. Very fragile! I was holding one the other day about to do some work on it and it crumbled in my hands. They are not cheap to replace!
  14. A treated pine board should last for years. We have different levels of treatment here for different levels of exposure- H3.2 can get wet, H4 would be exposed to rain, and H5 is in the ground. I guess H3.2 would be plenty. A stain would make it period black or dark, and personally I'd use stainless screws (or you might be able to find something more shiny..).
  15. Could you use several layers of the black roofing paper in pieces and do something like a paper mache shape? If you use the self-supporting type it's thicker and would need less layers, but you'd need an appropriate glue being as it's pretty oily.
  16. Replicore here in NZ make them too. http://www.replicore.co.nz/ They don't have quite the right type for the DA from what I could find, but they should do the D2 style. I am also after one for my D2. But yes, the cost is huge. So also on the look out for a useable second hand one.
  17. All sorted and have managed to get responses from both of these helpful folk. The emails got through, so I know they will work for future reference and it was more likely internet issues that was blocking them. Thanks everyone for your input.
  18. Ok. I'll give them another try and see what happens in another couple of weeks or so. Good things take time, as they say in the cheese adverts (here!)
  19. Hmmm... those are the email addresses I tried. And I don't get this funny thing about not shipping overseas - what's the problem? if someone is willing to pay just bung it in the mail! Oh well, will keep trying. Thanks everyone.
  20. Does anyone have any updates on email addresses for Myers and Romars? I tried Romars and had no response, and the Myers address bounced back. Not so easy(or cheap!) to phone from here... and I only just want to order a couple of simple parts.
  21. Mine have BBR-1's on them and run well. I get about 20mpg which doesn't seem bad considering weight, age and general overall condition of the motors, which aren't recently reconditioned. Being NZ cars we didn't get the Stromberg option - I must admit I didn't know they were the original standard.
  22. Hi Bob, No the carb wasn't rebuilt, as has been fine up until yesterday. I guess something (a jet or something) must be blocked in the carb as fuel is certainly getting to it. I wish I could find my starting fluid - hunted high and low for it! - may have to invest in more.
  23. Normally my '29 DA starts on the button, faster than any modern vehicle I've got. When it hadn't been started for over 15 years it still didn't take many spins of the flywheel, BUT today no go. It has been a couple of months, but this usually is no problem. There is plenty of fuel and a spark, but the plugs aren't getting wet, so it doesn't seem to be getting from the carb to the motor. It pours out of the 'throat' (ie where the choke is) but is not making it up into the manifold. Has our rubbish fuel just turned to water, as it seems to, because it's been in the tank more than a few weeks ? - if so why aren't the plugs wet? or is there something else i'm missing? On a downdraught carb I could just pour fresh fuel in to check this, but not so here. Before I strip it down, does anyone have any ideas?
  24. I have a 1960 Rover which has a similar freewheeling option, so the idea was kept going for a few years! You just wind out the knob and can change gear without the clutch and free wheel on 'overrun'. Don't mind it, but of course it's a bit harder on the brakes with no engine braking. (Currently I have no brakes at all, so not going very far, esp. in freewheel mode!)
  25. I have only just seen your thread re the tank dilemmas. Glad you got the tube out, I've taken both of my tanks out of my two cars and had to unscrew the filler tube each time. I think I heated one first (I fill the tank completely with water before I work on/weld them - has worked so far!). I then used a bar in the slot across the top, I guess that's what the slot is for. Believe it or not I've found these tanks really easy to get out - my '49 Daimler is a nightmare in comparison! That's because nothing would ever need to be fixed on a British car! This is my tank cleaner... A few shovelfuls of shingle and a steady cement mixer then disappear for a few hours or so. Works quite well, you just don't want close neighbours. Previous models were running off the PTO of a tractor (in 'land drive' - i.e. jacked up while in gear) with a ground mounted frame and a wind powered one. Of course I could use tank sealer, but where's the fun in that - plus i'm not entirely sure I trust it).
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