paulrhd29nz

Verd, What your looking at,(based on photo's) Is what I call a 5 gallon restoration. So for practical purposes, lets assume the worst, and what we see is what you get, and for dollar reasons lets assume that all the needed work will be done by others. -Missing parts== $2000 -wield in spare tire well's and re-paint front fenders== $1000 -new brakes and set up== $1000 - machine new kingpins and install== $500 - replace all rubber parts & weather stripping $1000 - new crome== $5000 -new interior == $5000 -new top=== $3000 -Re build motor== $5000 Total comes to $23,000, I alwasys under estimate this stuff because we do all our own work, so lets just round it up to 30k. now add purchase price and two or three years of your time. I would only pay 2 to 3k. If what you want to do is to restore a 29 Hudson, then this is your car. If you just want to own one and drive it, then this is not your car. 8$ to 15k will get you a good driver in todays market for these cars. Just my two cents. Good luck, Its a very nice looking car. If you have any questions about it, please feel free to ask.

Whats the motor?

Looking foward to the pictures. In your first post, you called it a 2 door, ( coach ) now we have dual side mounts on a touring sedan Hmmm. Posting pictures here can be frustraiting.

Verd, what Jon37 said is spot on. By your description 2k max maybe a little more. If you realy want a hudson take your time and look around ( 28/29 is the best ever made by the way) Believe me, there are deals to be had big time. 12k should get you a very nice driver. Older Hudsons have half the value of the cars you have listed that you alredy own, as there is a very small market for fans of Hudson cars. Do you research so you don't over pay.

That 29 Hudson has very different wire wheels on it, and the bumper medallions are different as well, Looks to me that car coming out of the cross street, heading left, is a 28 hudson.

Try asking on this group form [h=2]RacingHistory[/h]<CENTER>RacingHistory : RacingHistory The Golden Era (1900-1969) of American Open-Wheel, Oval Track Racing </CENTER>

Looks like you have heavy Iron in your water. When you fix it, keep lots of antifreeze in it. If your shaft is new and you can get your gland nuts off and loose, you will need to repack the seal. Use the teflon/ Grafit impregnated water pump packing. As far as the lower pipe being rotten, you are just going to have to carefully clean it up. Try some Rust Remover/descaler that does not attack aluminum. If you are lucky, you will be able to add a longer piece of hose to the rad that will cover up any failure in the lower pipe. Failing all the above, find a Latter model water pump that is brass.

Are you talking about breaking the cast Iron goose neck at the bottom header tank? Is your water pump aluminum or brass? Like Jon37 asked, how pitted is the shaft? when the last time you re-packed the pump and what did you re-pack it with?

Can you not just remove the screws and replace with drive rivets? they are taperd rivets you drive in with a hammer. have done this a few times.

This is what I would like to know. Its a 4x4 with an over drive only on the rear. The poor kid has already blown the rear dif. costing him $3500. ( he didn't tell me he blew it out. ) Im trying to see if there is a switch in the transfer case. The overdrive solnoid is hooked up to a relay but the wireing is so bad its hard to trace. Today was our first day at it.

Need some help here guys. My nephew bought himself a jeep truck and it needs a lot of sorting out. I need to know who to ask and where to get things like floor pans, wireing harness, window track and molding, ect. I have only been able to find one place on line and that is BJ Offroad. It has a AMC 327 with danna 45 front and rear axles with overdrive. The number on the overdrive is" R10B1E" Do any of you know what make that is? Borg & Warner im guessing? Any help or leads would be great Thanks Paul

Nice truck . I'm no Chevy guy, but your motor is still a splasher( dippers). The pump is used to get the oil from the sump to the troughs and top end. The pressure fed didn't come in till 52 or 53, I think. Trucks were first. This is not a fix but have you tried double clutching when shifting? Good luck.

Pictures please. And who made the body?

Here's what I've seen today at our nationals

Very nice looking indeed. Can you please tell us what that W 12 block is on the floor right by your fan blade?

Other Makes Custom Body ON Franklin Chassis Basic | eBay Here is another one for us to look at. Wire wheels are nice, fenders and aft of the rear seat...??? This one is $80,000 less than the Packard I posted a while back. Same messed up, wind blown hair, bugs in teeth and big grin.

The Hudson is a 1920 or 21 seven passenger sedan. It is near impossible to tell early Hudson years appart

Holly Molly!! Digest your breakfast first before you watch that one. I kept looking for Karl Malden and Mike Douglas.

If it has not ran for a long time, It my be the float level is incorrect for modern gas. Is it running rich or lean? Are you using the original vacum tank or an electric fuel pump?

You can still buy your tires new. Try Lester Tire. or Coker Tire, all made new.

I have had a good lesson on this over on a Hudson form ( not aaca) you need to match the tire to the rim width, not tire width, meaning if you get the metric equivalent of a 7.00 tubless tire, it will have the possibility to roll of the rim under harsh conditions. Get a tire to match your rim. I am doing this for my new 46 Hudson truck and it's on 6.50x16. I should hear back from my tire guy today, he is giving me three options. I will report what he recomends for me.

Saw this this morning on ebay Packard Speedster 526 Sedan Speedster | eBay Starting bid near $100,000. What would you rather do? Spend the coin and drive it home? Or have a $100,000 grand and build your own. Packard or no Packard, give me a $100,000 and I'd build one, Plus the needed addition to my garadge. Cool looking car though.

Jeff Is the Master. He is away and off line till after the HET nationals. (end of July) Tristan, trust me, there are Pleanty of Essex/Hudson nuts in aussy. You just got to find them.

That Is a very Flawed statment! Treat it right, and it will last for ever. Set your oil pump controll on maxim stroke and leave it there. Make sure you know what your doing and do your best to understand how the oil splash system works. If you understand it, it will lead to proper maintenance and correct first time start up on new bearings.

How bad are your wheels? I would investigate a bit before spending the big bucks. You could spend up to $1000 a wheel. Talk to a studebaker guy and see what year of wheels will fit your 27 and start asking and looking.