broker-len

good diaphragm holds a vacuum bobnroman@yahoo.com

This was originally produced by NAPA in the 30s was made available by ----CRANK AND HOPE PUBLICATIONS- and seemed to be a reproduction of the original--this a good copy of my book which is in black and white----as my original ----- bound in a cover----with more info added from my library in covers 31 to 37 Plymouth ---Cover says 36 but info for 37------- generator specs--valve measurements--engine clearances--setting up the third brush on generator and cutout--has a lube chart--spark plug settings--distributor set up--clutch-transmission pictures---rear end--section on brakes--setting up front end--and wiring diagrams--tons of pictures---added info on BB1 updraft carb----105 PAGE SIDES------E mail me for questions if you have one of these cars you will find this valuable -- -------BR

thanks again as stated it is hard enough to adjust with the manifold on and carb off I guess I could put everything on and run motor till hot then take off carb and valve cover and try to adjust before the block cools down my owner's manual does give cold setting but also suggests to adjust hot

Members 21 724 posts · #1 Posted 13 hours ago · Report post I have read on this forum to put the piston at TDC and adjust intake and exhaust others say to rotate motor till one valve begins to open and set the other and when it closes the other-------------I have a 31 plymouth-------------------looking for suggestions and why------------------thank you in advance

thank you all on this motor you have to remove the updraft carb to get to the valves hard to do it hot the head is on but a access plug over number 4 ------ the manual give a cold setting ----- I tried to use the TDC then both valves on each hole but the motor has no power every video on U tub uses the other way rotate motor till one valve on hole moves then adjust other on

I have read on this forum to put the piston at TDC and adjust intake and exhaust others say to rotate motor till one valve begins to open and set the other and when it closes the other-------------I have a 31 plymouth-------------------looking for suggestions and why------------------thank you in advance

thank you carb king---did not take butterfly off have had this carb for ever I think I used to drive with it before it was rebuilt with better success -----I will check it

Sir-----thanks for your response this motor was rebuilt checked valve settings, checked compression 60 in all holes checked timing and points condenser is newer,,,, checked for vacuum leak the plug wires are older but does not explain my problem the plugs are black and the idle screw does not seem to affect anything was told low coil out put could cause this kind of problem I have rebuild the BB1 a few times with a new bowl gasket I am not a professional but not a novice either since the BB1 is not original for car and I have a brass bowl will try that before I start putting money in a BB1 professional rebuild if I still have issues will try a different coil after that will make a planter out of the car

thank you all so much----------good advise I guess I can replace all the jets or get it professionally rebuilt but just don't want to spend the money when it is not the original carb and I do have one will try the brass bowl as soon as I have the time

thanks every 0ne-------for some reason I am getting a situation where the idle screw makes on difference will idle with it all the way in may be one of the jets is bad,,,, am rebuilding one of the brass bowl carbs that came standared am going to try it if still the same going to look at coil

THIS IS A VACUUM CONTROL FOR A PB PLYMOUTH PLEASE LOOK AT PICTURES DIAPHRAGM IS GOOD HOLDS A VACUUM WHEN SUCKING ON END ONE OF THE MOUNTING SCREWS MISSING --------------bobnroman@yahoo.com

Bought this finely engendered car !!!!!!! 2008 with 60000 miles it was a lease from dealer right out of the gate it started to burn oil a lot of oil quart in 1000miles should have taken back to dealer buy the time I got frustrated enough they told me it was normal 4 Qt crank case recommend oil change every 5000 miles------------------------RIGHT--------------------- heard there was a recall had it tested a few times was told it was within specks $$^&@$&^*^$-------my time for the last recall was running out so tried again----------------BINGO----------they rebuilt motor, pistons and rings and said I needed a water pump not covered and charged me $ 100.00 to put valve caps on-----OK-------a month ago, with 90000 miles, started to get rain water in the passenger floor the dealer had no idea why went on line all kind of ideas thought some one may benefit from what I found------if you take the windshield washer then plastic cowl cover off no screws just snaps under, on the passenger side vent tray another piece of HIGH QUALITY PLASTIC --take it off and you will see why it is leaking--------the cheapest, sponge rubber seal Toyota could find saved a few pennies ,,, when I looked I could see it just lost it's life got a piece of sponge rubber with adhesive at pep boys and fixed the problem there may be other reasons for leaking -------------------I wander, if the system goes another 50 years will my Rav be a high priced classic ? and the cheep plastic parts bringing big bucks on E bay

Bought this finely engendered car !!!!!!! 2008 with 60000 miles it was a lease from dealer right out of the gate it started to burn oil a lot of oil quart in 1000miles should have taken back to dealer buy the time I got frustrated enough they told me it was normal 4 Qt crank case recommend oil change every 5000 miles------------------------RIGHT--------------------- heard there was a recall had it tested a few times was told it was within specks $$^&@$&^*^$-------my time for the last recall was running out so tried again----------------BINGO----------they rebuilt motor, pistons and rings and said I needed a water pump not covered and charged me $ 100.00 to put valve caps on-----OK-------a month ago, with 90000 miles, started to get rain water in the passenger floor the dealer had no idea why went on line all kind of ideas thought some one may benefit from what I found------if you take the windshield washers off then plastic cowl cover off no screws just snaps under, on the passenger side vent tray another piece of HIGH QUALITY PLASTIC --take it off and you will see why it is leaking--------the cheapest, sponge rubber seal Toyota could find saved a few pennies ,,, when I looked I could see it just lost it's life got a piece of sponge rubber with adhesive at pep boys and fixed the problem there may be other reasons for leaking -------------------I wander, if the system goes another 50 years will my Rav be a high priced classic ? and the cheep plastic parts bringing big bucks on E bay

I have a 36 P2 Plymouth Acuff did my boards 20 years ago when the price was $ 400.00 rubber on original core Just an amazing job better than new

I do have one as picture at this point one crack in the bucket and some in the bezel also some buckets with out the mounting bolts am in NJ

this is a updraft with the main meetering adjustment under the bowl have rebuilt it a few times new bowl gasket checked the float tried a few needle and seats car runs and idles ruff the idle screw make no difference i in adjustment runs the same if it is all the way in running it on a 32 PA plymouth what do you think ?

Sorry capngrog,,,,,, thanks for trying it is frustrating had a quarter of an inch of water when it rains the water comes in with a heavy drip I already checked the AC and have used it with no water on rug went to dealer they have no idea checked Web a replaced windshield was mentioned mine is original DOES ANY ONE HAVE ANY IDEAS ?

RAIN WATER !!!!!!!------ONLY WHEN IT RAINS-----------NOT AIR CONDITIONER NO SUN ROOF

is there any one out there that has had a problem with rain water leaking into passenger compartment on early 2000 Rav ?????

looking for distributor cap 32 PA plymouth bobnroman@yahoo.com

any suggestions on how to find a possible vacuum leak on a older 4 cylinder motor I could squirt oil over and see if it is sucked in by it make a mess tried to use torch gas bet it did not make any difference in motor even when in the air intake

I have a book produced by NAPPA in 30s for sale but I am posting two pages on setting up the cut out and voltage Regulator for 31 ----37 Plymouth hope this helps in your restoration

I thought is was rich-------this is the carb with the adjustment under the bowl I run it fast idle then turn it in until it slows then back out-------maybe bad neidle and seat ?????