Beemon

There's a GTO by the Cadillac in the right side of the photo

So probably last update, but just wanted to mention this in case anyone finds this thread in a search. The book says to set base idle at 1 full revolution of the idle set screw, but after adjustment with a tachometer, I found the best setting to just be a 1/12th or so shy of 1/2 turns. I couldn't figure out why I kept leaving a cloud of black smoke on the slowest of take-offs. Now there's still a cloud, but it's very noticeable. I'm a bit ignorant with old cars when it comes to these things, but by trial and error I'm pretty sure there will always be some kind of rich cloud on take off just because of the accelerator pump's overrichening shot. Also, when I initially set the fast idle cam on the dining table, I set it for max fast idle (aka as far up on the fast idle step as possible), which is wrong. After waiting almost 15 minutes for the car to come off fast idle on a cold morning, I went and re-set it holding the fast idle came against the fast idle screw while it was off the steps, and repositioned the fast idle adjustment on the choke butterfly shaft so it is max open (aka, the fast idle screw furthest away from the first step of the cam). I thought my choke was misadjusted at first, but when I pulled the air cleaner, the choke was probably 80% open and it was still on the step of the cam. I have yet to test how quick it will open now on a cold start, but I'm hoping no more than 5 minutes because that's how long it takes to reach operating temperature. It's very important to set the fast idle cam like this when the choke is held fully open, so it doesn't bind otherwise. Anyways, I couldn't resist...

Is there a possible difference in valve height that would change the geometry of the rocker arms?

The nice thing about the 364 and up is that, in the event that you cannot find a carburetor anytime soon, any modern aftermarket carburetor will bolt up without an adapter. Might need a bit of toying, but other have had success with the Edelbrock 600cfm carb even on 322s.

That's my predicament currently. I cannot find a shop that will play with it the way I want them to, and my driveway is not leveled to attempt a home remedy (the street is also crowned and I don't think I'd have enough room). I finally talked Firestone into doing just the tie rods. After arguing with them for 15 minutes, it finally clicked that tie rod technology has not changed over the the years...

I don't recall there being goats in the 50s...

So I actually didn't go with the Autozone springs, I instead went with the NAPA springs - they're manufactured by Dana. The rear shocks also from NAPA are manufactured by Monroe. I really like how the car sits now, and I can experience that famous Buick ride (still not as good as a modern car, though ). Hopefully I won't have to do this again for another 30 years. (I did both sides on the street because it was more level than the driveway) For the record, I only dropped the socket wrench on my forehead once.

Intakes match as follows 264/322, 364, 401/425. So any 364 manifold should fit. Good luck with the carburetor!

There are measure points on the frame that can test the coil springs. Before I started my car, my uncle tore down the engine and put everything in the trunk. This saved the front springs but destroyed the rears as it sat for the next 30 years. When I got it back on the road, the fronts were in spec according to the shop manual but the rears... Anyways, I got some rear shocks to replace the air shocks in the back, too. They haven't held up very well and couldn't be happier to finally get rid of them.

So it turns out the dealers listed online were just corner store repair shops. Just suppliers... Anyways, I ordered a pair from Autozone for $102, which was comparable to RockAuto when factoring in shipping and tax. They'll be here tomorrow.

No, not literally, but it's what the publication summarizes to.

Oh no... we just had a thread on batteries that have the right cold cranking amps and fit in the original hold down... it was either a Group 31 tractor battery or a Group 60 vintage battery.

The solenoid runs the starter, so if you can't get it to at least throw out, then it's the solenoid. if it throws out the pinion into the fly wheel, then it's either the armature or the contacts on the end of the solenoid. If after replacing the solenoid and it doesn't spin but throws out the pinion, then it's the armature assembly. Starters are pretty simple and easy to diagnose. The solenoid switch is pretty expensive, but between it and the actual drive pinion, there's usually all that's wrong with the starter. It's very seldom the armature is bad. If you decide to take it apart, just polish the commutator with scotchbrite and install new brushes. The bendix is pretty hard to come by these days and the made in China over the counter ones are garbage. If your drive pinion clutch turns without making noise, then reuse it. Also because the Starter is barely used, your bushings should still be okay. You can check them with a dial indicator, but when I rebuilt my starter, I put the armature in the bushing and felt for play on the end of the shaft. Lastly, if the armature is damaged in any way, finding a NOS one will be extremely hard, but for a pretty penny you can have one re-wound so long as the core is mostly intact.

The Fel Pro gaskets are sold through NAPA. Just cut the tabs off with a razor.

If you can get under the car, jump the contacts on the solenoid to bench test it in the car. One contact will activate the throw out lever and the other will spin the motor with out activating the solenoid.

1956Century, good to know! There's a Moog dealer here in town.

You can get Les Schwab to powder coat the rims $25/ea. Just tell them you're buying tires later and then when you get them back, tell them you found some elsewhere...

Did you also change the gear on your distributor to the same material as the 56 cam, by chance? If I recall, one is forged and the other is cast and mixing them is recipe for disaster, as well.

When looking at the Daytona needle and seat, the only documentation available is a linear graph and a "trust us, it works". Hardly what I call convincing evidence. Leave the guess work in the package and go with what's proven to work over the last 70 years. Also I bring up the linear graph, because nothing in real life is ever linear. The best you can do is a stat plot, but they don't give you the experimental evidence to see just how much it varies, so you're left with what you can assume is a "line of best fit" to unknown data and a "trust us" statement.

$300+ for a pair of rear springs, not a full set. That's what I've found anyways.

So, which end attaches to the axle, the tight end or loose end?

You went with Heavy Duty springs on yours, right? Thanks for the link, everywhere else has wanted upwards of almost $300 with shipping. I started the topic because there's some springs on Ebay, but not for 56. I don't see why they would be different, but you never know... I'll give them a call tomorrow.

Do the rear springs interchange these years or are they all different? Just looking to keep my options open this year if I happen to come across some springs.

No the filtered breather area on the side.

Just reach in there and see if it squishes or not with your finger. If the pedal returns by itself under the spring force, it should be fine.