Pete K.

Jason, I do have a copy of that booklet and saw those pictures too. Again, I must dismiss the idea of my pouch in question ever stowing anything like the side curtains or the rods. When folded up, it measures only 10 inches by 16 inches with NO sign of anything metallic or sharp or pointy or greasy ever in it. Try folding up all six side curtains without creasing the Isinglass and see how large of a bundle you have in front of you. As far as the rods, they are too long to fit in this pouch. I still say it must have been for the manuals--(?)-- To answer your question Ray, all the items you mentioned, should fit fine under the front seat. At least in my Budd-bodied Dodge there is room, there is where I found tools and crank among many mouse houses (and mouse out-houses).

Or can be an idle bypass orifice clogging up.

Chris, If you still have a problem with the carb spilling out and mating surface/gasket is verified good, it is your old cork float. Over time, they shrink and rot and become non-buoyant. A NOS cork float is expensive and you're still getting a 74 year old piece of cork. Try locating a "composite" material float that some parts vendors sell for other cars. It may be adaptable to your carb.

Jerred, Try LeBaron-Bonney in Amesbury, Ma. They are very helpful with any questions about any upholstery job and sell any and all the materials. I've dealt with them a few times and had good experiences. They are not just Ford people.

I've been trying to find time for the old car hobby here in the barn. On the '25 Dodge to be exact. I still have the fuel system off, waiting on some new gaskets. I posted this picture of my carburetor, I don't know if I should put it back on the Dodge or my fireplace mantle. I painted the iron mixing chamber semi-gloss black, heat resistant paint that the Rust-oleum people just came out with. I think that section may have been engine color though. It sure looks "purdy" though. This is the only variation from original I'll be making on the Dodge. Also, my soon to be fabricated top saddles! I used a gallon can of carb cleaner I picked up at the local "Autozone". Made by "Berryman" co. of Arlington Tx. "since 1918", on the label. This is the really good stuff which "boils" when parts are in it. This will not damage the bronze or brass castings of an old carb.

Jan, if you can find this out, let me know, I think I've got a pair of rears for a '23. They're kind of rough,but the price is right--FREE- just pay shipping!

Yes, this will work, but I have to mention I believe the modern, chemical, gas treatments may be an easier way to go. If they won't work, I think one would need to un button the engine and do some scraping. I use a product called "Seafoam", a gas and oil treatment and stabilizer to boot. It works well and seems to do what the can says it will do. Did you know some early, large aircraft had a water injection system for their engines? It was definitely not for removing carbon, but for added power on takeoff!

Hi Jason, The only thing I can see the odd shroud could be for, is a fold up pouch for the Dodge Brothers booklets. There were a set of fasteners that were removed from the one side of the fabric panel to fasten it all up. This could of been stored under the front seat originally, but I found it in a box of all the side curtains stored in the rafters. It surely was not for the jack, since that would have left some odd and grimy indentations.--Pete.

Try asking Don Axlerod of "Headlight Headquarters"---His ad is always in Hemmings, somewhere. He lives in Lynn, Ma. He would know what they went to. He's been in the antique car headlight business as long as I can remember. (and that's a long time).

Sorry for my confusion, I didn't know it was your avatar Dodge you were working on. Here's the rim tool I use on the older split rims. It makes a tough job a bit easier. Good luck--Pete.

Doug, I'm not really sure if you're asking about truck type split rims with the separate rings, or the passenger type split rims. First and most importantly, make sure all air is out of tire. The passenger type split rim has a lock tab that can be turned with a hefty tool, enough to clear the split in the rim. Work the tire bead over one side of the rim at a time while trying to "collapse" the rim inwards. Sort of in a spiral attempt. A special tool was made to pull in at three points on the rim, using arms with hooks, adjusted by a crank in center not unlike an old auto jack workings. I've seen other types too, in sort of a long, double-rod design, with hex nuts as the medium for length adjustment. Without this kind of tool for these split rims on the passenger cars, it's sort of like wrestling alligators.

Bill, I must have been born blond!

I don't get it.

Hi Mike, I hope these help you--Pete.

Mike, Here's two photo's ---first pic is with the spark & throttle lever all the way down. Second is the levers all the way up. I hope you can make out what's what in my rats nest, still un-cleaned and mostly original, unmolested engine compartment. If you need a closer photo of a part involved with the linkages, let me know..., Pete.

Mike, I've had great results from a product available most auto stores, it's called "Seafoam".

Mike, Something's telling me your fuel level is OK in the in-line filter you've got. The original vacuum system probably only bleeds a small portion of engine vacuum to the Stewart tank, or rather the valve system in the Stewart tank is needing a portion of engine vacuum to trickle the fuel into vacuum tank as needed, thereby, system does not require a "return line" to rear tank. As long as your vacuum tank fills the lower chamber with fuel for the gravity portion of system to the carb, you're all set. I hope this explains why your in line filter is not filling all the way up.---Pete.

Mike, I don't see any trace of the cowl area that you ask of had any kick panels on them. I'm kind of surprised at this finding since even the old Fords had kick panels there.

Thanks karasmer! That's exactly what I'll do. I do have some wood bleach here, they label it as "Oxalic acid".---Pete.

I don't mind the smell of shellac, or just about anything else in reason, but this stuff is THE WORST. Jason, I'd be shot if I tried to pass this off as "shine"--Here's a photo of the "real McCoy"--Note how it is crystal clear.I'm thinking of selling my copper still, Do you want a new vocation? I hear there's good money in it. Anyway, my gas tank is also full of chunks too, I'm trying to get time today to start the cleaning process. I'm not going to use a sealer at the end, albeit no pin holes, From what I'm reading here on the forum, I'm not sure what the future holds for other fuel additives that could destroy a sealer.

Here's a photo of the 1925 touring car rear compartment showing the rear seat cushion out, and the rusty steel inner base, from mice-- luckily, only surface damage, but there is no extra parts to support the seat cushion, whereas it sits in the steel recess supported by it's own perimeter seat spring edge. The heel part of rear floor has two riveted tabs able to turn them, to hold or release the rear floor board. Any trace of original matting, rubber or fabric is gone, I'm holding up a replacement ribbed floor mat put in years ago. There are many "punch tabs" in lower front seat metal frame, rear, that held some kind of a panel, long gone. It would have gone about 1/3rd up the back from rear floor. The second photo is the driver's side floor-to-cowl welting, I believe it to be original. The pass. side welting is gone.

Well, it seems these days, everybody that has a 1920's Dodge is pulling off their fuel tanks for clean out and repairs. This now includes me, which was on my recent find near my home, the '25 touring. I knew there wasn't much of any fuel in the tank, that I could determine and I felt very lucky that the drain screw came out OK, it's a 3/8" hex head, and found it to be a steel tapered plug. When I removed it, only a slight drip - drip --- SO.. I took a nail to the tiny opening, and GOOSH! The worst smelling, foul liquid spewed out, quickly filling the coffee can I had in my other hand. Back went the drain screw to halt Hell's Fluid, of course it went right down my arm and into my sweatshirt sleeve. Off to locate a bigger can! I was amazed that the tank strap nuts came loose so easy, I had sprayed the threads earlier with Liquid Wrench, still a long process with a 9/16" box wrench. Not enough room above the strap screws for a socket wrench. Got tank off car, with it laying on my belly, as I am on my back on floor, under car. I can see this will really be FUN putting this back in place! I will build a stand for this job. I removed the gauge bezel OK, out came the fuel sending unit, complete with original cork float, all rusted into one dark brown glob. The photo is of a "clear" plastic jar with some of the "fluid" (it's no longer gasoline)- that I drained out of tank. And this is held up to the light!!

Thanks 1930, I got a kick out of it.

Try swapping out your condenser.

Yup, I have a '31 Ford Model A, Your rear axles have '35 Ford 16" wire wheels on it. Originally the '31 Ford had 19" rims. The emergency brake carrier is gone from the brake ass'y too. I still love to find elderly iron in the woods, but getting very scarce these days.