nickg112

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Everything posted by nickg112

  1. Can anyone tell me what year, make and model Mercedes this steering wheel if for? It looks like a 1964-1966 230SL but not sure if it is for additional models or if it is a Mercedes for sure.
  2. nickg112

    1929 Stutz on Ebay

    Just thought that I would put my two cents in. I have bought many classic cars over the years. I do not know if the car in question is a good car or is being sold for a good price. Comparing classic and antique cars and prices is like comparing apples and oranges. Every car is different. There are no two alike. The value of any classic car is one of the most difficult things to establish. But it is a question that comes up in topics on all collector car sites. The simple answer is that it is worth what a buyer is willing to buy it for vs. what a seller is willing to sell for. Books and websites that are written for the purpose of estimating value are not etched in stone and are only for reference. Why is it that you see "selling for less than" a certain guide or a recent appraisal in many for sale ads? Just because a car sold today for a certain price does not necessarily mean that the it could be sold again for the same price. It could sell for more or less depending on many factors. I think where most people miss the boat is when they see a car that they like, they just sit on the sidelines and do not make an offer. I am not sure why that is. Common classic cars are one thing. If you miss it, there will be another tomorrow. With a rare car such as a Stutz, Auburn, Cord, Packard, etc, if you miss it, you may never have an opportunity to buy again. All to often sellers ask more than what the market will bear. If a seller is non negotiable and has a firm price, make an offer anyway and leave contact information with the seller. Call back every month or two and show an interest. You may be surprised. Sellers sometimes come to their senses and face reality. If they really want to sell a car, they will eventually figure out what the market price is for their car. As a buyer, establish your maximum price and try to be realistic. The simple answer is a car sells for what it is worth. Know what you are buying and know what needs to be done to the car. Know what expenses you will have after the purchase. Every once in awhile you "just have to go for it". Get involved in the hobby, buy a car and have fun.
  3. I have a steering wheel that I would like to identify. I believe that it is a Hudson. I have attached a photo. Does anyone have any ideas?
  4. Thanks to everyone for all of the help
  5. I have attached a photo of the tool that I used. Also, I am showing the tie rod ends. I can tighten these up now that they are clean and free of grease and dirt. I am not sure exactly how to adjust. They can now be tightened so that they are stiff so the ball and shank do not move. Obviously they need a little movement. Has anyone ever adjusted these before?
  6. I wanted to let everyone know that I found the exact tool needed in a used tool sore. It is similar to the one pictured above except the blade is .150 thick and it is one inch wide. It fit the slots on the tie rod ends and the drag link perfctly. I was able to get everything apart very easily. I did not even need heat. Now that everything is apart, I soaked everything in mineral spirits. All of the internal parts look good. I see some wear but very little. Now that the screw move freely, I think that the drag link and tie rod ends should adjust and work great. I am not 100% positive but I am thinking that is why ther is an adjustment to begin with. My parts were just frozen and filled with dirt. Has anyone been able to adjust these? Any pointers?
  7. Thanks for the photos and thanks to all for the advice.
  8. Question: How wide is the slotted end of your tool? Is it wider than a normal wide blade screwdiver? Is it possible to attach a photo?
  9. Thank you for the info. I appreciate it
  10. It is an 8 cyliner model CF. I have attached a couple of photos
  11. I have not been able to find the correct tie rod ends for my 1931 Desoto and am now looking for someone to rebuild my existing ones. Does anyone have a source to buy or rebuild? In the process, I noticed that the drag link seems worn. With the tie rod removed, I noticed some play in the wheels, steering and drag link. I am not sure how much play there should be. It does state in my service manual that drag links can be adjusted. On both ends of the drag link there is a large slot for a large flat blade screw driver. The manual says to turn these in all the way and then back them off one and one half turns. I cannot turn these screws. Has anyone ever adjusted these? Are there any tricks to loosening this? Seems like the largest screw driver is not really a good fit. Please see attached photos. Also note on the last photo, the nut that attaches the drag link. I tried loosening that nut and it turns on the stud about a quarter of a turn and then is absolutely frozen and will not turn. I thought that I could remove the drag link and then work on the adjustment outside the vehicle. That is a failure also because I cannot remove the nut. I have also attached a photo of my tie rod ends, just in case anyone knows where I can get these or have them rebuilt. Thank you Nick
  12. I have a very nice 1950 Ford project for sale on eBay. Has great chrome and trim. It is on eBay now. Selling at no reserve. Ford : Other 2 door in Ford | eBay Motors Check it out.
  13. Thank you for your help. I really appreciate it. I am going to Arizona next week to check the car out.
  14. I have an opportunity to purchase a 1906 Ford Model N located in Tuscon Arizona. I am planning on making a trip to check it out. The car that I am looking at is a 2 passenger car. There are no running boards. Were these cars made without running boards? Could running boards have been an option? Also, it looks like the car has three pedals like the Model T. I am not going to start the engine but need to get it in neutral. How do you put this car in Neutral? Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. I have only owned Model A's before so this is really new to me. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. What else should I look for to show originality?
  15. I am interested in buying an 8 cylinder, Standard, 319 CID, 1931 Packard Motor. Will also consider a 1929 or 1930 Standard Motors. Please respond to this post or email me at <!-- e -->nickg112@comcast.net<!-- e -->. Thank you
  16. I had a few old rivets that worked fine. You should be able to find some at various old auto parts suppliers. If you cannot find any, I would consider using the old ones with a little adhesive on the rivet such as JB Weld. Remember that when you drill the part that has been smashed at assembly. Just remove enough material to remove the rivet and top of the unit.
  17. I just wanted to let everyone know that I followed Richasco's instructions and my unit now works perfectly. I found it a little harder to pry the top off and I had to drill the rivets out. The unit was full of rust. I cleaned it and sprayed with electrical cleaner. The brass armature on the end of the rotating unit had to be bent to get an accurate OHM reading. Thanks again for the instructions.
  18. I am going to try the above next week. Your procedure really has some great detail. I will let you know how it works out. I will take some photos. My gears are actually in good shape so i do not think that is a problem. I do seem to have some play in the shaft but that may be an issue with the contact points in the inner workings. Thanks
  19. I appraise, buy and sell classic cars. From what I can see of the photos, if this car is original and running/driving with all the correct parts, the value would be $5,000 to $10,000. $5,000 if it is an older restoration with a fair paint job. Up to $10,000 with professional paint and factory correct interior. To approach $15,000, it would have to be close to a number 1 car on a scale of 1-6. A Concours restorations would be higher. This is the best that I can appraise this at with the limited photos and no description. I would need to see a the engine compartment and detailed photos of the interior as well as an accurate physical description. I hope this helps.
  20. I appreciate all of the information. It has been very helpful. I am going to try two things. One is to take it apart and clean it. My backup is a unit that I am going to purchase at JC Whitney. This is the part number R257060B. It looks like a perfect fit and it comes up as a part that will fit in a 31 Chrysler. It is only $35 and worth a shot. It may be awhile before I get to this. I am making a new harness and will also be out of town for a couple of weeks. When I am done, I will post back and let everyone know. I have attached a photo. Does anyone know what the resistance should measure on the original unit?
  21. Let me know if you have any luck. Keep checking this post. I will also let you know if I have any success. Thanks
  22. I have a 1931 Desoto 8 cylinder sedan. I removed the gas tank and the fuel sending unit. I checked it and it is not working. I looked for a replacement but cannot locate one. Has anyone ever repaired one of these sending units? If so, please give me some advice. Also, I was thinking about buying a common 6 volt unit and modifying it fit my car. I am not certain of the ohm range that is needed for the new unit. I will need the same ohm range for the dash gauge to work properly. Any advice is appreciated. I have included a couple of photos of my fuel sending unit. Thanks
  23. Thanks. I thought it might be a truck engine. But it just did not make sense since I believe the Phaeton is all original. I guess anything could have happened back then
  24. I have 4 Model As. Two of them have engine numbers that make sense to me but two do not. The two that are difficult to read are as follows. If I could not read a number, I put an "N" in the designated spot. 1929 Phaeton: AA22NN299 1928 Coupe: AA2965414 I did not think that engines have an "AA" code. My other two cars start with just one A. The Phaeton really seems to be all original. It looks un-restored with one repaint. I am not certain about the coupe. Any ideas about the "AA" designation?
  25. Just for your information, I have had some really good luck selling parts on Great Old Cars The ads are free and it is a very busy site.