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Thanks. I read one report of fires with a Rayfield carb but I figure any carb that leaks gas is subject to fires.

Thank you Frank, this is what I was assuming took place Can I ask, is your Rayfied a model G or L? Mine has the lever but it is of a different design.

Grimy, YOU ARE A GODSEND! I really appreciate this! Blessings on you my friend! I would like to have a picture of the dash control when you get a chance. The choke control is a lever that would take a rod, so not your normal choke control. I'm assuming there is a series of linkages involved.

I'm sorry. We were talking about gunboats and Riker's car and Passey's car and I got confused and misspoke. I was referencing the tail end of Passey's car.

Grimy, no hurry, but how does the carb perform in your 6-66?

I noticed on the gunboats (the Riker car specifically)the tail does not taper down to a point, but stays up about 6". Also the bottom lateral line seems to set in slightly from the top line with the nose of the tail over reaching the base just a tad. If you adapted this styling, it would make the tail appear longer. Your design is growing on me and I see your reasoning. By 1915, all race/speedsters had adopted the closed car look and the open car Mercer look was outdated. I believe lengthening the tail would improve the look, even if it was just aesthetics. And, thank you for your kind words. It is hard to offer honest opinions but I believe one honest opinion is worth ten thousand yes men who will agree with whatever you say. What is it the bible says; there is safety in the multitude of council. Concerning the Rayfield question, I posted the question in the technical thread and Grimy posted a response. The lever on the side of the carb, which doesn't appear to do anything, somehow floods the carb for starting. My race car had one on it but I was told it was overly complicated so I opted for a different carb, but now I wonder if I should switch back. The Rayfield was the original setup and the car was raced well past 1928. It must have been pretty good. By 1928, there were lots of great choices.

Does anybody here have experience with a Rayfield model G carburetor? It was touted as a great race car carburetor in a 1915 Rayfield ad and of course its virtues were highly praised. I'm wondering how good they really are and also, having one, I can see no provision for choke. Can someone explain how to choke it? Or, is it necessary?

I'd like to revisit the Rayfield model G carb. Does anybody have experience with this carburetor? Is it a stock Locomobile item? This particular carburetor has no provision for a choke that I can see; can anybody tell me the starting procedure?

Read over this thread. Back at the beginning are pictures of the data plate and their location has been described at least twice.

Walt, I never met Austin and only know him through you so you are keeping Him alive through your posts. However, I find your statement about the 29 Lincoln dual cowl intriguing. I have a friend who has the sister to that car. There were very few made. Do you know who has His Lincoln now?

If the wife is threatening to sale at scrap price, ask the owner what it would take to buy it. It's a shame someone on here couldn't give a base price for a car such as this. I would think 7-9 thousand would be a good price for the car. There are a lot of unknowns but a 30s model Bentley roadster should be worth that day in and day out. The car looks to be in good condition from what I see. The motor may be stuck but how hard would it be to get it loose. I suspect the transmission, drive shaft and rear end are fine. I suspect as has been stated, the op is scared of being beat out by someone more experienced swooping in and buying the car out from under him. Perhaps he needs to stick with his original interest of the Shelby. It is likely he knows more about the value of that car. The owner may be holding out on the Shelby until he sales the Bentley, The Shelby will be a much easier sale.

Look, it's just my opinion, but I believe you have shortened your frame too much to build a gunboat style body on it. The bodies designed for Locomobile took into account the length of the frame. You're trying to shorten that body style and again, it's just my opinion, but it's not working. I think you would be better off with the Mercer style you started with or some variation. Again, I think the Locomobile roadsters look good because of the length of the frame, not in spite of it.

Now this is a Locomobile, dubbed Casey Jones by its promoter. Photo from Los Angeles Times.

I'll add this one from the same website. Waldemar Grant Hansen, a machinist by trade, developed metal machining techniques and provided engine parts for the Tourist Automobile Company of Los Angeles. He regularly tested his machines on the apricot orchard roads in and around Pasadena and Altadena, eventually leading to the Pasadena/Altadena Hill Climb events of 1906-1909.

Metro, what is this? Do you have any other info? I see a large chain drive car with straight pipe exhaust from a T head motor. Could be Loco but I'm not sure. It has the deep dish front axle . Funny, the driver seems to have a pipe in his mouth. The seat looks like it might be off a fire truck. "Barney Oldfield aboard a Stearns racer at the Pasadena-Altadena Hill Climb in 1908. He finished second twice in four years at the annual event up along what later gained fame as Christmas Tree Lane." That explains the looks of a pipe in the driver's mouth. Barney Oldfield always had a cigar there.

It is truly remarkable that old cars such as this are still laying around in the weeds. Granted it is missing a lot of parts.

Look like windshield center parts

The front axle has the big dip usually seen on Locomobiles, though other makes used it as well. The rear of the frame looks 1914ish, 3/4 eliptical springs. The rear axle has a transmission case (transaxle) attached. Everette and Studebaker are two makes that come to mind. I do not believe the front wheels are original to the axle. Beyond that, I cannot help. After a bit of research, I'd have to agree with Layden. I believe it is 1914 Willis Overland.

Looks like a diverter for water to a heater core. Some cars had front a back heaters and this diverter could direct all the water to the rear heater or mix front and back or direct all to the front core.

Leif, I have one latch that appears to be a direct match and two others that are somewhat smaller. I was trying to deal with Michael Stevens per your recommendations but the guy in Sweden has not responded as to whether he wants it or not.

I can't say that I recognize them, I don't, but they appear to be from a mid teens vehicle. I would say don't be quick to scrap them. You might offer them for sale cheap on facebook marketplace. You could get more than scrap price and let someone else haul them off for you.

You can make a solution out of Molasses and water that will take the rust off those parts. It would take several days soaking to get all the rust off. The large parts in your last pictures are door hinges.

The numbers you noticed are likely part numbers. They identify each individual part, correlated by a parts book, whereby a owner/repair shop, could order replacement parts. Because of the rarity of the Westcott, I'm not sure you would ever find a parts book for this car. I believe the aluminum kick plates on the mud guard will finally pin down a year. It appears I was wrong about the 1915 year of the car and it now looks to be late teens to early 20s. The picture of the 23, posted above by Dr Watson, shows the kick plates, while several other pictures of other years do not show kick plates so the chassis is likely a 1923. All this being said, it appears the Westcott was what is sometimes referred to as an assembled car, not to be confused with all cars are assembled. Westcott brought in parts from suppliers as opposed to making their own. This would make a restoration somewhat easier. The Westcott used continental 6 cylinder engines through several years and if they did in 1923, assuming this car is 23, finding a 1923 continental motor would be much easier than find a Westcott motor. Plus, some car companies used the same motor through several years. Velie used the Continental 7R motor from 1920-1922. The chassis has a Timkin rear axle and usually the same maker supplied the front axle and wheel hubs all the way around. Unless you have found more, the chassis needs three more hubs but being they are Timkin, not impossible to find. It has been an interesting thread and an exciting ride. I know you have had a lot of fun digging all the parts out!

I sent a picture to Michael.

It looks like Westcott used Continental motors during the years of this frame, so you'd probably be looking for a 7R Red Seal. I have an oil gauge off one of these motors. I wonder how many parts could be located from this thread?