TerryB

Look here: https://www.ronanpaints.com/japan-colors

I think the combo of rally wheels and redline tires look wonderful on your car Steve. The 327 badges hint to performance as most Chevy guys know that engine can get up and go. The rally wheels and redline tires give your car a look that says sporty performance is part of its makeup. Changing to the standard hubcaps with whitewall tires will take the presentation in the opposite direction to something along the lines more formal and subdued. I like the performance look over formal. Great looking car regardless of the choice you make.

Having easy external screw access probably explains why no key lock is included 😀. I guess security wasn’t as big an issue back then. Times sure change.

MoPar was a long time sponsor of driver training cars. I took my driver’s exam in our high schools 1968 Plymouth driver Ed car.

Having external screw holes in the mounting usually suggests a handle with a more utility use than an automotive door handle.

The green glass thing is a lid to an old time wire topped glass canning jar. The size would probably be for a pint jar. Those type of jars are much older than the car.

Nice looking car. Price seems optimistic.

Well…maybe jig is too strong of a term. One thing I recently bought was an OLFA cutting mat. Seems everyone on YouTube that makes models uses something like this. Mine is 18”x24” and cost $25 at a local store that sells craft and sewing supplies. The mat has lots of grids and measurement markings and is made for those who make clothing. It works out well for staging parts to be cut and/or glued. I have two small heavy steel blocks that I use to either position or hold pieces when I’m gluing. The wooden and metal rulers add some straight edge references too. I usually hold them to the mat with masking tape. The mat has a surface that is smooth without being too slippery. Add in a selection of glues with superglues for fast drying, model cements in liquid and tube and an assortment of slower drying glue and your ready to go!

No need for most of us to achieve that kind of detail but it is sure nice to see. I started trying to make model scenery at age 70 after watching a fellow making scenery for a Christmas train layout at my local library. I asked him a few questions about his work and materials he used. I month later I gave it my first shot, using 1/64 scale instead of ho’s 1/87 scale. The slightly bigger scale was a little easier to handle and I had mostly 1/64 cars and trucks in my collection. It can be fun for a beginner if you first realize you won’t be perfect and the only one you have to please is you. Recently I did a few things in 1/87 scale but I did concede to using some model kits to get there. This recently built garage is HO as is this diorama of a local trolley line that ran until 1948. It’s a slow go at times, waiting for paint or glue to dry is usually the slowdown coupled to waiting for inspiration to hit. I am poor at planning out on paper what I want to do.

This is a nice 1964 Pontiac Grand Prix Royal in 1/64 scale made by Auto World / Johnny Lightning. I got it for $5.99 at Target.

I bought a Schwinn multi speed 26” bike to ride on local rail trails about 20 years ago. It was not the original Schwinn company but hey, it still said Schwinn !

That’s the nature of things. If it was Ford and not Chevy ect. I like it so if it doesn’t sell that’s ok too.

I can appreciate your desire to fix it. A good support for the lens while the glue dries is important with gluing projects. Good luck to you!

I guess the question comes down to the truck drums fitting on the car spindles and axles.

Loctite makes a specific glue for glass applications. I’ve never used it, I just know it’s available. My local hardware store sells it. I use E6000 glue for many applications but it is not a fast drying glue. It does seem to be able to hold all types of things together. You might have to use a soft putty base to support the lens while you glue it. Here is a link to the Loctite site. https://www.loctiteproducts.com/en/products/specialty-products/specialty/loctite_glass_glue.html

Internet says it’s positive ground.

Each windshield wiper would have its own vacuum drive motor in 1935 if the car is original. There are no windshield washer functions with these systems. If you include photos it can help with understanding the parts you need.

Great! Thanks for replying. I’m not a Model A guy but lots on here are. If you edit your title to say Model A brake help you will get more attention to your question.

Cool bike! Not many kids that I knew had a Schwinn back in the day. I had an AMF Roadmaster, the poor kids similar bike but far from as well built as the Schwinn.

Worth and desirability of some stuff is hard to judge. I have this Anco wiper motor ad that was made to be displayed in a window. It was never used. I bought a rustic frame and framed it up nice and put a price of $45 on it at my little antique co-op space. It’s still there after 6 months.

Barrett Jackson had the kite at auction. They said it was 1961 era. https://www.barrett-jackson.com/Events/Event/Details/NOS-1961-AC-Spark-Plugs-High-Flying-Action-advertising-kite-192287

Could be 1958 as the fenders look wide enough to use dual headlights.

Yes, brand of automobile is needed!

Your description of wants is difficult to decipher. A vacuum windshield wiper motor I think is one on your list. Do you mean a wiper motor for each side? The other is lug bolts for the wheels?

No under the hood pics to show the restoration there. I’m always a little worried when the seller can’t accurately identify the year of the car.