Gunsmoke

Thanks, but as indicated, have decided to go with the ones I have which I think would have used steel links to axle/spring plate.

I've decided to use the 4" shocks I have as pictured above, will just have to change mounting location to rear of fender brace. Chrysler built 3 series of CD8's in 1930/31, and freely changed components for each one! As far as I know, the shocks I have were used on the CD* (Deluxe) Model, the last of the 3 series, and which had a wide array of differences from the 1st/2nd series, making parts searching very difficult. Even the pre '34 Parts list does not have a listing for CD8 shocks? at least not that I found. Cheers.

K31, previously checked them out, don't see they have anything other than abiliy to perhaps service cores. I may give them a call to see if they may know just what shock I need.

Looking for a pair of restorable front shocks for early series Chrysler CD8. Pictured is a later series shock showing holes at 4" center. This type mounted further to the rear, opposite front engine mount. Shocks for my car mount in forward location shown on chassis diagram, and have holes at 3"CC. I don't have a part# or other means of describing them, not sure if single or double acting, I note Dodge and Plymouth of period used shocks with 3"CC. If anyone can give me a specific Delco/Lovejoy number or Chrysler part# please do.

Still have the front shocks, and are bolt holes at 3"CC, I'm looking for ones suitable for '31 Chrysler which had 3"CC. send me a Pm.

I'm not sure if this site has a Moderator/Censor, other sites I am member of (VCCA for example) do, and would delete the recent posting from G&U as being improper, even if it is supposedly relaying hearsay. When sites deteriorate into an unbalanced "complaints department", viewers soon lose interest.

Thanks Rusty for solving this vexing puzzle. I've now looked at Ford Anglia and it's forerunner the Ford 7Y images 1937/38 thru 1954 and see most wore this type wheel (12 slots etc). This also explains why one of the wheels has a "Made in England" tyre! I understand these models began import into North America shortly after WWII, so wheels are likely circa 1950. Thanks again.

Found a set of 5 - 16" wheels that appear early Volkswagen, one has a 5-16 Goodyear tire (made in England) mounted. Rims measure 4.25" outside, appear about 3.2" inside bead, 5 bolt at 8" centers. Rims have 12 slots, and outer ring is riveted on (most I have seen are welded). Would take a hubcap with a 9.5" inner ring, a 10" hubcap I have will not fit, too large. Local VW guys are a bit stumped. Some thought they might be very early, or Porsche, perhaps for trucks etc. Any ideas? Would like to find a buyer.

Wow, seems to me like a lot of trash talk over a misunderstanding/oversight for a minor part. I have purchased many items from AmericanVintageParts (same guys?) over eBay with super service, great communications, and excellent shipping and pricing. There are not a lot of suppliers for old car parts, and I think we need to be careful in bashing them for small stuff!

Still looking for '31 Chrysler CD8 oil gauge (2" dia bezel), 2&5/8" dia speedometer (actually 3" speedo guts with 2&5/8" bezel), 2 dash lights, couple of hood hooks and hubcaps. Watcha got, I have a friend gonig to Hershey who could bring back an order. Cheers.

A friend of mine afew weks ago tuned up his '59 Jaguar himself, including new plugs, wires, etc. Warmed car up, took it for a spin, got about 100 yards, car misfired and conked out. Would not start. Towed to the local European car specialist, who took 5 minutes to sort the problem. Owner had installed incorrectly rated spark plugs. Proper plugs were installed, car works perfectly. So, you may want to confirm the plugs are properly rated for your installation.

The sad reality is for virtually every "common" old car (in condition like this or even in better condition), even if you can get them for $0, the likelyhood of recovering anything close to ones parts, material and labour costs for restoration are slim. The only ones who seem to know this truism are those who have restored a car. So lets just accept it as a wonderful hobby where the payback is the personal satisfaction one gets from (a) doing the work, (b) saving an old car from a worse fate, (c) enjoying owning and driving them and (d) the admiration of fellow car guys who have the same sickness! Well worth the "on paper" loss!

I have this windshield to sell, which former owner indicated it came off a '27 Ford Roadster. However, it appears Fords had a metal separator beteween the glass, and wing/clamping nuts on outside of stanchions. This one has such wing nuts facing the rear. Glass is about 39" wide, suggesting a large car. Any idea what it may be from?

28C, did you mean the H in engine # means Model 60?

Great resource K31. Per-chance # is yy968WWW, then chart would make it a Model 60 of June 1926. So I guess I'll have to take a much closer look next time I'm out there, these first letters were intermingled with the Chrysler name/logo, if I knew they were the crucial bits, I would have taken a flashlight for a close look, or the camera. Anyway, thanks for the great chart, should make it easy from hereon.

Perhaps the letters on dash plate were WY 968 WWW? That sound better? They were a little tricky to read without a flashlight in a dark space. Gent lives 25 miles from here, so won't be back there for a while.

Was by his place today. Engine is stamped H 17133. Crankcase casting # CWG 56529-3. Fisher Body plate on cowl has Job # 6940 and Body # 6769. There is a seperate plate indicating Chrysler Corporation Detroit Michigan. On the dash, the 3/4"x3" plate has the Chrysler seal logo, Chrysler spelled out, and above/below Chrysler appears to be YYY NINE SIX EIGHT WWW (Y-968-W?). This suggests an early Chrysler 70 model? Model 70 production ran from 1925-1927, starting at serial # WY-580-W to PS-287-D. Anyway, let me know if this pins down the car.

dpcdfan, I see the mate for your CD Coupe for sale on Hemmings Daily Blog, 31K, looks like very nicely restored car. Nice buy for someone, likely a lot less expense than restoring one!

Good to know you have everything, regardless of the condition of the parts. My Roadster was missing at least 50% of its original parts, making for a real difficult rebuild. As for the "wood roofed coupe", I helped a friend over the past 2 years rebuild his '27 Pontiac Landau Coupe, which was constructed much like your CD8, but most of the roof wood was completely missing, and no plans/patterns available. We used pictures and some photos from a Fisher Body Service Manual to figure out what may have been there, and finished it off. Car is seen this summer at local show with my restored and soon to be painted '31 Chevrolet Deluxe Coach

Thanks for details on hubcaps. I gather all of these hubcaps are hard to find in any condition. Let me know if you have some spares. As for the CD8 coupe, that will make a nice restoration project, don't imagine there are many still around. Appears roof has been mangled? Or was it initially framed in wood? Do you have all the missing parts?

I found a pair of rough but scarce Chrysler Eight hubcaps this past week, looking for 2 more (or a set of 4), they are as shown in photo, inside ring is about 6.5" for a 6&9/16" opening in wire wheel. At this point I'm less concerned about overall condition, so let me know if you have something. 3rd hubcap shown is apparently an aftermarket one which also fits in 6&9/16" opening, if anyone has any of these let me know. Rebuilding a '31 CD8 Roadster. Also does anyone know what color script was, black, red? I painted these myself yesterday just to see what they would look like.

Can't help with misfire issue, but thought Chrysler Royal fans might enjoy seeing a picture of my Dad's '37 Chrysler Royal taken in about 1945/46, around the time I was born. Seems he got stuck in the mud on a Sunday drive, and was using all means possible to get unstuck. Jack seems to be helping along with a shovel. I'm sure the air was blue that day. Don't know what to say about that "upside down" bumper from another car,

A friend of mine, who is not into computer tech, internet etc, has had a mutual friend list his 1926 Chrysler 4dr Sedan on "kijiji" in St John, New Brunswick, Canada. The car is a 6 cyl model, nicely restored about 12 years ago and stored since, runs nicely, excellent paint, chrome, interior etc. Anyone interested can check out the kijiji site. Perhaps someone more expert can ID the model, and connect the link to this topic (like hudsy wudsy?). Seller is 98 years old and I'm sure would appreciate any technical help you provide. Selling price is not listed, but understand he is thinking around $12K Canadian (US$9K).

I finally dared cut the holes for the 5 gauges for my CD8 Roadster. In addition to the gas and amp gauges I now have, expect a good temp gauge and partial speedo this week along with a "close" oil gauge. So drilled 2" holes for 4 gauges and 2&5/8" hole for speedo. At same time, tack welded a backup piece so drilling made gauge mounting panel at same time. Cleaned up holes with drum disk, and all goes together well. Still need dash lights (will enlarge holes to suit) and pull cables that go in the 4 bolt holes to hold panel against dash. Also have to reinforce edges of mounting panel to make it stiffer, will likely just roll edges 1/8" or so. One of photos shown car "as found" with its '33 Chevrolet dash installed in 1970's!! The steering wheel/controls BTW are from circa '28/'29 Mopar, perhaps PLymouth/Chrysler etc. I like the look in a Roadster, will do until I find a correct CD8 steering assembly, if ever, not worried!

I agree with K31, that bolt just doesn't look properly seated. If it is in tight, lock washer should be flat against seat and bolt flat against washer with no gap whatsoever for oil etc. Optical illusion? Should check that it is not bottomed out, if it is, it would seem tight but not be. I've done it!