nickg112

Over the years I have owned several Chevys from 51-54. I have noticed stamping of the VIN on the tag in the door frame varies somewhat. I see the following: ten numbers and letters in a straight row with no spaces (no photo attached) after the first letter, a small space followed by 9 numbers and letters (photo attached) after the 4th letter, a space and then 6 numbers (photo attached) I know what each number and letter decode is but that is not the problem or my question. Which one of the three above is correct? Or are they all correct? Could the difference just be in differences in the factory procedures? Photos below

I have a 1971 Mustang Mach 1. I purchased a new turn signal switch. It mounts under the steering wheel and has a harness that connects to a main harness at the end of the steering column. I broke an electrical connector pin in the harness at the bottom of the steering column in the connector. There are ten pins. I broke one male connector. Does anyone know where I can but this electrical pin connector? Thanks for any help.

I tested switch. I am sure that it is the motor. 41 is a unique design and no one seems to want to touch them. It is a late 41 motor. I have been told that early 41 motors are easier and have normal internals. Late 41s have a metal to metal seal. No gasket. Early 41s have a gasket. I would love to find an early 41 but do not have a part number and not sure how to identify without opening up. Currently my wiper will move to far position when switch is turned on. It stays in that position until switch is turned off. Then wiper goes to home position

Tried disconnecting exhaust manifold. It was worth a try but nothing changed. Still won't start. Car is timed properly, I have spark, good compression and fuel. I believe that the problem is cranking the car. It cranks hard. Engine was rebuilt years ago and sat for a long time. When I remove spark plugs it cranks easy. I believe everything is just tight. Thinking of a way to crank car for several minutes and put oil in cylinders. Do it for several days for a few minutes every day. I'll try towing in the spring if nothing else works and there is nothing else I can try. Looking for any ideas. Thank You

Thanks for the explanation Steven I am going to give it a try. Thanks Nick

I have a 1941 Ford that is stock. Everything works on the car except the wipers. My understanding is that the wipers (switch and motor) are a one year design. Ford changed the design after the war. The switch operates by vacuum and a vacuum line goes from the switch to the motor. I usually have motors rebuilt by "Wiperman" and have had good luck. He will not work on 41s because of the poor design. Electric wipers are not an option. There is no room because I have a heater and working radio. Has anyone run into this problem before? Do I have any other option?

Steven I will try that but am wondering why. What am I trying to show? Thanks

I checked compression before reading mikewest suggestion. I checked after I put a little oil in each cylinder, and I have 40 PSI. I will check in a few days without adding any oil and post results. At this point, I believe my compression is good, but I will check as suggested. I am totally lost. I have compression, fuel and spark at the right time. Even if I was off a little, I would think that there would be some type of firing. As many times as I have tried, I have never heard any sound or even a backfire.

The only thing I have not checked is compression. It feels like I have plenty but not sure. I should get my adapter in a few days. Once I check it I will post results. Thanks to all

In TDC Compression Coils all buzz with corresponding plugs

Thanks for all of the help, I guess I did not answer the question directly. Th.e car is at TDC. I verified today. I added a little 2 stroke gas in each cylinder. The car will not pop or sputter when cranked. Cranking seems very hard. I remove all plugs and the car cranks very easy. I am absolutely stuck on what to do next. I have rebuilt the carburetor and put in a new timer. Buzz boxes have been set with a tester/ setter that I purchased. I am using a new 12V lawn mower type battery

It doesn't even make an attempt to start. I did put the car in Neutral and put it on blocks. It does turn a little easier. I was thinking it could be fuel problem so I tried putting a little fuel in each cylinder. Still nothing. I previously tried a little oil in each cylinder. Nothing again. I really do not want to tow it. Thanks for any help

Well, I ordered a new Anderson Timer, cam seal, timing gauge, etc. I installed today. Same results. Will not start. I did find this interesting: I made sure that the number 1 piston was just starting the downstroke, made an adjustment on the 1/4 inch rod to fit properly at that point. I did a double check with the gage that I purchased. For some reason the gage would put the rod in a different position. So now I am not sure whether to use the gage or my initial adjustment. When you look at the photos, I made a black mark on the gauge where the rod would be located if I used the gage. That is a big difference. I have not made any progress and am unable to start the car. I do not get a sound, backfire or anything resembling a start. I did try jacking up the rear end. I prefer not to tow start.

I have a 1949 Dodge Coronet with a manual transmission. The shop manual says to use a SAE 10 W oil. I am assuming that they are talking about hydraulic oil but unsure. Can anyone tell me what works for this car?

I may have misspoke. I see commutators that looks similar but not exactly the same so I’m not sure which one to buy. Do I replace the cap as well as the rotor pin and retainer? Or do I adjust and clean? The parts look good to me. Three photos attached to show what I have.

I actually did that. The inside of the cap looks good. No metal shavings or rust. Not sure what to look for in the mating parts.

Thank you I am sure that I tested correctly. When I look on Langs and Snyders site, I do not see a commutator that looks like mine. My cap is different. What do you think my next step should be?

Thank you for the information JFranklin. I did not get any cross buzz when I ran a wire one at a time from the engine metal to the commutator wire. Each coil buzzed individually with no cross buzz. Even though I did not get a cross buzz, I still did part 2 from the coil box insulators to engine ground. Each coil again buzzed individually with no cross buzz. Seems like this test would say it is in the timer harness or the timer itself. How do I know which? Or is it something else?

Thank you for the information JFranklin. Could you please clarify for me? Where do I specifically ground? How am I grounding? What am I expecting to see?

Today I Checked buzz coils and timer visually. Cleaned up all contact points on coils and coil box. Repaired one broken wire at timer. Oiled Timer. Still see arcing on coils between coil 3 and 4. Number 4 coil will buzz randomly as I crank the car: Number 4 will buzz at the same time as number 1,2 or 3 buzz. I moved coils in different positions in box: 1 to 4 and 4 to 1. Moving coils did not change outcome. Number 4 coil position still showed arcing and also randomly buzzed when other coils buzzed. So number 4 coil position is the issue and not the coil itself. I also tried 3 coils only with nothing in the 4 position. 1,2,3 then worked corectly Is this outcome telling me that my timer is the issue?

I have looked at the two suggestions and this is what I found: In every case when I was at top dead center the correct number buzz coil sparked We saw cross arcing on the firewall terminals as follows: number 1 terminal had no cross arcing number 2 terminal cross arced to the magneto terminal number 3 terminal cross arced to number 4 terminal number 4 terminal cross arced to the battery terminal I was only able to see this cross arcing when we landed and stopped at top dead center in the bat position. Normal cranking and not stopping at TDC, the cross arcing is not seen. So it looks like the problem is identified. Not sure why or what is causing the problem. Any ideas? Thank you for any help

I think my timing may be off as is suggested in responses. I am not sure how to do this. Can you reference this procedure somewhere? Also, I believe I have a lot of compression. Car is hard to crank but easy once I pull a plug. Any help on timing is appreciated.

I have a 1913 Model T. The vehicle was restored years ago and has not been started for a long time. I have not been able to start it. This is what I have done so far: · Cleaned out fuel system including gas tank, fuel lines and carburetor. · Cleaned spark plugs and set gap. · Checked and tested Buzz Coils. I have a tester. · Checked for spark at spark plugs. Sparks good. · Primed engine before starting and the engine seems to be getting fuel · The car had a small 12V (lawn mower type) battery that I replaced with same. Battery used for sparking coils only. · Trying to stat car in Bat position Results with starting: 1. Engine does not make any noise when cranking. It does not sound like it wants to start even though it is getting fuel and spark. No roll over sound. 2. I can crank engine, but it cranks hard. Feels like I have a lot of compression. I believe the engine was rebuilt. 3. I did try a little starting fluid in each cylinder to assure it is getting fuel. Same results no engine roll over and it will not start. 4. Tried raising rear of car with jack stands and making sure car is in neutral. No luck starting. 5. I have changed oil and I put a little oil in each cylinder. I am stumped. Does anyone have any ideas on what I can try or what I may be doing wrong? I have had Model Ts before, but this is the first one without electric start.

Well it took me awhile but my problem is fixed. I appreciate all the information. My main problem was the fuel tank. There was a restriction somewhere leading to the fuel outlet. Enough fuel made it to the carburetor at lower speeds only. Although I had previously cleaned the fuel tank out, there was still a restriction. This time I dropped the tank, drained the fuel. I then put in 5 gallons of E85 fuel and sloshed it around for several days. I drained the E85 and I then power washed the inside of the tank. Drained all the water. Some pretty cruddy stuff came out. I then added 5 gallons of white vinegar and sloshed that around for several days. I power washed the inside again and more rust and crud came out. I flushed the tank with pure water and then added a box of baking soda. Sloshed that around and drained and cleaned again. I dried out the tank, installed it in the car, added fuel and took the car for a ride. It shifted into all gears and I got it to 60 MPH with plenty more pedal left. I decided to replace the fuel pump while I was at it. The car runs perfectly, accelerates well and shifts great. Thanks to everyone who took the time to help trouble shoot my problem. I am so pleased with my results. I have attached a few photos of this beauty. That is the original paint. The car is unrestored.

I am not sure. Everyone has a lot of good ideas. I will keep everyone posted as I get this fixed.