Dashmaster

I was planned to making the trip early this year but the Reatta would not cooperate. Hopefully next year will work out. Great Pictures, Great the hear everyone had a good time.

Wow, so I have a one of 114 made in 88, White with Blue. Since mine is a later run car I did not think there would ever be anything speical or limited about it other then the number left on the road for 88. Considering mine needs paint, I have thought about changing the color a couple of times and even having a lower cost paint job becuase of the mileage and figured it just as a driver. I guess I have to re-think it. Now that its a lower combination number not that it may affect its value any, But to preserve the combination since there may not be many left on the road. So looks like a good quality white paint job in in its future.

Worked on some exhaust heat shield noise (rub). Finally can say exhaust is completely fixed with the new mid pipe now installed. Re-Charged the A/C using 134a purchased thru the Reatta Store. A/C is working good. I have a Gauge Set to check pressures. ( I have paperwork from the original owner that had the A/C converted by a GM dealer not many miles ago, invoice was around $1000 for the conversion).

I need to take the time to look over the DB to see how many cars had the Blue Interior. Most I see are another color. Also I have not seen a convertable with blue interior. I agree Black interior would have been great. All Great information. Thanks to all of you that take the time to complie this information.

From looking at these wiring diagrams it appears that the ECM is switching ground connections to the solenoids. The Reds are all common and should have 12 volts on them with key on and brake not activated. I would use a meter to make sure the reds all have 12 volts present. If not you will need to resolve why no power to them. If all the reds have 12 volt power, then to activate the solenoids ground is supplied on the other colored wires controlled by ECM. I know when I wired TCC lockups on my early 90's Chevy trucks I supplied a ground to active the TCC.

I decided just to replace the IAC instead of cleaning. My car sat for a long time and had a clogged cat. So since I have had to fix other stuff related to the clogged cat i figured I would just replace it. I did clean the car side ports before installing the new IAC.

This is a tread from the problem that I had on my 88. http://forums.aaca.org/f116/automatic-dimming-question-saving-override-daylight-388927.html

Congratulations!!!!!! Great Job!!!!. That turned out to be a wonderful mess!

After getting the CRT back and wipers fixed I began to drive the car again to see what else it may need. It did start the rough idle again not as bad as before the OX, and it also started having hesitation when starting off and random shudder at highway speeds. I did some more research and replaced the IAC (Purchased from the Reatta Store ). Idle problem solved. I then check my coils since they were from the junkyard and they were in spec. All Plugs and wires were new. When I first stated working on the car I had fuel injection issues and replaced the injectors with fuel rail from junk yard. Clean all injectors before install. Used the fuel regulator that was on the rail. Found fuel in the vacuum line so I replaced it with the old one. Hesitation now gone and runs best it has so far. The OX sensor and IAC is what fixed the rough idle and stall.

I agree it looks Gray in the picture but it is Blue for sure.

I would be interested in the handle straps fillers.

White / Blue 1988 VIN last 4 numbers. 3626.

If you could not turn the ignition switch are you sure you have a correct keys for it. It might very well start with a good battery and the proper key. It would be better to get it running to sell it. Right now it will be hard to move if the steering wheel is locked.

Last 2 weekends were trying to fix wipers. CRT was before that, Exhaust before that. This weekend finished the wipers, re-did the splices under pass seat, and gave it a bath and a short drive.

Since I got this car. Its been one job after job to get it back on the road. Lots of parts and lots of time. I never took any picture when I first got it but do have pictures on everything I have done to it. My List is long and costly. Every time I fix one thing, something else goes wrong. So right now I think it can be driven. Still needs work. You can't tell in the pictures but this car needs paint. All the clear coat is gone on the hood,headlight doors and tops of both front fenders. This was caused by a bad repaint by dealer after original owner hit a deer in it causing minor damage but need parts re-painted.

The 2 biggest issues after getting the 88 I have that sat for a long time was Rusted Brake and Fuel lines near tank. Ethanol gas mixed with old gas causing fuel pump failure, Clogged fuel injectors. I would check the brake lines really good before driving it. Then my list gets long on all the other things that I have had to repair to get mine on the road. I had a post about 6 months ago about tire rack having good deal on closeout tires. Not sure if that is still available. A good going over will be needed. Test Everything !!! Check the Reatta Owners Journal for good repair information and the Reatta Store for good part deals. Best of Luck!!! and Welcome to the forum.

I did not see the Free offer so I should have read it all. I hope someone can make one good car out of the 2. If my car was not so needy then I might have had time for it.

I would have considered the Parts car but since the Steering is disconnected, It would be very hard to move around. The running car I also considered but figure my costs to come and get it would be in the $250 range and I would not restore the car, It would be for parts so it just does not make sense. Best of luck to you in finding them new homes.

I got just one seal from NAPA when I had a slight leak at the transmission seal on the passenger side of mine. Out of all the axles I have replaced, no trans seals ever came with them. I have gotten all of my axles from NAPA and did not have any issues with them. Most of the axles were for Saturn and other GM cars.

I will vouch for the New Design Headlight Kit also. It was easy to install and works great. The instructions were very good.

I think I found the HI issue. The arm that attaches to the motor then to the main arm where you make adjustments is rounded out at the motor shaft part enough that it will work on low but not on high. This is a lot like the headlight arm issue with one metal harder than another wearing out the part. . So Now I will have to see what I can find in my local Junk Yard. Or see if there is another way to repair this. Here are some picture of the part.

Been working on my Wipers. Here is the issue, with original motor if you turn wipers on low they would not park just stop where they were, Hi would not do anything but moved the wipers some. All of my switches appears to work properly. Bought replacement motor figuring the park switch was bad on the original. Installed new motor, Wipers worked on low and delay just fine. But not HI. I have all the access covers off. Observing the arm attached to motor when on low it rotates all the way round just fine, switch to HI it will make one loop around then makes a clicking noise in the motor and does not loop any more. Both Motors do this on HI. All the arms are free and have been lubricated and work without much resistance. Yes I know the replacement motor may not be good. Anything else I should consider. Also the HI fails with no wiper arms attached so they are not adding any load or resistance. Any and all suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks in Advance Wayne

Congratulations on your Purchase, and Welcome to the forum. Edit your profile and put at least the Year and Color of your car. This will help other when responding to you posts. Not sure what part of the country you are in and hopefully the car has not sat for a long period of time. Look it over good underneath for rusted parts. This forum is top notch for helping out. Enjoy your new car !!!

Ronnie, the description on the Reatta Store looks good to me. Also good to know you have not torqued them yet, I also did not torque mine until I had them all installed.

If the first picture is the outer mount on the Rt side of the car, It does not looked compressed/drawn up tight. Did you Torque the bolts to 75 ft lbs. ? Look at my pictures on the ROJ document, or in my original thread on my install and compare. If they have been torqued that picture does not show it. You did a very good job, Hardest part is getting the old mounts out without braking off a center bolt.