paulrhd29nz

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Everything posted by paulrhd29nz

  1. I was brought home in a 1929 hudson Super Six in 1966. 44 years later, I am lucky enough to drive the Same car. Paul
  2. Otahuhu, Tell us more about the cast drums you had made up for you 29 olds. Were they for wires or wood spoke? Paul
  3. This photogragh need a much closer look!!! It is a 1919 to 21, 7 pas. phaeton with 1924ish 33''x 6.00 front tires and sure looks to me that the rears are smaller like 31''x 600 that came in around 27 or so, but could be the picture angle.... BUT it has the windsheild and frame work from a hudson limousine from the same era. All Hudson open cars had two piece windsheilds and if you look you can clearly see the frame work that is the same as their limos. Even the visor( that did not come on open cars) and brakets are from a limo. This picture needs to be looked at by someone from the hudsonclub that can verify this. Paul
  4. The old race car is a Christie. In 1906 they went to a V4 with capacity of 13 liters. then went to 20 liters!!! Could you imagin steering that thing. They claimed it went 120mph!!:eek: The great Barney Oldfield raced this thing. Paul
  5. Thank You!!! Thats exactly what I wanted to know. Thanks again, This form is GREAT Paul
  6. A mascot can not be limited to pre-war or early post-war cars or trucks for that matter. Case in point is the bull dog on a Mac truck or the ram on a Dodge. Is it a mascot or an emblem or an ornament?? For those two, I would have to say they are most deffently a mascot. A mascot to me is somthing that is Iconic, somthing to remember. Can any one come up with more so called mascots that are more modern and not just an emblem like SS, or an emblem like some trapazoid with a thing-ma-jig passing threw it. Paul
  7. Hi, Thanks for your input but I was wanting to find out if the plugs (D-23) were correct for the MOTOR, not the car. 23 seams to be a high number and I know that most plug numbers refer to temp. of the plug. These plugs have been in the car for 30+ years. Paul
  8. When set up properly, the three shoe brakes will stop you car very well. The set up is a slow and carfull prosses. It will take up to 8 solid hours just to set them up, but when done properly you will stop well!! The biggest draw back is the steel brake drums. They heat up and expand and your brakes fade and scare the bejesus out of you, But you will need to get to know how to use them. You do not just put your foot in it and keep pushing to slow down or stop. You must apply then back off, apply then back off ect. This alows the drum to stay cool and not expand to much. If you know how to use them the work realy well. If you have the key Brake components in your car, meaning the "in frame cross tubes and the front axel arms" the rest can be made up with some rod and clevis yokes. The parts manuall for my Hudsons has exelent exploded veiws of the brake system, with enough info to easly make up all the levers, arms,brackets and rods. If you find the set up on the front end to complex to recreate, put a front axel from a 29 on as most makes dropped the three shoe and went a simpler two shoe leaver opperated. Paul
  9. Hi all, I have a 25 Hudson that came with champion D-23s in it for plugs. All my other hudsons I run D17 or 18s in them. The 25 does not run great but have other issues to clean up first before I blame the plugs. I love the looks of these plugs on the car. the tall steel body looks sharp as the picture shows, but are they right?? Paul
  10. I thought I would post some pics I took from a Manley supply book that I have for fun. I would love to find one of these. Paul
  11. My dad and I have looked at doing this many times on some of our two wheel brake Hudsons to give some better braking on the front end. These cars weigh in at 3000 to 3500lbs. We always stop talking about when we look at the "tire contact suface area" and figure thats alot of work just to get atotal of about 10 square inches for both front tires of 40+ year old rubber to lock up on you with 3000lbs plus pushing you from behind:eek:!! But we still talk about it. In my mind The would have to only assist in stoping, they need to be a very very small set up. A hudson tire is a good size. Take the tire you want to stop and drop it on to a peice of white paper. Now look at what you are about to stop very effectivly. Any thing can be done, but will it work and be safe, and think about them 80+ year old wooden spokes. I joke with my dad and tell him we should put the Lockhesd brakes of my Norton Commando on cause they cant stop the bike worth a darn:D Paul
  12. First of I am new to this AACA site and I cant believe I have missed it all these years. I love what you guys talk about and follow most of the topics here with great interest. I have been a pre war car guy all my life thanks to my dad. When I see a car, a car no matter what the make, style or year, and if it is sooo shinny and sooo perfict in every way... I will walk right by it!!!!!! In my experiance, the " perfict restored car " was restored ( 9 out of 10 times) by someone other than the owner!!! meaning they got bucks and clean finger nails! I have a freind who, in the early 80's won the most sought after award by the jaguar club, west coast, "best restored". That car today has driven less than a mile since then!! Its to worth to much money. He did nothing but shell out the bucks. What a waste of a fun car. I am a total believer in "period correct" for the preservation of our wounderfull hobbie for future generations to show people" this was how they did it, But I am sad to say that most of the grand cars are, or have been restored for nothing but money and pride. When a car came from the factory it was ment for one thing..... DRIVE IT!!!!! Paul
  13. Can any one confirm that the Hudson form on "clasic car" web site has been hacked? My computer says its been hacked. Thanks Paul
  14. Post the pictures so we can all see. I love look'n at old motors!!!!
  15. paulrhd29nz

    1918 REO ???

    I'm no REO expert, but I have been told that REO trucks had iron crankcases and cars had alumin. crankcases. Paul
  16. Hi all I drive my 29 Hudson all the time all year long. The car was ment to be driven. The only mod I have done to it is a install a 47 hudson generator running off the fan belt for better nite driving. I got the car from my father. He bought it in New Zealand in 1965 and was his daily driver then. We moved to canada in the 70's and dad had the good scence to bring the car with us. Dad threw me the keys for it on my 25th birthday, thats 20yrs ago now. the car now has over 600,000 miles on it on one rebuild in the 70,s. My only wish is that tires were cheaper. The great thing about all this is that I was brought home from the hosital in the 29, so one could say that its been my regular driver form my hole life!!! How cool is that!!! Paul
  17. All I watch is old movies! The BEST EVER for old cars is Is John Waynes 1932 series called the "Hurricane Expess" . These were about 12, 20 min shorts that would play one at a time in theaters before the main show. There are dozens of car chases on gravel roads, all hard core, four wheel drifts with cadilacs, pearce arrows, marmons, hudsons. this was a low budjet film so no cars get wrecked. Lots of tommy guns, Steam trains, and airplanes as well. A must watch for 1920's open car guys!!!!!!!! Have fun, Paul
  18. Hi, I can't find you in the "gallery" to see the pics of the windshield??
  19. Hello, do you have any for a 29 hudson also need for a 28. Thanks Paul
  20. I have pics of the motor in the "what is it" titled " I.D. this old motor" It appears to be in good shape. I live in south wester B.C. Canada. Will be going to the S.F Bay area in the early spring to pick up a car, can deliver if along that route. I want to find a home for this engine. Paul 250-538-8331
  21. Hudson Super Six. No earlyer than 1918. Looks to be a 7 pass. Paul
  22. The only real reason for people in the know to go to a pump is because they are sick and tired of vapour lock. But this is only if you drive you car in moutian roads in high summer heat or realy long summer paraides. There is nothing worse than grinding up a step grade in 2nd gear for 20 minutes with the sumit in sit then blaaaah.. dead. My Dad and I have many pre 29 hudsons and all run great on vacum. I have wanted to put in a duel system on my 29 having vacum for normall operation, then when needed reach under the seat turn a brass valve,flick on a switch hiden under the dash and away I go, under pressure. It would be like switching from duel fuel tanks in my old 65 ford truck. To reduce the pressure from radial dial pressure gadge put a inline washer with a small hole in it before the carb( this takes a bit of playing with) Paul
  23. You guys are good!!! A quick google search of 1916 REO came up with many pics showing this same motor I thank you, now I can look to find a good home for it. any one interested? I live in the south west of British Columbia Canada. Paul
  24. Yes the block is cast iron. There is no prvision for a starter on this, it is hand crank only? The clutch is bolted right on the flywheel and looks like a dry multi plate but is very small for a truck?? All the REO's trucks that I refferanced seamed to have a starter. Paul
  25. I've had this old motor for years. It was used as a gen. light plant and the gen. was mounted where the missing jug is. It has a pressure fed/drip crank to the 3 mains. the timming case and water pump housing are alumn. The oil pump is plunger, running of the cam. The engine number on the left mount is A82760. What parts that have a number on them all have the letter "T" in the code ie. 1T28, 3T38, 5T54 ect. I need to make room for my next project and would love to see this go to a well needed home. Thanks Paul