MikeC5

Seems like a good idea to me. I would just make very sure you prep the surface well so the stuff adheres.

Perhaps they recommend using an electric fuel pump and not even bothering to bolt on the vacuum tank....

That is a nice restro.... Whew! That was a tough read. The underneath shots show a secondary cover below the running boards. Are those supposed to be there? They will certainly need to find an uninformed buyer with a lot of extra cash and impulsive spending habits... What was it P.T. Barnum said?...

And it would be preferable to filter out any crud before it can get to the vacuum tank needle valve.

What body style is it? Keep in mind that mechanical parts like engine, transmission, rear end, wheels, radiator, suspension bits are much easier to source than body sheet metal (except for running boards/splash aprons @ Romar). You should be able to search out some assembled chassis photos and easily find photos of complete 1919 cars in the DB photo gallery. Patience is key here. Take a bunch of photos, post them here and we should be able to spot what is missing too.

I'm the same one who's been asking you for the top iron measurements. I don't have the top rests either.

Any chance you can get those measurements this weekend?

Good to hear that works in case points become really scarce.

My non-rebuilt, 40,000 mile (if I believe the odo) engine on my 25 does the same. Only after it has really warmed up does it drop a little. 4 psi doesn't sound like much but I suspect the volume/unit time would surprise you. I don't think there is much restriction on the oil flow (it's not being forced into tight clearance bearings based on what I've read- re-builders correct me if I'm wrong). I started mine one time with the oil pressure line disconnected by accident; boy did the oil **** out of the check valve fitting!

It could be water pump grease. If it's just a little bit I would just warm up the engine, shut it down and drain it after a few minutes.

Yes I did receive it Jason. There are a couple of spots on the top flange of the frame on the driver's side that can possibly use a doubler but overall it does look pretty good.

I see where the spring and ball would go in the cast piece. Anyone have a spare cable to sell?

Body off...

Thanks Tony, actually I do have the cast part that bolts up behind the dash; just no knob or cable. I will be going to Hershey in October and we have one of these on my list.

Anyone have a properly operating choke (mixture enrichment) cable? My car didn't come with one and I tried installing a generic choke cable. The problem is it has no way to lock in place. The spring on the carb just pulls it back. Maybe the cable needs some rust to work properly?

Great! Post some photos too.

Nice. I'm going to install safety glass on my windshield too.

Looks great! Did you have to tweak the door or do they usually fit that well (on the touring cars I've noticed they tend not to conform as well).

Nice looking car!

Here you go.

The video was very good. Looks like the irons and bows are in nice shape. If you can, I would still like to get a few measurements per my sketch. The dimensions are rivet/pivot center-to-center (straight line) or rivet center to end of metal socket. I would also be interested in any ideas on reproducing the top down clamp brackets. I hear they're hard to come by.

That would be great. It would be interesting to compare the color in natural light.

Thanks guys. That's a nice looking '19 there. It's important to know what you're looking for doesn't look like too. The big giveaway on the early irons is where the 3 socket attaches to the 4th; very close to the pivot bolt. On the 25 it's more than 1/2 way up. These photos show the detail I was talking about.

I don't have any yet. Here are a couple of photos from a 1925 car (assuming they are correct).

Sure looks like 20's DB to me.