Gunsmoke

Bringing forward, I have received a potentially positive PM from a chap, but nothing further, so still looking for whatever may be available. Thanks everyone

This rare part came with my recent barnfind '31 CD8 Roadster. Part #88123-1 is listed in parts book as rear fender step plate for 27/28 Model 52 Chrysler Roadster. Cast aluminum, I have no idea of its value, asking $40 plus shipping, or make offer.

Photos show draglink and pitman arm assembly from my '31 Chrysler CD8 project as found (top) and a draglink assembly from a '30 Dodge DC8 (bottom). My car has a DC8 steering column/box, but requires the longer/S-shaped Chrysler draglink. Although the Cyrysler assembly is larger diameter generally, the front ball and pitman ball are same diameter for both cars, i.e. 1" diameter. The pitman arm from the DC8 fits fine, but as shown, has a badly worn cast in place ball (now oval, nt removeable). The pitman that came with the car (not sure make/model?) has a perfect removeable ball, but the spline diameter for this arm is too large for the DC8 steering box sector gear spline (just slightly too large). So I am looking for (1) a good pitman arm similar to that shown in photo, with 1" dia ball, and with tapered hole to fit spline of about 1.1"dia as measured where back of pitman arm fits to the spline. Also looking for good front ball joint as shown (1" ball), as well as any good ball seats and springs. Seats measure about 1&1/16" diameter, and springs were originally about 1.25" longx1" diameter. By comparison, Dodge DC8 seats are 15/16" dia and springs about 7/8" dia. Let me know if you have anything, or can steer me to a parts supplier.

Restoring a '31 Chrysler CD8 Roadster for which original dash was removed mercilessly 40 +years ago. Have made a new dash and about to installl in car subject to cutting holes for the 5 gauges and miscellaneous other fittings. Recently found 2 original gauges, a NOS Fuel and a used but working Ammeter, and also usable guts for an oil pressure gauge as shown herein. I also include a photo of the fitments of an original dash, and the one I am making. If anyone has leads on a temp gauge, speedometer, good oil gauge, dash lights and pull cables (C-choke and H-heat riser), please let me know. Tough stuff to find. Cheers.

Photo shows various dash fittings for 1931 Chrysler CD8, need all of them including C&H pulls and 2 lights. Gauges mount from rear, smallert ones are about 1&7/8" diameter, Speedometer is about 2&7/8" diameter. Similar guages were used in some Plymouths of that period. Tough items to find, thanks for looking through your spares!

Based on location of holes close to front edge, they may well be Hudson. Seller measured them, not me so he could be off an inch or so in his measurement. Always hard to properly measure curved fenders. with wells. Anyway, they will not work for me, but I was trying to find a party that might need/want them.

Based on photos, most likely they are Essex/Hudson units, length of fenders may vary between the 6 and 8 cyl models, and the 4 bolt headlight bracket is indeed substantial. I'll pass photos of fenders on to a local Essex owner (he has Roadster and Sedan), and see if he is interested. Thanks again.

I see '33 Chevrolet Trucks had a V similar to these. Will need to do some further image checking, but if they are for a truck, that may explain the 4 bolt holes for a heavy duty light bar, with 2 bolts also going through the fender brace. Manuifactureers would not be as particular with truck fenders so a seam may be on those..

Sorry, k31, these are only photos seller sent me. I spent some time looking at many front fenders of that era, saw nothing with the pronounced inverted V on fender molding. Initially speculated 2 of the fender holes were for light bar, perhaps other 2 for a support brace to rad shell? Thanks for any further thoughts. Being a 2 piece fender I would think makes them likely pre 1930? Never thought about a truck, twin sidemounts would be unusual on a truck?

I am trying to identify year/make/model for these late 20's or early '30's front fenders. Measure 65" from front tip of fender to running board. Note ribs on wheel well (common to Hudson), 4 bolt holes in headlight cross bar area, and the unique upward V on front edge as well as seam in sheetmetal. Help me out if you can.

It might be helpful if you could provide a bit of english translation of the various information for the Chrysler Imperial Sedan, appears the columns include estimated value, location, closing date and current bid in Kronos?? converting K's to $'s would help. Also a brief history of the car/provenance might stimulate some interest here on the forum. Car appears to be largely original unrestored?

Thanks for tip VivW, checked out, nothing I need, but would likely buy if they were closer. Anyone else in North America with CD8 parts, let me know, such as gauges&dash lights, rear fenders, rad ornament (standard winged type), bumpers, rumble seat handle, stop/tail light and license plate bracket.

Can't help, but one great looking car!

Dodge Brothers Six Cylinder 140 Series Operation and Care Manual for sale, near mint unused condition. This is a first edition, first reprint, in exceptional condition, does not appear to have ever been used, no staining, dog ears, folds perfectly flat, came to me in a plastic sleeve, only evidence of 80+ years of wear are minor evidence of rubbing along edges of cover. From a 60 year old collection of automotive literature. Posting F/S here, if no interest, I will be posting on eBay. Price is $80 firm+shipping.

Thanks again for your insight CarbKing, this type of help/advice is often hard to find in the hobby Everything original from the springs down was missing when I found the car (CD8Roadster), including all the straight 8 drivetrain, brakes/wheels etc. While that is unfortunate, I feel it gives me some license to proceed using where possible straight 8 Mopar drivetrain (from '30 to '32) bits and bobs when I can find them at a fair price, augmented by newer stuff if necessary, such as for now, a better Carb. So now I have all the missing drivetrain gathered, as well as many other previously missing parts, some from DC8's, DG8's, CD8's, CD*'s CP's, etc. I think the entire front end is from a '33 Chrysler. The parts all fit together perfectly, and only a very knowledgeable observer would know otherwise. Hope no one takes offence.

The intake manifold came to me with a '31 Dodge DG8 Block (3" bore, 240CI)), is in perfect order and bolts up fine to my '31 Chrysler Deluxe CD8 engine (3.25" bore, 284CI). Early CD8's had 3" bore (1st series 240CI) and 3.125" bore (2nd series 260CI). The Carb which was recommended was on a '1969 Ford with about same CI displacement as my engine. The exhaust manifold is from a 1930 Dodge DC8 (2.875"bore, 220CI), also bolts up fine to engine and intake mani. As far as I know, all the Chrysler and Dodge straight 8 engines from 1930 forward had downdraft carburetors, typically Stromberg, and they had the butterfly valve heat riser setup shown (cable operated). Every year had slight differences of course, and some years had 2 or more changes to carb/linkage. This makes finding a full set of compatible and working pieces more of a challenge. As I search for a good Stromberg, I am expecting the carb I have will give much better and more reliable service. TMI? You said you wanted edification!

Following on CarbKing's suggestion above, I recently purchased a NOS Carter YF carb (circa '69 Ford 6 cyl 300CI truck engine) for my '31 Chrysler CD8 rebuild project. As can be seen, the carb is a perfect fit on the intake manifold (from a '31 DodgeDG8), Only tweaking needed was slight elongating of the mounting holes in carb base (from 2&5/8" centers to 2&7/8"). The Acellerator rod (A/rod) shown is from Dodge DC8 and would have clamped directly to throttle pivot rod (DC8's had a short riser on intake manifold). Since DG8 manifold does not have a riser, A/rod is about 5/8" higher than pivot of throttle as currently shown. I plan installing a 5/8" riser (phenolic or aluminum) to raise carb so throttle pivot is on axis with A/rod. Then I will make a suitable lever to fit on end of A/rod to bolt to the throttle lever shown on carb (I will remove the ball currently shown on throttle lever). I see "Dashman" lists 1/4" phenolic risers for this purpose, a couple of them stacked with suitable gaskets should work. Admittedly not original spec, but I am trying to get car to a mobile state to enjoy while I gather the various hard-to-find-expensive missing bits. Any suggestions welcome.

I'm not a "truck guy" (working on a '31 Chrysler CD8 Roadster presently), but I'm puzzled by this "grill guard" idea. Obviously not intended to protect rad core from flying rocks etc, so just what does it protect against. The headlights and fenders etc are exposed to potential damage from front end collision, and the hefty bumper protects lower 20" of vehicle. Unless the angled braces are bolted solidly to frame, the over sized guard would collapse toward rad shell if any significant force was applied. My guess is that it was a very cheap item to manufacture at the time and so owners would add one to prevent damage to rad should they run into someone else's tailgate, or an overhanging loading ramp etc. Maybe for early "off roading"? As I said, I'm not a truck guy!

The badges for '31 also had a slight curve (they are not flat on the back) to fit the profile of radiator face. I understand some later ones are flat, but it may be possible to put the curve in a flat one with some gentle effort. It is interesting that Chrysler used a variety of color combinations on this pattern over the years. Very few people I expect would know what color pattern is correct for a given year.

I have seen several on eBay over past 3 months, typically asking about $20-$40. Some people tell me they were not enameled at all, but natural bronze/copper type alloy, some say only the area around the lightning bolts was painted red. In any event, here is what came on my '31 CD8 Roadster barn find, has square mounting on back that fits in square hole in rad shell (so it will not rotate when installed), two square holed washers, and a screw with lock washer. Good luck.

Great starter for someone with time and money, plenty of each, and a love for Plym's, Very nice lines that year.

I personally don't know the business nor have had anything to do with them. I just think it is unfair to have a topic headed cavalierly like this one " so and so out of business?, and then have people "piling on". It appears from the initial thread that the guy was simply trying to find out if the business was still in operation, but the thread turned into a bashing exrercise. My last word on subject. Mr Moderator?

Wow, what a great starter for a unique car, hopefully perhaps a period correct runner. Imagine some farmboy around 1932 in the height of the depression trying to impress the girls!! $1000 sounds like a good deal.

I'm in full accord with C/T, this thread should be deleted as it is patently unfair to malign a business on a public forum on anecdotal issues related to one person's experience/service. As often stated, there are only a few businesses out there who try to service the old car hobby, a dying hobby in some circles, and we should be encouraging any that remain rather than openly criticizing them. We can't get what we need at Walmart, Canadian Tire or NAPA etc, so we need to respect and support as best we can the suppliers who are trying to make a buck meeting our quirky needs. So can a moderator please consider dropping this topic from sight for now?

I recall this subject a couple of years back on the VCCA (Chevy) site and recomendations to assemble the spokes and rim in their natural state, and then dip entire assembled unit in a pan of an oil mixture for a few days until wood is completely saturated. Theory seems to be that this will provide the longest lfe for the wood, create a real tight fit, and so on. I expect at some point when sufficient drying has taken place, wheels could then be painted if desired. While linseed oil or other similar product might result in differential discoloration of wood, it does keep wood from rotting/splitting etc. Wagon wheels treated like that often last 100 years without paint provided they are regularly reoiled. Once they are painted, if exposed to wet that gets trapped behind the paint, they begin to rot in as little as 5 years. So if painted/sealed, make sure they don't get exposed to excessive water.