Daves1940Buick56S

Yup, production total of the 56 Business Coupe is 2449. Your body number is a bit over 2000 so likely late in the model year production, like Spring 1941. Cheers, Dave

Paint is 560 - Carlsbad Black. I cannot find my trim cheat sheet. I see from digging that 901 is Tan Broadcloth for Series 40 cars. 902 is ? Interesting that the firewall label says 56 and not 56S. Is it a Business Coupe? Does it have a back seat? If it is a 1941 Super Business Coupe I think that is quite a rare bird. Cheers, Dave

I do my 1940 to 75.

For a data point, I am still using the expandable plugs I installed in 2012 as detailed earlier in this thread. Almost 10 years later and they are still fine.

If your DMV is intransigent...get a punch set with the letters and numbers you need. Find a place on the frame not readily observable. Punch the numbers in and dirty it up nicely. Then take the car to the nearest office and say "look what I found." Sometimes you gotta just play their game.

Could that be a casting number from somewhere on the engine?

Watched the snow melt of them lol! But I did help a friend work on his 65 Mustang

Machine shops have those plugs and they can press the old ones out, tank the rod and blow it out, and press in new caps. My local shop did for abt $50

I have a 4.44 pumpkin that I will give away if someone will come get it. It's for my 1940 but should fit up to 54? I am in Rockville MD near DC. In a heavy box and ready to go. No I am not shipping it. If I do that then it will have be a sale to make it worth the hassles. Thanks Dave

Whoa...you got me with that one!

Just my opinion, but I definitely would not use GL-5. The higher sulphur content can eat away at brass parts, plus the extra "slipperiness" (engineering term!) can make your synchros slip more, leading to biting if you upshift or downshift too quickly. If your synchros are worn at all this will make it worse. My 40 uses GL-4 and it works fine. My 38 bites a bit with GL-4 especially when hot so I am going to change to GL-1 next Spring. I also use GL-4 in the rear of both cars. My 38 66S has the 3.90 but I put a 3.6 into my 40. Cruises nice. Cheers, Dave

Yeah that caught my eye too. Let's see, the number of old car folk draining their oil out if letting the car sit for a month is...pretty much zero!

This is the tool that works for me https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-tools/body/windshield-molding-door-handle-clip-pliers

With any car that has been sitting it's drive/break/fix and repeat until all of the marginal stuff gives way. It may be annoying but eventually the repairs come with less frequency and you get it all done. If you drive it regularly it will be as reliable as any other 1970s car was at the time. I spent years getting my '40 sorted out, although I started off way worse than you did, and now I can just run out, start it up, and go anywhere I want. You will get there! Cheers Dave

I heard a strange squeaking from under the hood once. Lack of power too.

Ben - no I dont think so. I went all round the timing cover to see if any leaks. None I could see and the cover is free of the pan. However I did see, as the very front pan fastener, a nut and bolt! I guess the block threads stripped. If I have to pull the pan it's going to be a witch.

Lawrence: yeah we took the hood off as a unit. Interesting point on the timing chain cover. I will check.

Dropped radiator off today. On the new freeze plug. This is the first one I have replaced not using the rubber expansion plug. No room for that here. Any special sealant to use or just pound it in plain?

Wow that manifold looks like the one I had and junked. Call Dave Tachney or PM Greg 2Carb40. And if you get a separate intake reassemble with the exhaust and have a machine shop with a long table grind it down even.

Torque spec is 25 lbs ft or ft lbs if you prefer. Like Bob said start at like 7 or 8 and go up in small increments.

25. Start from the center and alternate towards the outside. Are you using new gaskets? Also the washers are supposed to be Belleville. Put the cup side out, dish side in. Also if you have time pick up some copper hi temp antiseize and put on both sides of the gasket as the whole assy moves a bit as it heats up. Mark Shaw knows which stuff to get.

Check for fuel delivery. Fuel pump pressure and capacity tests.

My "present"

Pics...

Thanks Jim! Yeah it went smoothly today. Had to fight 2 bolts but otherwise came right out. Did not have to pull the alternator. I also got the remainder of the freeze plug out once I had room to work. And...I found a present! Some goofball had previously replaced that plug and just pounded the old one into the cyl head and left it there. Niiiice!!!! I was able to get that one out too. Pics coming....