Gunsmoke

That's interesting K31. I would be happy with a repo (if this is such) or original, as long as it was Chrysler badged and fit hole size. Would also be OK 2 slightly different ones , a pair for driver's side and another pair for passenger side if need be. At this point I want to fill the holes and as time passes would keeping looking for full original set. BTW, this one I show is very well made, seems to be galvanized steel (no signs of rust), it is heavy and in pretty nice original condition for 85 years old. \

I have a single Chrysler hubcap as shown (year/model unknown), looking for a full set for the steel artillary style wheels shown (from unknown make/model) which have a 6&5/8" hubcap hole opening. The cap shown fits perfectly, and is 7.3"OD and 6.55" ID along with spring loaded clips. Will consider hubcaps in any restorable condition as I will likely restore them. I will also buy singles if a set is not available. Car shown is a '36 Chrysler Airstream which has similar looking wheels, not sure if those hubcaps are similar dimensions. I will also consider any Chrysler hubcaps that fit 6&5/8" opening.

Looking to find 4 of these early 1930's Chrysler hubcaps, measure 7.35" OD, 6.55" inner ring, if anyone can tell me year and model I'll be "forever in your stead". Have this one, 3 more at least needed, any condition at this stage. They are a perfect fit in the steel artillary style wheels I have which are from an unknown car (perhaps 35/36 Auburn or '36 Chrysler Airstream shown), and have 6&5/8" opening for hubcap. I will post a wanted ad in buy/sell.

The 1930 Dodge DC8 (2&7/8" bore) and the 1931Dodge DG8 (3" bore) (and DeSoto etc) shared the virtually identical 8 cylinderblock and other engine components as the first series 1931 Chrysler CD8(3" bore), the 2nd series CD8(3.125" bore), and finally the Deluxe CD8(3.25" bore). I understand these engines can all use the same late '31 head gasket. All engines have the distributor on left side (angled and in-line with oil pump). Only the Chrysler Imperial CG8 with it's much larger 9 bearing engine (3.5" bore) uses the distributor through the head. So for Hades benefit, if Distributor is vertical through head, engine is likely Chrysler Imperial. If Distributor is at left side and angled, engine could be 1930 or later Dodge/Desoto/Chrysler. Bore size can refine just what year or series if you cannot find lettering or stampings.

Just ran the 10 minute film. Body of white car looks like 1931 Chrysler CD8 Roadster, bigger car than the rest of them racing, very interesting film footage from 1948, first part is motorcycles, car racing starts at about 7 minute mark. You can stop film and move curser to 7:27 second mark and with film stopped see the white Chrysler car in question. Hade; The Chrysler CD8 engines had typically 3", 3.125" and 3.25" cylinder bore (depending on whether they were 1st, 2nd, or 3rd series), and 5 main bearings, total displacement from 240CI to 284CI. The 1931 Chrysler Imperial CQ8 Roadster engine had 3.5" bore and about 385CI displacement, a more powerful engine. Some pictures of the car you are speaking of as it exists today would be helpful. It is possible thye entrant was a CD8 Roadsterv with an Imperial Straight 8 engine installed, not an easy feat as Imperial engine was likely 3-4 inches longer.

good suggestion, I'll look for one of those as well. If I find a horn assembly with the light switch I'll use it as well, just may not make the switch operational.

Thanks SH and TM. I have the pre-'34 Parts book and it shows the diagram for setup for a 1930 model 66 (aka CC). I do not plan to bother with throttle or light switch levers on wheel (all of these guts are missing from my assembly), will use traditional dash mounted pull cable for throttle, and dash mounted light switch. However I will need a horn assembly, so if anyone has something that would work for this steering wheel, please let me know.

I have this very good steering assembly which I believe is for a 1931/32 straight 8 Chrysler, perhaps Deluxe CD8, CQ, or CP etc. Column is 1&3/4" diameter (early series CD8's were 1.5" dia), suggesting for CD8 Deluxe model or later car. Column is 45.5" long. Purchased this for my CD8 Roadster, but does not fit. Any interest above $250 plus shipping considered.

I'm rebuilding a '31 Chrysler CD8 roadster and among things I'm planning to use the steering wheel pictured here and in the car as mounted on a Dodge DC8 column. Based on my search of internet, it appears this wheel is from a 1930 Chrysler 66, as per photo of interior of an RHD car shown. Can someone confirm? Also, if so, can someone advise how horn setup worked, I'm assuming the steering column nut held on some form of clip which held horn mechanism in place? Finally, does any one have such a horn for sale??

Hi Wayne: I purchased the steering assembly for $250US thinking it would fit my 2nd series CD8, but it appears the Deluxe CD had different steering, So it does not fit my car. i live in Nova Scotia Canada, would be satisfied getting my money back plus shipping, which might be problematic, it is long and heavy. I'll be posting pics of it in the buy sell soon. No other CD8 parts available, looking for some myself!

Not meaning to hijack this thread Al, but I have a '31 Deluxe CD8 steering column and box (at least I think it is), 1&3/4" diameter column jacket, heavy duty box etc. Am planning on listing it on eBay or this site soon. Let me know if it is of interest to you.

Isn't that always the question, what's it worth. My humble opinion: A bargain hunter will offer $5K and settle for $7K. A cautious seller will ask $20K and settle for $15K. A motivated seller and a motivated buyer will land somewhere in the middle would be my bet, between $9K and 12K. If car is in a good market area, value will be higher. More pictures showing general condition underneath and of interior would allow a better estimate.

Sound too good to be true? My local KIJIJI (Nova Scotia, Canada) site currently has this likely rare car for sale for $800 Canadian (about $600US), not a lot left I gather as the photo shows, but I don't imagine there are many of these still being unearthed. Likely someone out there who would love a donor car.

Thanks TM, I'll check out a dealer for these in my area. Interestingly, the notes indicate the speedometer is 3" diameter, which would be ideal, but proportionaly from the image, it appears closer to 4" diameter. I'll have to contact the company for clarification. Several companies make this combination with white face, I like the idea of beige/off white, looks more vintage.

Checkeds a couple of large junk/salvage yards today, nothing. They for the most part only have cars and parts from past 20 years, only dash stuff they have are typical electronic clusters, nothing with individual gauges anymore. I will for now browse eBay for what I need. Problem with buying one at a time is trying to get stuff that matches. Some sellers list their gauges as 2", or 2&1/16" and 2&1/8", and I don't know if those are hole size, overall diameter, or what. So I guess I'll have to ask each seller a question. Does anyone know if all SW gauges of this general size were the same dimensions, i.e. the ammeter I have is for a 2" hole, and about 2&3/16" overall diameter.

Taylormade, you probably meant to include a directive to a supplier? I see several companies that sell sets of 5 white faced gauges for circa $500-$600, not sure if any are suited to 6V system. If I don't have any luck finding good vintage 6 volts ones, then I will contact them regarding what they have. I do have a 2" NOS 6V fuel gauge and 2" ammeter that match (both are SW), and may simply keep looking for a matching oil and temp gauge (they don't need electronics), and a 3"+ speedometer. These are black faced, but I can always put new white face decals I guess if I want the same original look. My car was so far from original when I got it that I'm not going to be fussy about every detail in rebuilding, will complete dash as original layout, but if gauges are black faced and slightly different diameters, that will have to do I guess. I am going to a local scrap yard tomorrow to see if they have a large box of gauges stripped from cars. I see a full set on eBay over the weekend, pulled out of a 1968 Chevy Nova, complete with the dash housing, virtually identical to what I need. Was tempted to buy it and go from there.

My 1931 Chrysler CD8 Roadster barnfind had been stripped of its dash, including all the dash munted equipment in the 50's and 60's. I have constructed asuitable dash matching the original design, and am looking for either a set of original dash instruments, or alternatively, advice on where to find a suitable modern set of gauges. Components must work with a 6 volt system. The pictures show an original factory photo of dash as well as the dash I have made for the car. I await making holes in dash until I have settled on instrumentation. The missing pieces are approximately 2" gauges for Fuel, Ammeter, Oil Pressure, and Temperature, and a 3" Speedometer, all in white face (I may settle on black face if necessary). Sizes mentioned are approximate, original gauges may have been slightly smaller. In addition, there were 2 chrome or nickle plated dash lights and an igintion switch. Finally there were 2 pull cables for throttle and choke. If anyone has a possible usable set of gauges or lights, let me know. If anyone has advice on 6V alternatives (Stewart Warner for example) available in the market place, let me know. Same for dash lights. I would like to get the holes cut for these pieces before I weld dash in place.

1930 Chrysler 70 Royal Coupe. Google "1930 Dash" and scroll through the images and you will see this inset in a white dash. Fancy.

Not avery helpful title, can it be changed to "Pre '34 Chrysler Master Parts List" so people like me won't keep opening it to see what it is? Just a suggestion.

Other than a RRer, I don't know any one who would take a car like this on, likely a $50k effort to restore, minimum $30K to a good driver and with a $20K resale price. So sad, but at least a RRer would save the body which may otherwise be headed to a crusher. Anyone need a donor.

I perused their inventory, nothing much Chrysler related that I could see.

Taylormade, the seat (I got it from Rob Burchill in Maryland (vintchry)) was marked on the back as being from a '32 Dodge Coupe, and as such would have been quite different from the sedan, not finished on back, etc. Turns out it was a great find for my needs.

I see a couple of Ford YF's from 68-70 300CID NOS available on eBay, about $250, do these mate to Chrysler8/Dodge8 intake bolt holes and require only moderate adjustment to Chrysler accelerator linkage setup? Will likely buy one today, anxious to sort this issue out. Rebuildable original equipment in good condition as you know go for circa $500, and might push $800-$1000+ rebuilt including shipping+++. Thanks you have been of great help

CarbKing, I have a '31 Chrysler CD8 Roadster I'm currently gathering pieces for. I recently found a Deluxe CD8 Engine with pistons 60 thou oversized (about 290CI). Do you have a carb in useable decent condition for this engine displacement? What model would be best to hunt for assuming I am not fussy about slavish originality. For example my '31 Chevy Coach now has a NOS Tillotson updraft replacing the original Carter RJH 08 updraft equipment, works perfectly, and no one much notices, even air filter fits nicely (see photo during restoration in 2012). Did Tillotson, or other aftermarket companies make carbs for the Chrysler 8's? (Purists please forgive me, these items can always be returned to original).

I wish I had your problem! A seat and speedometer should be able to be found (if not, a close to suitable white faced electronic 3" reproduction are available if you are not a purist). Points, plugs, and other engine electronics are available. I recently got a seat from a '32 Dodge Coupe (thanks to Rob) and modified it slightly to suit my roadster. The seatback and bottom fit nicely, both will be fixed in place with no adjustment. The coupe side supports had to be removed as well as the bottom wood frame, and the wood back support reduced in width slightly. Top of wood back also had to be reshaped to follow curve of rear deck. All will be covered with leather (salvaged from an excellent used sofa, nice patina). The Roadster originally I understand had a fixed bottom bench and a split back with driver side adjustable, but I am not planning on doing that, does not seem necessary. Will be " one size fits all". As for a top bow, these cab be easily made with a steam box, I will be making 2 for my roadster if I decide to put a top on car. Current plan is to finish as a fully open car, used primarily in good weather, may make a tonneau cover. Good luck with your decision, these are finely made cars.