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Everything posted by nickg112

  1. I have a 1913 Model T, C Cab with a split windshield. Both pieces of glass are broken. Can anyone guide me in the right direction on how this glass is replaced? What can be reused, how to remove and replace the glass, etc. Can the brass piece that goes around the glass edge be reused? Does anyone also have a good source for purchasing the glass?
  2. I finally fixed the problem. I replaced the shift rod bushings. That removed all slop in the linkage. It now shifts perfectly
  3. Thank you for the information. I have checked the play and it seems to be at a minimum. The shift lever will work for awhile but then hangs up as described. I still believe that the 4 inch dimension between the steering wheel and gearshift control shaft is the culprit but I am having problems setting that dimension as described. If I bring that dimension in as shown in figure four then the 1/8 inch clearance is off as shown in figure three. I am missing something in these instructions. It just does not make sense.
  4. My transmission linkage will hang up on occasion when shifting from 1st or reverse into second or third. When this happens, I can wiggle the linkage at the steering column to get it moving in and out of gear. My Chevrolet manual shows how to adjust. There is a "shifting box" mounted on the steering column where the transmission linkage is connected to. This is where the hang up occurs. As part of the adjustment procedure, there is a dimension of 3/32 to 1/8 inch shown in figure 3 of the gearshift lever image below. I am relatively close on that dimension. The dimension I am having trouble with is figure 4 of the steering wheel image below. Mine measures 4 inches. The way "To correct clearance is to loosen two gearshift control shaft and housing assembly clamp bolts and move housing assembly with upper and lower control shafts and gearshift lever up or down to obtain necessary clearance", according to the manual. I think they are talking about two bolts on the shift shaft that is located on the inside of the truck near the floor. Question: How can this move an inch when the gearshift lever has a screw holding it in place on the steering column? Has anyone done this and if so, please explain.
  5. I have a 1941 Lincoln Continental V12 that seems to need a linkage adjustment. It is jammed in 1st gear and I cannot release it. Looking through service manuals and all information that I have on the car and cannot find anything on this subject. Can anyone guide me in the right direction? Where can I find information on the subject. Thank you
  6. This is a used master cylinder. I am sure that it needs to be rebuilt. let me know if you are interested in it
  7. nickg112

    IMG 1102

    From the album: Graham Hollywood

    1941 Graham Hollywood master cylinder
  8. nickg112

    IMG 1101

    From the album: Graham Hollywood

    1941 Graham Hollywood master cylinder
  9. nickg112

    IMG 1100

    From the album: Graham Hollywood

    1941 Graham Hollywood master cylinder
  10. There is no best place to sell. My recommendation is to take some really good photos of all four sides, engine compartment, trunk, interior. You cannot take to many photos. Most Important: Set a fair price. Do not list and say "make an offer" . Know the value of your car. Search the internet and look for a similar car in similar condition. Remember that asking price is not the sale price. Comparing one car to another is like comparing apples and oranges. Be realistic. Research has to be more than seeing one sell at Barrett Jackson.
  11. I have a 1941 Graham Hollywood. It has sat for 20 years and has not been started. I am going through the car and preparing to start it. I have cleaned the gas tank, rebuilt fuel pump and cleaned fuel lines. I want to try starting the car but not sure if this is a positive ground car. Does anyone know for sure if this is a positive or negative ground car. Thank you
  12. Thank you for your help and suggestions. I have been working on another car and have not tried starting this car. Hopefully I will get back to it soon
  13. No, I have not gotten it started. Took a little break and started working on another car. Plan on getting back to this one soon. I did just get new points and have not tried that out yet
  14. Thanks for the response. I turned it over with a fully charged 6 volt battery. Thinking of using an 8 volt battery. I am going to check compression on all eight cylinders also. Does anyone know what the compression should be on this engine? How much compression is needed to start it?
  15. Thank you for the response. I am 100% certain that the timing is correct. Does anyone know what the compression should be on this engine?
  16. I am absolutely positive. I checked this out by pulling plug number one and putting my thumb over the hole. I get a pop at top dead center and it matches the flywheel
  17. I have a 1930 Auburn Cabriolet 8 cylinder car that has not run for many years. I am having problems starting the car. If anyone has any ideas on what I need to look for to get it to start, please advise. This is everything that I have done so far: 1) rebuilt my Schebler model S carburetor (updraft) 2) new Coil 3) Dual point distributor synchronized and checked out 4) Piston number 1 brought to top dead center and verified with mark on flywheel 1/8. I then went 3 teeth on the flywheel past top dead center with spark lever fully retarded per Auburn manual 5) Adjusted distributor until one set of points just begin to open 6) Pulled Spark plug #1 with distributor wire, shorted the plug on the side of the block and turned engine over. I am getting spark and as a double check, I put my finger over the spark plug hole. At the point that I felt a pop on my finger I saw a spark on the plug. 7) To assure that I do not have a fuel pump issue, I have an auxiliary fuel pump the goes from a gas can to the carburetor. 8) I also bypassed the ignition switch with a small on/off switch 9) New six volt battery 10) Verified that all 8 wires are in the appropriate order from the distributor 11) When I manually press the starter lever, the car cranks but does not fire. I have used starting fluid and also put a few drops of fuel down spark plug hole number 1. I do not get a pop or an explosion of any kind. It almost seems like the car is not anywhere near top dead center but I know it is. I am getting fuel and spark. What is missing and what should I try next? I appreciate any help.
  18. I have a question about the alternator on my 71 Jaguar E Type series 3 alternator. I have attached a couple of photos for clarification. I am not certain if ground wire "A" goes to terminal "B" or "C". It may currently be in the wrong location. As shown it is on the "B" terminal. Is this correct or should it be on "C" terminal? Thank you
  19. Year: 1979 Make: MG Model: MGB Price: No Reserve auction on eBay starting at $99 Description: 1979 MGB project, runs and drives great. Very complete car Location: Clinton Township, Michigan 48036 Contact Information: Nick,, 586-453-9316 EBAY URL:
  20. Check out this 1979 MGB selling at NO Reserve on eBay: 1979 MGB at NO Reserve on eBay Nice driver and project car
  21. Just listed a nice project 1979 MGB at NO Reserve on eBay. Check it out: 1979 MGB
  22. I appreciate the information. I have also been trying to find out what the ohm range of the factory sending unit is. I would like to compare this to my replacement unit since that is my only option. The dash gage test by shorting it out does not make much sense to me since I would only be testing full load at 6V. The gage shows good with this test but it does not show accuracy of the gage itself.
  23. I have checked out the gage as you described and it shows the gage is good. I did this same test on a 1941 Ford gage and it showed good. On my 41 I experienced the same problem and although the test showed good, the gage was bad. I replaced the gage and it fixed the problem. I really do not think that this is an accurate test. Can't buy another 36 gage so I may send it for repair. Thank you for the information