Luv2Wrench

If you plan to wet sand and buff later, make sure you get plenty of clear on there. I think I did 4 coats and in the future will do 6 (2 a day, spaced out by a day out in the sun). Pay particular attention to edges as they're easy to miss. I usually shoot the difficult parts first and then the rest of the part.

This is going to be one sweet ride!

Great job Chris, looking good! The small light parts are a pain. I did what you did in adding "tails" to the parts so I could hold them while spraying. Later on I started tying the tails to the floor. I had issues with the gaps around the garage door as well. I was running positive pressure ventilation so it kept bugs and stuff out but it would end up sucking the paint back through the shop and back into the fan! You'll learn what to block off, not that big a deal.

It looks amazing! While I know taking photos, creating posts and uploading images is a pain, I would certainly like to see more of the car in the future if possible.

Let me know if you need help as these pesky computers are my day job.

Such high quality work, really amazing!

Not at all and I agree. Happy to hear more issues that people run across. Perhaps pictures and links to period correct radiator hoses and clamps would be helpful

There's an odd cylinder of sorts that separates the brake drum (which is also the drive sprocket) and the wheels. If I do peen anything it will be something that isn't going to be coming apart and will be done after I'm done with everything else. I do think I will get the car running/driving with modern fasteners and replace as I go.

Great response by everyone and I'm very appreciative of the information! My main focus is what it looks like as I'd like to restore this car such that one could look at it in great detail and learn from how it was put together. Fasteners are obviously a big part of that. Fortunately before I changed my major to Electrical Engineering I was going to be a Mechanical Engineer so I do have a pretty solid background for understanding the functional requirements of the fasteners. My goal is to get it to look correct while, obviously, not sacrificing safety. As an example of what I'm trying to accomplish, I will most likely peen the bolts that will not be removed (such as hub bolts). I'll be using modern thread lockers but I would peen them because that's how they did it then and I think maybe an important detail. Maybe, lol. We'll see when it comes down to that. The 1913 Metz Model 22 Roadster that I'm working on has some interesting fasteners and I'll do everything I can to either reuse where safe or make lookalike replacements elsewhere.

How does everyone feel about modern faster on Brass Era cars? Reusing 110 year old fasteners in safety critical areas is a no go for me so I'm wondering what others are doing when replacing ancient fasteners with modern fasteners. Grinding off grade markings? Using or not using lock washers? Peening the end of the bolt to keep nut on? Machining a matching replacement? Leave zinc finish or strip and do what? I'm leaning towards grinding off grade markings and machining duplicates where modern is way off. I'm not sure about peening/mangling bolts to ensure nuts stay on. This was done on all three of the Metz (parts) that I've seen. Any critical area was hammered to death to make sure nut stayed on. I might do this on the bolts securing the hubs and other areas I'm near 100% sure are not coming back apart. I have no idea what I'll do about the plating. Very interested in experience here. Anyone have a nice black finish that doesn't corrode? Is black oxide acceptable on an old car?

Bearings arrived today but unfortunately the seller sent the wrong item. It'll be next week before I can get that straightened out, very frustrating. That delay likely means my goal of a rolling chassis by end of July will not happen. I'm going out of town in 2 weeks so there just won't be enough time. I decided to use the rear leaf springs that came on the parts I bought a year or so ago. I'm confident that these are the original type springs and I'm not as confident about the ones that came with the original pile of parts. As such that meant a lot of media blasting and then more epoxy primer. It is the hot and humid days of summer that remind me off all the hard work I put into the air system to remove water. The transmission cooler I added a couple years ago that sits between the compressor head and the tank is particularly helpful. I've done a lot of media blasting lately and that system alone has pulled nearly half a gallon of water out over the last two days. Getting the water out before it even goes in the tank is a huge help. The bronze bushing also arrived and I got it in the lathe and parted off two pieces to go between the axle and the cone of the inner bearings. I'll need to clearance the inside of the hub a bit, then press the cup in and that will take care of the inner rear bearings. I think that the inner rears were going to be the most difficult so if I can get the seller to send me the right parts... I might have the bearings squared away soon. I'm going to go ahead and hang the axles from the frame rails tomorrow but that will be about as far as I can go without the bearings. I'll probably end up media blasting the rims and getting the wheels ready to restore.

"lint", that reminds me, you need tack rags. You'll be shocked how much those will pick up after you think the surface is clean. Light touch with the tack rags and get 3M if you can find them. Very light touch because if you press down you can get a bit of the sticky stuff on the surface. Another thing I remembered is that you can do a pass with no paint. This does two things. First it lets you see how you'll need to hold the gun to get in various areas, how far you can reach, etc, etc. Second the air from the gun will blow dust/trash off the surfaces. The most important thing to remember is that you've shot a ton of primer and the base/clear should actually go down easier so relax. Plus, any mistakes you make can be corrected.

Very well said @chistech With this car I know that I have a core and a bunch of parts that were cast off from other projects. These parts existed as a car at some point and that car was likely loved by its owner. I feel a sense of responsibility to restore these parts to a car that will last another 110 years and be loved again. I probably should get out of the shop more! 🤣

I shot a couple rounds of epoxy primer this weekend and I was reminded of the cleaning ritual. That's a key to a good paint job. After cleaning everything twice I hang it up to paint. Then comes the wax and grease remover. You really lay it on generously in small sections and wipe off in a single stroke. The wax and grease remover goes on and causes dirt/wax/grease to release and float. How you wipe it off is important. Needs to be one stroke off, then a clean rag and another stroke etc, etc. Need to wear gloves while doing that because your hands have oil on them. I go through a ton of small towels and wax and grease remover.

Here's the MG TD fender before I shot clear and then after clear and wet sanding and buffing. Base should be very smooth, no "fuzz".

I can't tell from pictures, but the base shouldn't be shiny at all. As long as you can't feel tiny balls of dried paint it is probably fine. Shoot clear over it and see how it look. If it is drying too quick, as @tenugent said, paint really early in the morning. In addition, you should be able to call the place you got your paint from and they'll recommend an additive to help the base flow. I'm not sure what kind of gun you have so I can't recommend pressure but I can tell you my DeVilbiss FLG4 670 worked best at 23psi for base and 27 psi for clear. If you have too high a pressure (and too low flow) the paint atomizes too well and can dry on the way to the surface.

Any updates on this wonderful project?

Managed to get all the chassis parts shot with 2 coats of epoxy primer. Typical summer storms made it a bit tricky as there is no roof on the external paint booth. I'll admit I was a tad emotional today seeing these parts painted. It has been a *really* long road to get to this point. Of course some of the delay was self imposed, lol. There's still a little of this and a little of that to get everything ready to be put together but I'm hoping that happens this weekend. I've ordered some Timken tapered roller bearings that should do the front and the outside of the rear. I already have some for the inner rear but they'll need a bit of fabrication to fit. I decided to go with modern roller bearings rather than the original ball bearings. Obviously they'll work better and last longer and while it was a bit costly, after deciding to dump a bunch of money in the engine and make it basically brand new, I figured why not. Just spend it all!!!

Thanks for the head up Chris!

I see that some of the lights (maybe linked together??) on the inside of the plastic wall. You might make sure those are sealed. Would be really bad if you got a spark in there with those paint fumes. Really bad. I have LED lights inside the booth but they are hardwired into the ceiling and sealed with silicon. They're technically not explosion proof but I'm satisfied with how I sealed them. It looks like your lights are linked. If so, I'd be very careful with those connections and really, really careful if there's a switch between them. If you're going to paint with those lights chained together you might think about wrapping the connections and switches with electrical tape. I don't know if that will eliminate the hazard but it might help. Make sure to never switch on/off with paint vapor in the booth as those switches could provide a spark.

Love your build and love you still have optimism even with Satan's personal V8. Speaking of the Devil, I do believe he has branched into the automotive parts industry and he's killing it.

We all need 12 bay garages.

If you don't mind hooks in your ceiling, you can put some hooks up every 8' or so and hand a thin board from that. Tape the plastic to the thin board and roll it once or twice. I put screw eyes all around so that I could hang various things inside the booth. I use 14 gauge solid (insulated) electrical wire to hang things with. It is very strong and easy to wrap around things to secure. When you're done you can take them down and fold them back up and use again. While copper is still expensive you can buy bulk rolls or take a 14-3 combo and remove the outer insulation. You might do a dry run or two. I know that the first time I shot in my booth I ran into all kinds of issues I didn't think about. Good luck!!

Thanks Chris, I try to work at least an hour at lunch time as I find the activity really helps with my workday. I also try to get at least 2 hours before I go to sleep because that helps with sleep. As such, during the week I get 3 to 4 hours a day though I would say on average I do that 4 out of the 5 days. On the weekend I probably get 8 hours each day. As I've heard many others in this forum say, I try to get something done each day and I find that really helps me be consistent. Planning has never been my strength but I've learned to get better at it as I realize just how important it is. I use some software that I use for my day job to help stay organized. The software forces me to fully break down tasks. While doing this I usually discover blockers (parts/materials/supplies/tools) I don't have or something I don't know how to do. As for "fast and efficiently" I think that is mostly because I'm doing things I've done before multiple times before. When I get to something I haven't done before I really slow down to a crawl.

Block and crankshaft are at machine shop. All cylinder will be sleeved standard (3.75"), crankshaft will be cleaned up and valves will be ground down to fit. I've talked to two engine builders and they both strongly endorsed the plug/cap method for the wrist pin. One noted that airplanes engines do this to eliminate the possibility of a clip coming out. As such, I'll be ordering Model T pistons next week. I spent a considerable amount of time cleaning the two halves of the crankcase. I'm using the original crankcase as the "new" one had a bunch of hairline cracks throughout. The original one has one issue on the upper side that I don't think will be that much of an issue. I plan to paint the insides with Glyptal which should further reduce the possibility of oil leaking out. I've soaked the two halves, then cleaned them, then soaked them, then media blasted the, then heated them, then cleaned them and the heated/cleaned again. The last time I wasn't seeing anything on the towels so I feel confident they are clean. Once the Glyptal arrives I'll clean them again and apply. They'll need to be baked as well and I have a setup for that. I went ahead and painted the outsides as they're easier to keep clean that way. It is high heat engine paint so I should be fine when I bake the Glyptal at 250 degrees. I laid out all the basic chassis pieces and will be getting them ready for epoxy primer tomorrow. The goal is to get them all painted and then assembled on a cart. Then I'll work out wheel bearings and assemble the hubs. Once that is completed I'll start putting the wheels together... .and finally, tires. With a bit of luck we should have a rolling chassis by the end of July and, hopefully, we can then build the engine and set it in place. Do note that there is a massive amount of work to be done to get the friction driveline system functional and I've allotted two months for that.